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How to apply fake striping

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There exists a gun by John Bonewitz that has the remnants of apparently-original red grain paint on the stock. I don't mean painted curl, I mean the stock was grain-painted just like PA German furniture often was. It probably wasn't done a lot, but it was done. ;)
As a teen I was just starting to be interested in ML and had yet to buy one. But I knew for sure what they looked like, at least the American rifles of the ARW period. Brass tool box on the butt( I didn’t know what they were called. A flint lock with a big misshapen frizzen, that looked like a backwards C and a barn red stock. I must have seen it a book or movie but I don’t know where.
 
Thank you all I do now understand. We do have some rather nice Maple. Old English. "None left" and now from Turkey.
 
On a similar note; when I letter a bow I put one coat of finish down first, letter the bow then put 5 or 6 coats of finish on over the lettering, it won't wear off. I suspect faux striping would be locked in place by the finish as well.
 
A while back I was given an old Jukar pistol that had a beech stock. . . it was a pretty ugly thing so I took files to it and reshaped it, but my lock panels are not great, and the gun still looks fat in the lock and side plate area . . it's better than the original, but I could have done better. (I'm a very novice builder at best.) Softwood is not easy for some things . . one of them is striping. If you are doing a traditions, CVA or Spanish gun that is not walnut or maple, one thing I learned too late is the copper wire dented the edges of my wood in thin areas like the barrel channel. you need flexible wire, enough to hold in place, but not too stiff. Of course, I didn't see it until I put the clear finish on it . . .It's always like that, isn't it?

Anyway, I took a propane torch are wrapped the stock. I tried dark stain once and a brush but I am not an artist and it didn't look very good. . . it looked like I painted it poorly, which I did. . it also didn't have a lot of contrast in color. I always use LMF or Febings leather dye, unless it's maple then I also use aqua fortis. On this I used LMF Lancaster maple and chocolate leather dye mixed about 50/50.

Here is a pic of the pistol with faux stripes from a propane torch and wire.
 

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I asked about faux striping a stock once and even mentioned 'in the manner of Henry Leman' and got about 15 lectures on how I was never gonna get a plain maple/beech/birch stock to look like fiddleback maple.
 
A while back I was given an old Jukar pistol that had a beech stock. . . it was a pretty ugly thing so I took files to it and reshaped it, but my lock panels are not great, and the gun still looks fat in the lock and side plate area . . it's better than the original, but I could have done better. (I'm a very novice builder at best.) Softwood is not easy for some things . . one of them is striping. If you are doing a traditions, CVA or Spanish gun that is not walnut or maple, one thing I learned too late is the copper wire dented the edges of my wood in thin areas like the barrel channel. you need flexible wire, enough to hold in place, but not too stiff. Of course, I didn't see it until I put the clear finish on it . . .It's always like that, isn't it?

Anyway, I took a propane torch are wrapped the stock. I tried dark stain once and a brush but I am not an artist and it didn't look very good. . . it looked like I painted it poorly, which I did. . it also didn't have a lot of contrast in color. I always use LMF or Febings leather dye, unless it's maple then I also use aqua fortis. On this I used LMF Lancaster maple and chocolate leather dye mixed about 50/50.

Here is a pic of the pistol with faux stripes from a propane torch and wire.
I think that turned out well.
 
Not bad for a Jukar!
Thank you . . . it was a fun project. I feel like I improved it a lot. . . I'm sure a good builder could do much more, but there are design limitations with it from the start . . . Some day I may play with it some more, but I do kind of like it.
 
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