No I just punched a single layer. Might just be kinda thin. The cap itself is louder than a regular #11 cci and I only had one hang fire.The red is normal are the can layers doubled?
Some stay and some blow apart. I think some are hotter than others.Out of curiosity... do the caps stay on the nipples or do they blow apart like the standard cap?
They're blown apart pretty much, I pick my off if they don't fall off after the next cylinder is brought into battery. Otherwise they'll fall into the works. But I'm in no hurry, for me it's a leisurely day. I hear if you double up on the cap ply they'll stay together, even to the extent that you can reload them.Out of curiosity... do the caps stay on the nipples or do they blow apart like the standard cap?
Yeah the first ones I made just fizzled out in my 50 cal pistol unloaded here at the house. Takes some time to get them right it seems.I have the same with mine, if you don't use enough of the priming compound you won't get ignition.
The guy that makes the punch and the compound is in Olathe colorado just north of me and shipping was pretty quick. I used 6 oz acetone and and one 1 oz duco cement that was suggested on this forum and worked better than acetone alone.I guess I am going to have to give that a try!
I am frugal (ok, cheap) but not that cheap LOLThey're blown apart pretty much, I pick my off if they don't fall off after the next cylinder is brought into battery. Otherwise they'll fall into the works. But I'm in no hurry, for me it's a leisurely day. I hear if you double up on the cap ply they'll stay together, even to the extent that you can reload them.
Yes, but frugal isn't the issue when it's all you can get.I am frugal (ok, cheap) but not that cheap LOL
Simplify your method by super gluing a thin wire handle to a spent small pistol primer with the anvil removed. This dipper will deliver the right amount of compound to caps placed in drilled holes on a 1/8” thick plastic strip. Simple and fast.Get one of the cups the doctor uses on his light when he looks into your ears, the opening on the end is just a tad under a #11 cap size. That's what I use as a funnel with a small, (very small, mine is a metal novelty item) measuring spoon. I think the size says a skoach, or something, one spoon and it's where it should be in the cap. Then I use a straightened paperclip, large, to extract the funnel by putting it through the funnel and bottoming out on the bottom of the cap to hold the cap while I pull the funnel out of the cap.
Yes much tedious work, but you're not behooving to a store to maybe get them in. Or cussing because you don't have any. Oh yeah, almost forgot, magnifying glasses are handy.
Just an idea, I bought a couple extra scoops and trimmed one down to get just the right amount of mixture in the cap. As far as the instructions are concerned, I go a little "off the reservation". I stamp out the caps with two sheets of beer can, I think they work much better that way. I use my trimmed down scoop to fill the cap shells, then use a dropper bottle with rubbing alcohol and give each cap two drops to completely wet the mixture, I dont use a tamping tool to mix and mush the mixture down. The caps are ready to use inside of 24 hours. Your drying time may vary as I live in a very dry place (Sonoran Desert foothills). With the cut down scooper, your caps will have consistency. That reddish crud looks bad, but its a small price to pay for an inexpensive and readily available cap supply. The holes could also be due to the mainspring being heavy also.Some stay and some blow apart. I think some are hotter than others.
Enter your email address to join: