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1BadDart

45 Cal.
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TO make the stock from the lock to the muzzle? It's about 3/16" now. I'm just about to the point I need to start removing wood from the stock on my Virginia .40 build,

Thanks, Justin
 
I had two original long rifles over the years. The fore stocks on both were formed to a thin edge where they met the middle of the side barrel flat. There was perhaps 32nd of an inch of wood along side the bottom of the side flat and more wood going up along side the two bottom angled barrel flats depending on the style. and where along the barrel. The stock ahead of where the ram rod hole exits has little to no structural purpose except to hold the ram rod thimbles and nose cap, if any.
 
My guns are 1/8" above the lock and side panel then rapidly transition to 1/16" to to the muzzle, cutting your stock down to be at mid barrel or slightly lower is as important at the thickness at the top of the forestock.

If I'm understanding you correctly, I'm pretty much where I need to be on the side of the barrel flat. I planed the top edges of the stock from the lock to the muzzle so that it follows about the midline of the barrel flats on the sides.

Thanks guys. Justin
 
I cut a wood dowel the same size as the barrel channel. Then I can use tools to trim the wood but the dowel supports the wood so I don’t chance a break, and I can cut over without harming the barrel.
 
To start....as previously stated, the top of the forestock is 1/32"-1/16" below bore centerline depending on bbl size. Normally I've used an oval shaped forestock and the portion of the forestock next to the bbl is 1/16" and then gets slightly thicker....but if the forestock is "V" shaped, the max thickness next to the bbl is 1/16" and doesn't get thicker.....Fred
 
I use a sanding block called a "Sand Devil" that takes small sanding belts both to bring my wood down to mid barrel and reduce the thickness where the wood meets the barrel, it makes for an even surface and doesn't leave any dips, I make long sweeping strokes with it.

side rails 2.JPG
 

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