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High Quality Hand Plane?

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ZigsawPuzzle

32 Cal
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Nov 13, 2023
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Location
Everett, WA
I need one badly. I've been using my dad's old Made in China $15 plane for several years and I'm about ready to chuck it into the ravine. Is something that'll last me a lifetime attainable under $100? Will I find something suitable for gunstocking? (still a bit new to the hobby so I'm not sure if there are planes that are worse or better for this). Antique hand planes are also of significant interest to me but I've had very rough luck finding anything resembling them for sale in the places I usually look. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!
 
I have a great big ole Stanley. It was my father's and no telling when or where he got it. I do have a couple of very small jack planes I use in decoy work though. Picked them up here and there.
 
Lie Nielsen in Maine has awesome planes , all USA made with almost a cult following - the are simply magnificent tools !
I like to use their Violin plane for stock work …a upgraded copy of the old Stanley 101
 

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If you can find an old Stanely that is in good shape (#4 or #3-1/2) and is reasonably priced pick it up. Otherwise I would get a Wood River plane say a #4. Look on the web for Rob Cosman - he knows his S%$#!
 
I've been restoring old woodworking and tools to user grade as a hobby for a bit over 15 years. The old saw "You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear" applies. I suppose you CAN fettle any plane to work well with enough time, effort and money. But it is a lot more satisfying, and quicker, to start with a well designed plane made by a respected manufacturer because the plane's geometry will be right and used parts are available.

My metal planes are mostly Stanley brand, but some Craftsman, Sergeant and Miller Falls are in the stable. The main point is the very best of them are 90-110 years old. None are newer than early WWII manufacture. My favorite bench plane is the Stanley Type 11. I think it has the best frog ever designed. Best Stanley types were 10-15. Earlier were quite good, but the frog adjustment was introduced on Type 10.

Excellent new planes are made by Lee Valley (Veritas brand) and Lie Nielsen. I own and use some of these too. They are as good as or better than the old Stanley planes, but a lot more $$$. I am giving myself the Lee Valley scraper plane (updated Stanley #112 design) for Christmas. Roland Johnson has written excellent restoration articles for 20 years for Fine Woodworking and other mags. Google him.

Here are a couple helpful links to learn about the many Stanley planes and to decipher the 20+ bench plane types. Finally, I'm showing off with older pics of some of my Stanleys, some restored, some not, but most at least flattened and sharpened and ready to go to work.

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface (Bible of Stanley handplanes)
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/pdatechart.pdf

Size 2-4 on right. Specialty planes and scrapers on left. It can be a slippery slope. I already had packed all the wooden planes before thinking of taking photos. Bubble wrap in background left are three different sizes of 'match' planes for cutting matching tongues and grooves.
1700157822253.jpeg


4 #5, 1 #5-1/2, 2 #6, 4 #7 and a #8 with squaring guide in foreground. That #8 came with a story:

The original owner, a carpenter from Bryan, Texas died in 1965. His daughter closed his shop and nobody entered it until after that daughter died. The granddaughter inherited and put his workshop contents up for auction in 2016.

When I got all my purchases home, I took a few light shavings, the first from that plane in 50 years. It was razor sharp. I could see through the shavings. That old carpenter had honed it to perfection before hanging it up the last time. Love this plane, and I am thrilled to have it.
1700158061018.jpeg
 
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Lie Nielsen and Veritas make fine hand planes but they also command a high price. If you are a master class craftsman then by all means get one of either brands. I have some Veritas planes and do like them but I also have some WoodRiver planes and find them to be a bargain. Here are two - the small one is a WoodRiver #1 and the larger one is a Veritas small bevel-up smooth plane. You WILL need to sharpen and hone the blade on all of them no matter how much you pay for the plane;):rolleyes:
P1030825.JPGP1030827.JPG
 
I've been restoring old woodworking and tools to user grade as a hobby for a bit over 15 years. The old saw "You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear" applies. I suppose you CAN fettle any plane to work well with enough time, effort and money. But it is a lot more satisfying, and quicker, to start with a well designed plane made by a respected manufacturer because the plane's geometry will be right and used parts are available.

My metal planes are mostly Stanley brand, but some Craftsman, Sergeant and Miller Falls are in the stable. The main point is the very best of them are 90-110 years old. None are newer than early WWII manufacture. My favorite bench plane is the Stanley Type 11. I think it has the best frog ever designed. Best Stanley types were 10-15. Earlier were quite good, but the frog adjustment was introduced on Type 10.

Excellent new planes are made by Lee Valley (Veritas brand) and Lie Nielsen. I own and use some of these too. They are as good as or better than the old Stanley planes, but a lot more $$$. I am giving myself the Lee Valley scraper plane (updated Stanley #112 design) for Christmas. Roland Johnson has written excellent restoration articles for 20 years for Fine Woodworking and other mags. Google him.

Here are a couple helpful links to learn about the many Stanley planes and to decipher the 20+ bench plane types. Finally, I'm showing off with older pics of some of my Stanleys, some restored, some not, but most at least flattened and sharpened and ready to go to work.

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface (Bible of Stanley handplanes)
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/wp-content/uploads/pdatechart.pdf

Size 2-4 on right. Specialty planes and scrapers on left. It can be a slippery slope. I already had packed all the wooden planes before thinking of taking photos. Bubble wrap in background left are three different sizes of 'match' planes for cutting matching tongues and grooves.
View attachment 269610

4 #5, 1 #5-1/2, 2 #6, 4 #7 and a #8 with squaring guide in foreground. That #8 came with a story:

The original owner, a carpenter from Bryan, Texas died in 1965. His daughter closed his shop and nobody entered it until after that daughter died. The granddaughter inherited and put his workshop contents up for auction in 2016.

When I got all my purchases home, I took a few light shavings, the first from that plane in 50 years. It was razor sharp. I could see through the shavings. That old carpenter had honed it to perfection before hanging it up the last time. Love this plane, and I am thrilled to have it.
View attachment 269611
I dont know if all those blades are retracted but I always laid planes on its side so as not to maybe chip the blades. once adjusted I like to leave them that way
 
I have a couple of spoke shaves one curved and one straight, they work great if you can find some. The most important thing about a plane or any wood cutting tool is keeping it sharp.
Which do you find most useful, the flat or curved? What part of a build do you find each to be the most useful? Was just looking at spokeshaves but was unsure if 1 would be better than the other for building. Thanks
 
Which do you find most useful, the flat or curved? What part of a build do you find each to be the most useful? Was just looking at spokeshaves but was unsure if 1 would be better than the other for building. Thanks
I think the flat, it can be used on a curve or flat and the curved cannot. The flat is also much easier to sharpen. If your only to have one definitely the flat.
Phil
 
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