How to buy a used flintlock?

[Stonecove]

I am a newby to flintlocks, and I have decided to start by buying a used gun. Assume that I have decided on a style, type, caliber etc.( which I have not yet.)
Is there a checklist of things to inspect to make certain that I am getting a quality and functional gun?
For instance how do you inspect the whole bore when you can't see through it?
How can you tell it has a relaible lock?
I know how to buy a used revolver, there are common characteristics to look for when inspecting one. Things that anyone should know how to look for. For example here is a printed liston another forum:[url] http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816[/url]

Do you know of such a checklist for flintlocks or would you guys like to contribute your personal inspection techniques to start a checklist?
As a new guy to flintlocks, I would appreciate having a little help from the experts, and bet other newbys would like some help too.
Thanks much, I am learning a lot from this site!
Stonecove

 

[AZ-Robert]

For instance how do you inspect the whole bore when you can't see through it?

I'll ruminate on your other questions for a bit but, in the meantime, take a look at this:
[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...tId=6&subId=47&styleId=128&partNum=BORE-LIGHT[/url]

You turn it on, drop it in the barrel, then examine the bore with the light it provides (using the crown of the barrel to mask your eye from looking directly into the light).

 

[chuck-ia]

first thing I would look for is any rust, anywhere. touch hole location, overall fit of parts. a bore light would help. how much are you looking to spend? flinch

 

[paulvallandigham]

To check the lock, the most important thing about any lock is that it successfully performs its function of making sparks AND throwing them into the middle of the pan. So, put a flint in the cock, if there isn't already one in it. Then, after making sure the rifle is unloaded, that the frizzen is not stuck- lube the pivot screw if needed, and cock the cock back to check the half cock notch- it should hold the cock and you should not be able to release the cock by pulling on the trigger- and the full cock notch- it should hold the cock back firmly, so you can't make the gun fire by pushing on the back of the cock with your thumb- fire the gun while looking at the lock from the side of the gun. You are looking to see where in the pan any sparks land. The trigger pull can be lousy, the springs can be too strong, even the lock geometry can be less than optimum, but if the sparks don't go into the center of the pan, Pass On the Gun, or at least on the lock!

Hopefully, anyone wanting to sell you a used gun will let you shoot it. In addition to checking the bore for rust, I want to make sure it doesn't have any bulge or loose spots along the length of the barrel. I want to run a lubed patch down the barrel and feel it is tight all the way down and back. That borelight or mirror is a dandy tool to have and a must to use. You can see any rust without it, and even with it, its difficult to get a look at the bore. I use the " feel" test with that tight patch to tell me if there are rough spots, where rust has been a problem.

If you can test fire it, ask the owner what load and powder he uses. HOpefully, he will offer his patching and balls and powder to shoot the gun. I have when I sold a rifle. I let the buyer shoot several rounds down range from a rest to see how accurate the gun could be, and then let her shoot the gun off her shoulder, to get a sense of the weight and balance. She was not a good shooter, but she liked the gun, its light recoil, and bought it for my asking price.

 

[Landngroove]

For instance how do you inspect the whole bore when you can't see through it?

Take a nickle plated .38, or .357 case, and drop it down the bore. Shine a flashlight in. The nickel case acts as a mirror to the light, and you can see the bore. I would reccomend a Thompson Center Hawken, Renegade, or Pennsylvania Hunter Flintlock. Thompson Center has two styles of locks. The early style, and the newer, upgraded lock. I think you will find that most used T/C's will have the early style lock. While this lock is functional, the newer lock is easier on flints. If you do a search in the flintlock forum, you should be able to see some photos of the two styles of locks. The good thing about the T/C ML's is the warranty, lifetime.

 

[musketman]

With the new and used guns alike (mostly used), I first make sure they are empty, many guns are sold loaded...

Next, I take the hammer to full cock and apply thumb pressure to the back side of the hammer, if the sear notch is bad/worn, the hammer will fall...

 

[CrackStock]

Who built it?

How is the barrel attached? How deeply cut are the tenons?

What kind of barrel is it? How are the sights attached? How deeply?

As has been stated, looking at the bore is a good start.

Also feel the bore with a patched jag on a rod. There are things that you feel without seeing and vice versa.

Pull the lock and look at it. What kind/who built it? How does it operate in the stock and out? Is the fly there to make the halfcock work? Is the half cock notch cracked?

Is the stock good wood? Fancy or plain? Carved or plain? Look for hidden cracks -- especially around the wrist and lock mortice.

Are the mountings correct for the gun that you want? Engraved or plain?

How does the trigger operate? Simple, double set, single set...

There are a host of other items, but this is a good start.

CS