(Ho-Humm) Another Browning Question.......

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bioprof

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I was thinking about antiquing the barrel on the Bedford rifle I'm finishing, but after putting several coats of LMF browning solution, it has formed such a nice, even brown that I don't have the heart to let it keep working until it's pitted and then sand it off. I'm thinking of pouring boiling water over it when I'm done to turn it blue/black, but am wondering if you can put more coats of browning solution over it to turn it back to brown if I don't like it. Anyone ever tried this?
 
I did the boiling water treatment on a pistol barrel I browned with LMF, and it turned a deep rich chocolate brown, very nice when oiled.
 
IMO, the only way to go back is to remove the black coating, either by using a rust remover or sandpaper.

If you use boiling water be sure to have lots of it. You will need to apply several washes to the barrel to get a uniform color.
Oh, it must be done before oiling the brown rust. If you have oiled it, IMO, it's too late to change it. :hmm:
 
Would steam from a kettle work? Or do you need something a little more powerful? :hmm:
 
During my first use of LMF I was scrubbing with scotchbrite dipped in hot water and accidently got a dark black color on the triggers and rear sight.However the next day they were as brown as the rest of the steel pieces. Does it require a certain amount of time in hot water to make this permanent? I'm thinking about trying it on my current project and would like to know any tricks involved.
Bill
 
It doesn't matter. It is not a one time deal you can't easily change. If doesn't turn out how you like it, all ya have to do is take some 220 then 320 paper & take the browning off & redo it.

It takes aprox. 24 hrs to brown a barrel & all the parts & a few hrs. of presanding. So what. If ya don't like it, strip it & try another method.

Find someone with a glass bead blaster & you will have it to bare metal in 5 min.

Another option is to buy the small cheap Harbor Freight glass bead tabletop box & cut a hole in the door & put a piece of innertube over the hole, then cut a lil hole in the rubber & stick the barrel in thru the tight hole so it stretches the rubber tight over the barrel, then do 1/2 of the barrel, reverse the barrel & do the other half. Then make a small cover plate to bolt over the hole & use the innertube piece as a gasket to seal off the plate.

Now ya have a small glass bead machine that you will find yourself using LOTS of times & you also have a good excuse to buy it now.

If ya don't want to do testing on the barrel, do some test runs on a new piece of angle iron or some round stock. I have browned them smooth, rough, pitted, light brown, med. brown, dark brown, black, blueblack, etc. Play with it, redo it, try dif methods, etc. I have taken barrels that I have done 20 + years ago & just rebrwoned them because I wanted a different look.


:thumbsup:
 
A clarification please. After you have browned the barrel, and before you oil it, you then do the boiling water treatment. Will the finish turn a blue/black or will it turn a deep chocolate brown as described on the pistol barrel above. I have a kit rifle that I'm just about to finish the stock and brown the hardware but I want a deep dark brown and I have the LMF solution to do it with. Thanks.
 
In previous posts I've always read that the boiling water/steam will turn it black. It wasn't until the recent posts that I've read it is a deep brown.

I can tell you from experience that if you want the deep chocolate brown keep browning it without the boiling water. Also remember when you finally add oil it is going to get a couple of shades darker just from the oil.
 
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