Help with dovetailing

[.36Rooster]

Hey guys, I've been a blackpowder shooter my whole life, and have gradually delved into fixing up and repairing guns, and have fixed a few and have one im working on now. Partly out of unwillingness to pay for a gunsmith, partly out of difficulty affording guns that aren't used, and a big proportion just out of enjoyment.

I am considering dovetailing the front sight and replacing the bead with a tiny brass dovetail.

I have a vice obviously. I was just wondering the best process with the minimum amount of tools required.

Right now I think I could manage to get one in, but it could be crooked, or there could be things I don't know about that I will have to learn the hard and expensive way. I dont want to ruin a barrel, obviously.

What is the simplest and effective way to do this?

It will be a while before I get started because I am still stumbling through another project. But would like to do some research and get familiar now so that when I get some free time in a couple weeks I might be able to look at doing it.

 

[.36Rooster]

I'm sure the process is the same for a rifle and a revolver, but if this makes a difference, it will be a colt navy that I am working on.

 

[ohio ramrod]

minimum amount of tools needed. 1 sharp triangler file. Clamp your barrel in a padded vice to hold it securely with out marking the barrel. Start filing the groove with the flat side , when you have reached desired depth. ( I like about .050 inch)Start angling the sides. I use a file that has one of the flats ground smooth so you can work the angle on the sides without going deeper. I also like a slight angle to the with of the sides (one or two degrees). Just take care to keep your file level and keep the grove perpendicular to the barrel. It probably would be a good idea to get a piece of soft steel to practice on. Filing in a dovetail really isn't that hard to do.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Lay out your lines carefully and measure several times. Calipers are almost mandatory to get it right I use a hack saw to cut a bunch of grooves ALMOST down to the line, but not quite. I stay well inside the outside edges and use the file to get to there. While not absolutely critical to have, it sure makes the job easier to have 1 side of your file a non-cutting side. With your small triangular file, take 1 side to the grinder to knock the teeth off. That will be a "safe" side. Once you start getting really close, go very slowly. You might even want to give the front edge of the sight a few strokes of the file to give it a liltle bit of a taper to help it get started. Once it gets started, you want to have to hammer it in to place so that it won't move on you. (Firm taps not big honking 2-handed ones.)

If it's a little proud to the flat of the barrel, resist the temptation to simply go deeper with e filing, because that will also widen the dovetail and make for a loose fit. Instead, if you can, thin the top of the sight base. Or, thin the bottom. You want it to stay tight. Once it's in place or really close, and you want it to stay put, you can (remove the sight again and mark the location for the sight center) tin the bottom of the sight, put a little flux in the dovetail, and heat until you get a good joint. That sucker will never move on you now.

 

[psushchyk]

When making dovetails, it is useful to have a set of needle files and handle. Also, make sure that use a triangle file with one flat ground smooth, as suggested by the prior post, as well as a brass headed hammer and brass drifts.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I misspoke in the prior post. Thinning the bottom of the sight will make for a looser fit too. Yes to brass or other soft material for drifts.

 

[Buckskinn]

While it may seem a daunting task, it is quite simple once you get going on it. I use a hack saw to remove the mass then the 2 sided triangle file for finishing. Make it a little tight and expand from there, much easier than other way around.