How to fix this?

[tom in nc]

I'm working now on getting the broken nipple out and browning the barrel. As you can see the inletting was not well done. I know the gaps need to be filled but I don't know how to fix it. I suppose the stock needs to be built up to fit the metal. How should I proceed?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

View attachment 228041
I'm working now on getting the broken nipple out and browning the barrel. As you can see the inletting was not well done. I know the gaps need to be filled but I don't know how to fix it. I suppose the stock needs to be built up to fit the metal. How should I proceed?

Make sure gun is not loaded!!!!! Cut a slot for screw driver, (Dremel will work) soak with penetrating oil. Try the screwdriver, but most likely you will have to drill it out. