Henry Mauger

[Hoyt]

Well, I got something to keep me busy till spring gobbler season in the middle of March. Just got my Berk's Co., Henry Mauger stock and barrel from TOW and Fred Miller.
Thought I would post pictures for those who may be interested in taking this path vs a kit or scratch build.
I bought the barrel from TOW, a blank from Fred and he inletted the barrel, drilled the ramrod hole and pre-carved the blank using his Henry Mauger pattern. I'm really pleased with his work and like the pattern a lot. Although it looks like a lot of drop..it's identical to my Buck's Co..(I layed it on top and is same drop) the Mauger just has a Roman Nose..which is just the shape I wanted.
I got my work cut out for me now as I've never done the layout on trigger and lock inlet. don't know if I can think that good or not.

Mauger 1

Mauger 2

Mauger 3

Mauger 4

 

[LSU TIGER]

Inletting a lock anf trigger seems a daunting task, I agree. Lay the lock on the stock in position and note where the sear is and mark that spot. Check out Mike Brooks posts on building and go S L O W. It's easier to break it into small tasks.

 

[Hoyt]

LSU..where would I find a Reaves Goering No. 8 butt plate and No. 8 trigger guard? That's what Fred recommended for this stock.

 

[Zonie]

Just for starts, If the barrel is fully inletted to its finished location, you will know where the breech plug face will be. I like the touch hole to be about .170 in front of the breech plug face to allow of a 5/16 diameter threaded liner. (.312/2 thread radius + .015 clearance = .171). Mark this location on the stock.
If you are using a 1/4 diameter threaded liner, you can reduce this dimension to (.250/2 + .015 =.140).
The up/down location should place the flat of the pan right on the barrel centerline so draw a line on the stock which is in line with the center of the side barrel flat.
Now line up the center of the pan with the fore/aft line, and the top of the pan with the center of the flat line and your lockplate is positioned.
Stand back and eyeball the lock to make sure it isn't jacked up or down at the rear of the lockplate. when your happy, draw around the outside of the plate with a pencil.
You now know where to start inletting the lockplate.

Until this is done, you won't know where the sear will end up so don't worry about the trigger location until the lockplate location is established.

I recommend getting the lock fully inletted before you determine the sear arm location for the trigger.

 

[Hoyt]

Thanks Zonie..I'm going to try and take my time with this one and not get too impatient. I got till Sept. anyway.
I'm copying all the info...will use a White Lightn 5/16" liner, but don't have anything yet but stock and barrel. Haven't decided on which lock..but will be either Chamber's Round-Faced English or his Early Ketland. I'm sure I'll be asking plenty more questions.

 

[LSU TIGER]

From Reaves Goehring, of course! :rotf: His number contact info is:

Reaves Goehring Jr.
4436 Marietta Ave
Columbia, PA 17512-9606

phone# 717-684-2022

 

[Wehrmacht]

I think that Early Ketland would be just the thing for what you're doing. Now get off this darn computer and get busy :haha:.

Fred is a fine fellow.He and my good friend Dave Dodds are usually riding togather going to different things like the CLA,etc. Fred's inletted 8 0r 9 blanks for me in the last few years.

 

[LSU TIGER]

Which lock you use is partly determined by the size across the flats at the breech. In other words, you wouldn't want to use a small lock with a large barrel, or vise versa. If your barrel is 1 1/16 to 1 1/8 inches at the breech, most large locks will be fine. I'd stay away from a round faced lock, since that's indicative of earlier styles. Chamber's Golden Age lock is very good, as is the Deluxe Siler. The early Ketland is a good lock as well, and would be a nice departure from the usual Germanic locks.

 

[Hoyt]

From Reaves Goehring, of course! His number contact info is:

Where the pictures at? I don't know what #8 even looks like.

I think that Early Ketland would be just the thing for what you're doing. Now get off this darn computer and get busy .

Only thing I'm thinking about is that this gun is strictly for hunting..and that Round-Faced English is spose to throw a lot of sparks.

Yep..Fred kinda down played the stock..but from what I can tell there's a lot of curl in it and close together.

 

[LSU TIGER]

Hoyt, that makes two of us... I don't know what they look like either. This is how Reaves operates: You call and order a part. He ships it. If you like it, send payment. If you don't like it, send it back. I would call before sending it back to clarify the order. Reaves is very patient and will work with you until it's right. He has no catalog or website, sadly.

 

[Hoyt]

OK..thanks LSU..I'll just have to give him a call. It's hard to discuss this stuff without pictures when you know as little about it as I do.

 

[LSU TIGER]

The hardware that Fred mentioned is probably the closest to the original thats currently available. If you want to see what you're buying, first measure the stock where the buttplate will go about where you plan to cut it off. With those measurements, go to Track's website[url] www.trackofthewolf.com[/url] and browse the buttplates and trigger guards. Much of their stuff is wax cast, which will need less clean up than others.