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Hobby Lobby Leather Quality?

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Black_Feather

62 Cal.
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Can anyone attest to the quality of hobby lobby leather? Was noticing they had alot of suede rolls (10sq ft) for $16.99 and some deals on top grain rolls (13 sq ft) for $29.99. Anyone ever bought this stuff got any insight on it? Thanks, was thinkking of making some shot bags and possibles bags. Here is the links to what I was looking at : Brown Full Grain , Brown Suede Roll , and Brown Cowhide Leather.
 
I've been using Hobby Lobby leather to make shooting bags and various ML accessories. The leather is mostly suede and probably not the best choice for what I am doing. I haven't been able to find heavier leather there that come in pieces big enough for most projects.
Hobby Lobby has sale on leather and leather tools very frequently, often40-50% off. It pays to watch for the sales. Lately, at the store I buy from the selection of leather has been pretty poor.
 
Thanks guys, I ended up finding a huge side of thick oil tanned cowhide on eBay for a decent price, so here’s hoping to that holding up :)
 
I have only bought and used a "grab bag" of leather from HL, but am well satisfied with the leather, quantity, and assortment in it. I did look over the several bags they had at the time to find one that looked like it suited my needs, they were all very different. In contrast, I have been disappointed with grab bags I bought from online sources.
 
Can anyone attest to the quality of hobby lobby leather? Was noticing they had alot of suede rolls (10sq ft) for $16.99 and some deals on top grain rolls (13 sq ft) for $29.99. Anyone ever bought this stuff got any insight on it? Thanks, was thinkking of making some shot bags and possibles bags. Here is the links to what I was looking at : Brown Full Grain , Brown Suede Roll , and Brown Cowhide Leather.
Thanks guys, I ended up finding a huge side of thick oil tanned cowhide on eBay for a decent price, so here’s hoping to that holding up :)
I haven’t used Hobby Lobby leather but some of what I’ve seen at my local store would make nice small coin bags and similar things.
Springfield Leather is great, give them a look (Natural | Springfield Leather Co. lso )
 
Suede is chrome tanned (chromium sulphate salts), which they use in the tanning process. This process was invented in the late 1850s, and patented in the 1880s, and didn't become popular until the 1920s. The large slitting machines used for splitting the hides wasn't invented until the mid 19th century. You also have to watch out when using steel or iron hardware because the salts in the leather will easily cause rust, more so than vegetable tanned leather. I've known custom knife makers who have used chrome tanned leather to make knife sheaths only to later realize that the scabbard was rusting the blade and several knives were pitted badly. I would say that for anything period prior to the late 1800s, vegetable or brain tanned leather was what was most commonly used, also some leathers were piss tanned.
 
Can anyone attest to the quality of hobby lobby leather? Was noticing they had alot of suede rolls (10sq ft) for $16.99 and some deals on top grain rolls (13 sq ft) for $29.99. Anyone ever bought this stuff got any insight on it? Thanks, was thinkking of making some shot bags and possibles bags. Here is the links to what I was looking at : Brown Full Grain , Brown Suede Roll , and Brown Cowhide Leather.
I have never bought HL leather….but I have a fair amount from Tandy leather store….used Kangaroo hide for making Falconry tack…jessis,leashes,hoods,etc….very good quality leather….!!
 
Can anyone attest to the quality of hobby lobby leather? Was noticing they had alot of suede rolls (10sq ft) for $16.99 and some deals on top grain rolls (13 sq ft) for $29.99. Anyone ever bought this stuff got any insight on it? Thanks, was thinkking of making some shot bags and possibles bags. Here is the links to what I was looking at : Brown Full Grain , Brown Suede Roll , and Brown Cowhide Leather.
Check out Tandy Leather.
 
I have used the goat skins for pouches and flint wallets. It's thin but strong. FB_IMG_1574997204223.jpg
 
For quality leather and supplies here are some good sources. Both Zack White and Panhandle leather sell vegetable tanned horse butt strips, which make some of the best knife scabbards. Horse hide is dense and hard to cut, but molds well and wears hard. From time to time, Panhandle Leather have thick elk hides, but you may have to call for availability since they are not currently listed on their site. I've bought several hides within the past year and each hide measured over 26 sqft and cost was about $90 per hide. Weaver has just about anything you need, and a good line of tools for the price. Ron's Tools make some of the best edgers and creasers that I have found, high quality, and easy to sharpen. I have some of his custom tools that I've continued to use on a daily basis for over thirty years.

Springfield Leather

Weaver Leather

Zack White Leather

Panhandle Leather

Ron's Tools
 
Sorry it took so long to get these pics taken. I took them to use in this and another topic...
Hobby Lobby goatskin "tooling leather."
20230225_163952.jpg
20230225_163954.jpg
20230225_164133.jpg
20230225_170107.jpg

I took the caliper pic because the other thread has something to do with leather weight and the weight is not listed on the product.
Also,,, I bought two rolls on sale, didn't pay that price.
The bag I made from it has become my favorite and is holding up well. The only damage is from my own shortsightedness, the flap button had slightly sharp edges and started a cut through the edge of the button hole. This cut started to tear further (something I don't think veg tan cow, even this thin, would do), but this was easily fixed with some hemp thread and a button-hole stitch.
20210612_194229.jpg

20210227_184136.jpg

20210227_184340.jpg


I also have a topic about the bag I made of this same design that was meant as an exercise and test of what can be done with just craft store (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Joanne's fabrics) stuff.
20210215_075547.jpg


20200212_201615.jpg

20210215_075819.jpg


This was made with cheap split leather sold in roughly 8"×10" rectangles at Hobby Lobby, a button and blue fabric tape from Joanne's, the strap buckle from either Joanne's or Michael's, maybe from Hobby Lobby, don't remember on that one.
I also don't remember what I used for thread. I probably went outside parameters and used my usual hemp thread as I don't like synthetic thread and that's mostly what box stores carry.
So serviceable stuff cam be made from box store leather.
Is it the best? No.
Is it the most historically correct? No.
Does it work? Yes.
 
