How can i close this up?

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Kentuckywindage

62 Cal.
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Hello all,
This years hunt i found that theres a gap between the lock and barrel on my traditions kentucky flintlock. In the field i used about 8 strips of electrical tape to close off the gap and not loose my powder. Anything i can do to fit it? I Really dont want to take any wood out of the lock area. Im thinking about using some JB Weld and then sand to fit. Its not really a huge big deal but it would save my powder. We're talking maybe the thickness of a fingernail. I think a small coat of jb weld and then lightly sand it smooth and it would be fixed. Any input would be great.
Jon
100_2338.jpg
 
ahhhh yes! i forgot about the brass. I have that brass sheet metal that you use to shim up bearings on an engine. I'll give that a try tomorrow.
 
run down to your local dentist and ask for some lead x ray backing. They may be hard to find now that everyone is going to digital x ray, but they are free and really do the job.
 
Good thing to close it up, don't forget the safety factor. Get enough BP fines down there and one could have equivalent of a miniature IED.
 
Inlet the lock parts a wee bit deeper and the lock bolster will be tight to the barrel. That way you won't need shims. The lock bolts may need shortened a tad so they won't push against the cock and/or the frizzen spring.
It looks like the lock wasn't scraped in deep enough.
 
Concur with Cooner. The lock needs to be inletted further. Get some inletting black and put it on the internal lock parts to see where the wood needs to be removed.
 
Cooner54 said:
Inlet the lock parts a wee bit deeper and the lock bolster will be tight to the barrel. That way you won't need shims. The lock bolts may need shortened a tad so they won't push against the cock and/or the frizzen spring.
It looks like the lock wasn't scraped in deep enough.
Yep.
 
Before you start removing wood make sure that all the internal screws are seated. Also look at the lock plate, where the lock screws come thru, are the ends level with the plate itself or are they a little below the surface?
 
I have a GPR that's been retired to the gun case for several years and it suffered from the same problem. Rather than reinlet the mortice deeper or weld shims consider this; Take the lock out and with a toothpick put a little clear silicon sealant on the pan side of the gap. Put a line all around the pan. It doesn't need to be real thick. Now smear a little vaseline on your barrel and put it back together and let the sealant dry.
You will never know its there and it will stop powder from getting into the lock.
Some of these rifles don't have a lot of excess room in the lock area for a deeper inlet. This fix won't get you into unlooked for trouble later on.
 
I had a similar problem with a Dixie Tennessee Mountain rifle. Problem went away when I realized the vent liner didn't screw in quite far enough: it was holding the lock plate away just an equivalent distance.
 
I would remove the wood to get it flush, then I would use a very small film of plumbers putty to seal it up the rest of the way. The putty will turn to a semi solid state but will allow you to remove the lock for cleaning.
Regards
 
I found the problem lastnight when i was taking the rifle apart. The screw in liner, the powder would shift over into that and the slots for the screw driver was pointed straight down and the powder would fall into that area and dump into the trigger area. After the stock is refinished i'll go ahead and just use a touch of silicon to seal that area. Beats using electrical tape! lol.
 
I used my dremel tool to inlet the lock a bit deeped, mostly towards the frizzen side of the lock. The results were great, the gap is now 1/64", but now I have other problems. Check my posts.
 
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