How accurate would this be ?

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VEARL

45 Cal.
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Just wondering. Looks to me to be full of variables.......
"PLACE A TARGET 13 YARDS AWAY. GET A GOOD REST, AIM AT THE BULL'S-EYE AND NUDGE THE TRIGGER. IF THE BULLET IS OFF THE MARK, ADJUST YOUR SIGHTS AND SHOOT AGAIN. ONCE YOU ARE TAKING OUT THE X IN THE CENTER OF THE BULL'S-EYE, YOU NOW HAVE A RIFLE, WHICH WILL BE DEAD-ON AT ABOUT 75 YDS, JUST A TAD LOW AT 100 YDS AND A SMIDGEN HIGH AT 50 YDS.
GO AHEAD AND FIRE A FEW SHOTS AT ALL OF THESE RANGES TO VERIFY, BUT I'VE NEVER HAD THE 13-YD PROVED WRONG."
GARY CLANCY.
 
Got this off of a web site.
Think I might try this with my 58 Cal rifle. Needs to be sighted in better any way. Will post my results.
Still skeptical about it though.
 
I'm skeptical myself. If 13 yards is the first crossing of the line of sight, then it will be just luck. That point (is it called Point Blank?) will be different for varying speeds and weights of projectiles, not 13 yards for every load.

I suppose you could look up the trajectory for the caliber you're using, but that will only be accurate if you have a chronograph to measure the actual speed of the ball. I think the best way to find that cross-over spot would be to work backwards, sight it in at your desired range, then set up a target closer to you to find where the ball hits in the same place.

Besides, I don't anything works as well as sighting in at the actual desired range, no guessing there. Bill
 
Yup,

Its how we sight them round here, 13 yds is typical tie breaker distance. Shooting a .50 with 60gr 3f and a 13yd zero I am on at 75yds and 5" low at 100yds, practice your range estimations and you have a deadly combination there.

It does work.
 
Howdy!

IMHO, it is a good rule of thumb.
Your particular rifle and load might be slightly different, and some adjustments need be. But this will get you in the ball park for sure.
 
snowdragon said:
I'm skeptical myself. If 13 yards is the first crossing of the line of sight, then it will be just luck. That point (is it called Point Blank?) will be different for varying speeds and weights of projectiles, not 13 yards for every load.
Bill

My Dad shoots the same rifle as mine except that his is cap lock and he shoots 70gr 3f, with a 13yd zero he is high at 75yds and on at 100yds, Of course we use a 6 o'clock hold

It is far easier to zero at 13 yds then it is 100yds, the shorter range eliminates alot of variables.
 
I have heard of doing this with a .22lr at twelve yards. Wonder if the trajectories are similar?
 
Sounds like you'd be accurate enough at 13 yards. For whatever good that is. Treestand hunting maybe?

I like a minimum of 50 yards to tell me how I'm shooting. My "normal" range is 85 or 100 yards. I zero my iron sights at 85 yards.
 
Well I would not do a lot of fileing yet unless your a one load does it all kind of guy. I do mine at 50 first so that I can do load development at the same time. Such as powder charge and patch thickness and ball diameter.
I look for two loads one up to 50 yards target load and then a hunting load. I sight in for a 6 oclock hold at 50 yards with the accuracy load and then check where it shoots at 25 yards and 100. I am currently going thru this with my new to me 58. I have it centered and just a hair at 50. I have not shot it yet at 100 but I have read that light loads are rather loopy. Geo. T.
 
I have used the 13 yard sighting in method for many years. IT WORKS!
If you are dead on at 13 yds. you are on paper at 50 - 100 yards.
All you have to do is fine tune your rifle.
It saves a lot of powder and walking back & forth to check target.
Most of us can "still" see at 13 yards.
Fred
 
It saves a lot of powder and walking back & forth to check target.
Most of us can "still" see at 13 yards.
Fred[/quote]

They sell spotting scopes to limit the amount of walking down range one has to do! Those who are serious about shooting have them.
 
well, it sounds just goofy enough to be plausible, and it would likely get you 'on paper,' depending upon, of course, how big your paper is. last time i zero-ed a rifle, i started at 50 yards with a big sheet of butcher paper (about 20x20 inches) and a dot in the middle for an aiming point. this worked OK for me.

just one guy's opinion...
 
Vearl said:
Just wondering. Looks to me to be full of variables.......
"PLACE A TARGET 13 YARDS AWAY. GET A GOOD REST, AIM AT THE BULL'S-EYE AND NUDGE THE TRIGGER. IF THE BULLET IS OFF THE MARK, ADJUST YOUR SIGHTS AND SHOOT AGAIN. ONCE YOU ARE TAKING OUT THE X IN THE CENTER OF THE BULL'S-EYE, YOU NOW HAVE A RIFLE, WHICH WILL BE DEAD-ON AT ABOUT 75 YDS, JUST A TAD LOW AT 100 YDS AND A SMIDGEN HIGH AT 50 YDS.
GO AHEAD AND FIRE A FEW SHOTS AT ALL OF THESE RANGES TO VERIFY, BUT I'VE NEVER HAD THE 13-YD PROVED WRONG."
GARY CLANCY.


I'll have to give that a try at the range this week with a new to me TC Hawken in 50 cal.

Tom
 
this is interesting, and it explains a couple questions i get asked a lot.

1. bob, why do you use such a huge scope on a muzzleloader?

and..

2. why do you sight in at 20yds?


answer to both is basically the same...

i can't walk as far as i once did, not without being in horrible pain, and this is supposed to be fun right?

if i can get any rifle on dead center at 20yds i know i will be close and certainly on the paper at 100yds. and i can verify that without walking by turning the scope to max power.

(i can hear the next question already, "bob, you know they make spotting scopes?)

yes, but that is just one more thing for me to have to pack around, requiring more steps, and more pain.

bottom line is i can see the benefit to the 13yd plan.

bob g
 
I also use the 13Yd rule. But, I also draw a straight verticle , kinda thick line, and make sure it is level. I use this to line in the left and right of the sights. I try and make sure the Ball is centered with the line.
 
bob_g said:
1. bob, why do you use such a huge scope on a muzzleloader?


bob g

for this to be legal on this forum im just going to assume your using a brass traditional scope. if not... :barf: :slap:

-matt
 
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