Sorry it took so long to get these pics taken. I took them to use in this and another topic...
Hobby Lobby goatskin "tooling leather."
View attachment 201531View attachment 201532View attachment 201533View attachment 201534
I took the caliper pic because the other thread has something to do with leather weight and the weight is not listed on the product.
Also,,, I bought two rolls on sale, didn't pay that price.
The bag I made from it has become my favorite and is holding up well. The only damage is from my own shortsightedness, the flap button had slightly sharp edges and started a cut through the edge of the button hole. This cut started to tear further (something I don't think veg tan cow, even this thin, would do), but this was easily fixed with some hemp thread and a button-hole stitch.
View attachment 201535
View attachment 201536
View attachment 201537

I also have a topic about the bag I made of this same design that was meant as an exercise and test of what can be done with just craft store (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Joanne's fabrics) stuff.
View attachment 201538

View attachment 201540
View attachment 201543

This was made with cheap split leather sold in roughly 8"×10" rectangles at Hobby Lobby, a button and blue fabric tape from Joanne's, the strap buckle from either Joanne's or Michael's, maybe from Hobby Lobby, don't remember on that one.
I also don't remember what I used for thread. I probably went outside parameters and used my usual hemp thread as I don't like synthetic thread and that's mostly what box stores carry.
So serviceable stuff cam be made from box store leather.
Is it the best? No.
Is it the most historically correct? No.
Does it work? Yes.
Both bags look great, but the goatskin bag is Outstanding! I see nothing wrong with the goatskin, looks like some premium grade leather, nice grain finish and there is no nap on the flesh side. :thumb:
 
Sorry it took so long to get these pics taken. I took them to use in this and another topic...
Hobby Lobby goatskin "tooling leather."
View attachment 201531View attachment 201532View attachment 201533View attachment 201534
I took the caliper pic because the other thread has something to do with leather weight and the weight is not listed on the product.
Also,,, I bought two rolls on sale, didn't pay that price.
The bag I made from it has become my favorite and is holding up well. The only damage is from my own shortsightedness, the flap button had slightly sharp edges and started a cut through the edge of the button hole. This cut started to tear further (something I don't think veg tan cow, even this thin, would do), but this was easily fixed with some hemp thread and a button-hole stitch.
View attachment 201535
View attachment 201536
View attachment 201537

I also have a topic about the bag I made of this same design that was meant as an exercise and test of what can be done with just craft store (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Joanne's fabrics) stuff.
View attachment 201538

View attachment 201540
View attachment 201543

This was made with cheap split leather sold in roughly 8"×10" rectangles at Hobby Lobby, a button and blue fabric tape from Joanne's, the strap buckle from either Joanne's or Michael's, maybe from Hobby Lobby, don't remember on that one.
I also don't remember what I used for thread. I probably went outside parameters and used my usual hemp thread as I don't like synthetic thread and that's mostly what box stores carry.
So serviceable stuff cam be made from box store leather.
Is it the best? No.
Is it the most historically correct? No.
Does it work? Yes.
Thanks, that was extremely helpful. Ill have to keep that in mind in the future. Really like that first bag, that fringe mustve taken forever to cut. For now, I was able to find some really good oil tanned cowhide on ebay that a guy was basically giving away at cheaper prices than hobby lobby just to clear out some space, so hopefully I got a deal but I will be making my way to hobby lobby soon and Ill probably spend too much money there anyways haha. As far as thread I totally agree with you, I have some brown linen thread from crazy crow when I got to make my bag. Ill probably buy some waxed hemp in the future tho.
 
Thanks, that was extremely helpful. Ill have to keep that in mind in the future. Really like that first bag, that fringe mustve taken forever to cut. For now, I was able to find some really good oil tanned cowhide on ebay that a guy was basically giving away at cheaper prices than hobby lobby just to clear out some space, so hopefully I got a deal but I will be making my way to hobby lobby soon and Ill probably spend too much money there anyways haha. As far as thread I totally agree with you, I have some brown linen thread from crazy crow when I got to make my bag. Ill probably buy some waxed hemp in the future tho.
Not all hemp thread is equal. Some of it is very rough amd lumpy.
I use the Carriage Brand hemp thread from Tandy and like it a lot.
https://tandyleather.com/products/c...78787&pr_ref_pid=4503288217731&pr_seq=uniformIt comes in two thickness options and several colors
https://tandyleather.com/products/carriage-hand-sewing-thread-085-mm-35-yards
I have a side of Kodiac oil finished cow leather. It is incredibly flexible for such thick leather, but, also very heavy and the combined actual weight and flexibility can make it hard to work with.

Be sure to check out some of the saddle stitch videos that @Artificer has linked to in the past.
If you don't have a pricking iron or overstitch wheel to lay out your stitch spacing, you can also use a set of dividers, or some other spacing device. I used a wooden coffee stirring stick to get my spacing between stitches when I sewed the tape binding around the edge of my hat...
20200419_203036.jpg

You can kind of see the stick under the hat. Each stitch is the width of the stick, there is a line drawn across the stick that when held even with the edge of the hat shows me how far from that edge the line of stitch goes (royal pain in the ___, I hate sewing fabric)

Go slow. Keep your awl sharp, really, really sharp.

I have full topics on each of these projects that might include more helpful pictures.
 

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