Help with CVA Kentucky rifle

[Steve Wagner]

When swabbing between shots try to keep the ramrod from going all of the way to the bottom. It will push fouling down and plug the flash channel, Both of my boy's CVA,s have this problem. Keeping the ramrod from bottoming out solves the problem.Also the stock CVA nipples are soft and will Flatten out at the top. You want a sharp edge. Since the nipples are soft yopu can easily "sharpen " them by putting them in a drill chuck and turning them against a tool stone.

This is probably very good advice for Pyro and BP. I am using t-7 and get a bit of a 'crud ring' so I swab after every shot, down to the breach. My patches are lightly oiled with avocado oil and and when I pull the rod out, I do it quickly so it pops like a cork coming out of the muzzle. I get the worst of it with the 1st pass and then flip the patch for the fast pull. This suction does a good job of clearing the nipple and flash channel of the crud that oldramrod is talking about. If you are not swabbing, follow his advice. When you do swab, try what I have mentioned.
I also swab after every shot for the consistency of a lightly lubed barrel I will have when hunting.
I mentioned in another thread that the Traditions metric replacement nipples have a smaller cap oriface [not the flash hole] than what comes from the factory. The O.D. is the same so I bore mine out to factory spec. to get more flame through the flash hole. This could help you as well if you are using those nipples. As mentioned , those nipples are soft so keep an eye on them for deformation. Also watch for flash hole erosion. When it gets too large you will end up on half **** after a shot. Or, if you're a dummy like me, it will get to full **** before you notice. I watch more carefully now. Good luck. SW

 

[ETipp]

I've not noticed any differences in the nipple I bought from TOTW for my Crockett rifle and the factory Traditions nipple, other than the factory nipple was smaller OD up higher. Perhaps it was made for #10 caps but I do know that on the new nipples I've ordered #11 caps fit like they are suppose to. I've not been able to detect any noticeable difference in accuracy between the two. I have not measured the small hole in either but they appear to be very close to the same size.

 

[Steve Wagner]

I've not noticed any differences in the nipple I bought from TOTW for my Crockett rifle and the factory Traditions nipple, other than the factory nipple was smaller OD up higher. Perhaps it was made for #10 caps but I do know that on the new nipples I've ordered #11 caps fit like they are suppose to. I've not been able to detect any noticeable difference in accuracy between the two. I have not measured the small hole in either but they appear to be very close to the same size.

Thanks ETipp. The TOTW #11's are probably the same size oriface. They seem to have their own supplier. The ones I am talking about are in a 2 pack from Traditions and labelled #11. #11 caps fit correctly.
A friend recently bought a Traditions rifle and grabbed the same #11, 2 pack and the difference between what came with his rifle and the replacement nipples was clearly the same. I am not saying I am sure this makes any difference in ignition, but it could. So, since the factory issued nipples have been flawless for me, I just bored out the replacements to match that opening and keep everything the same. Just guessing that the factory makes its own nipples [or has a different source] for the rifles they ship, and the replacements are outsourced.
I have also seen where nipples advertised as 'original replacements' for TC Hawken rifles come with different diameter flash holes [.028/032]. I bet these differences are not all that uncommon because of different contractors making them. This should be noted by the shooter if keeping loads consistent and watching for how long a nipple will last is important to him. SW

 

[ETipp]

Thanks ETipp. The TOTW #11's are probably the same size oriface. They seem to have their own supplier. The ones I am talking about are in a 2 pack from Traditions and labelled #11. #11 caps fit correctly.
A friend recently bought a Traditions rifle and grabbed the same #11, 2 pack and the difference between what came with his rifle and the replacement nipples was clearly the same. I am not saying I am sure this makes any difference in ignition, but it could. So, since the factory issued nipples have been flawless for me, I just bored out the replacements to match that opening and keep everything the same. Just guessing that the factory makes its own nipples [or has a different source] for the rifles they ship, and the replacements are outsourced.
I have also seen where nipples advertised as 'original replacements' for TC Hawken rifles come with different diameter flash holes [.028/032]. I bet these differences are not all that uncommon because of different contractors making them. This should be noted by the shooter if keeping loads consistent and watching for how long a nipple will last is important to him. SW

Indeed SW. I only became aware of possible nipple wear that could effect accuracy through this forum. Considering I do not have different size wire gages to test the size of hole with, I just buy new nipples and replace the older ones. However, unless I’m finding a decrease in accuracy, I don’t try to fix what isn’t broken.

 

[Bucks Co]

Hi - in my experience with a couple of CVA Kentucky's and helping others with theirs is the way they make the breech it leaves burrs in the flash channel that can pick up fouling and cause hang and mis-fires. My advice is to unscrew the drum and polish the insides - this will help. Whatever you do not attempt to draw the breech plug - it's harder than the barrel and any burrs will destroy the threads in the barrel (learnt the hard way). The best way to improve the breech is to run a 3/8" drill - on a very long extension into the face of the plug with the plug still in situ (with the drum out so you can check progress) just deep enough to clean the drum thread - then shorten the drum thread to just come to the inside of the new 'antechamber' you have created. Do run a proof charge after doing this. But in reality there's plenty of metal left to be safe. Ignition now in my last CVA is just about 100%. - after shooting a good hot-water clean seems to flush it clean - use WD40 or a good quality water dispersant gun oil. And all-ways Black Powder you will get much less corrosion than with Pyrodex - the 1981 Gun Digest has a very good article that covers this.

 

[Winterhawk]

One thing not mentioned is to fire off a couple of caps from the clean barrel, with the muzzle of the rifle close to a blade of grass. The grass will be blown around by the blast from the cap so you know that the channel is clear.
As has already been mentioned, make sure there are no fragments of cap stuck up in the hammer. Also, make sure the hammer hits the nipple square. They are made from malleable iron so can be judiciously formed. I once bought one of these very cheaply because it had failure to fire issues. When I got it home I saw that the hammer didn't line up with the nipple; took the hammer off, laid it on a piece of steel on the concrete driveway and whacked it with a hammer. That lined it up right and the rifle worked perfectly. Sold it back to the guy I bought it from and he didn't have any more problems after that.

 

[boberator]

I'm new to muzzleloading and recently refurbished a CVA Kentucky rifle...45 cal. I took it to the range and got off a few shots then the third I couldn't get to fire...and I tried after many caps. I read in here to pull the nipple and put in a small amount of powder...this worked! However, I'm still having some caps not fire and even when they do it doesn't always fire the load. I'm going to give it a good cleaning with water, patches and a light oil...is that the correct method? My other question is I'm using a 440 ball, .015 lubed patch and Pyrodex FFG. Should I be using BP instead of Pyrodex.

I’ve never tried Pyrodex since I’ve never run out of the Black Powder. If you sprinkle a few grains of ffffG powder in the top of the nipple you should get fire if the cap works. I always change my nipples out to musket caps so I get a big blast of fire in there.

 

[treg]

I took many of your recommendations and have a good cleaning routine set up... changed out the nipple and the rifle shoots first time every time now.
It's fun to shoot, looks great and shoot's pretty accurately...what more can you ask.
Thanks for all the advice in the forum!

 

[Sparkplug]

My Jukat did the same.

After loading g the powder I give it a few good links on the right (hammer) side of the stock to get a few specks of powder over underneath the cap. This fixed the misfires.

For the cap issue, after loading g the cap I ease the hammer down and push hard to seat it. Then pull back to half **** til ready to fire.

I usually shoot RS and have no issues whatsoever as long as I do those two things.