Honey maple stain

[labrat]

Finished the staining and have a few questions. This picture was taken in the early morning sun and it shows to be very light and golden. Actually its darker and I was going to ask you how I can remove some of the darkness. I put the first coat on too heavy not remembering to put on light layers first or delute, brain freeze! Anyways can I rub it back or is this perminant? This is only one coat and I don't want to darken it any more. Also with permalyn not available what is an easy alternative. Thanks

 

[CuNosecap]

That looks great. The oil top coat will darken it some.
If you want it lighter, use 400 grit paper or 0000 steel wool and you can take it back a bit. Careful with the paper as you will tend to take more off the high places like around comb and lock. If you do want it super light, us a dilute stain solution and go at it in multiple coats till you come to your desired color. Another alternative is white scotchbrite pads.
I just used the honey maple today as both a bottom and top coat before and after aqua fortis and heat. This brought out some nice yellow stripping well contrasted with the AF strips. But not the light color you are after. Best of luck.

 

[wiscoaster]

It is possible to use aqua fortis over the top of honey maple to bring out the curl. Just based on your pics it looks like you've got some nice curl there.

 

[skwerleater]

If the stain is alcohol based, you can wet a rag with some rubbing alcohol and wipe down the stock. It will pick up some of the color.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

You can apply a heavy coat of oil and rub it back. I use Maroon or Gray (very fine, ultra fine) scotch-brite. After you rub it back wipe it off. This can produce light and dark contrasting areas creating an aged look. If you want a uniform look you should test this method and some of the other recommended methods on some scrap first.

Tried and True oil Varnish is very easy to work with however you need sunlight and heat to get it to dry and cure between coats.
Jim Chambers gunstock oil is excellent and dries fairly quickly.

Jim Kibler shows how to use Tried and True oil and rub it back in this video. This is a very dark color but it will give you the idea:

 

[labrat]

Thank you for your help full thoughts. I tried a test on the stained wood of the barrel cavity and found that most everything I did resulted in a darker stock unless I rub the stain down to almost nothing. To avoid more work I decided to keep what I have. Don't get me wrong I love the light stain I'm just upset I didn't follow the instructions I was given to slowly apply the stain. I just ordered Tried & True for my finish. Calif. is still in the high 90, too much sun so I believe it will work well. Thanks again and I will post my finishing pictures....Labrat

 

[oldwood]

Back in the 1980's , John Bivins wrots an article with pic's about a blond stained rifle he had built. Must have been in Muzzle Blasts , unsure.

 

[wiscoaster]

.... I will post my finishing pictures....Labrat

Looking forward to those. Cheers!!

 

[reddogge]

Back in the 1980's , John Bivins wrots an article with pic's about a blond stained rifle he had built. Must have been in Muzzle Blasts , unsure.

John Bivins-immensly talented. Blond stocks-well, not a fan.

 

[labrat]

This rifle will display nicely with my dark Colonial I built a couple of years back. I like the blond color and I just wanted to be a little different as I see that most flintlocks are dark. My flintlocks are more for display with very little firing. I hope to interest my kids & grand kids to go out and shoot with me. This picture is with 2 coats of Tried & True. One more and I will be finished. 3 days of drying time.........Labrat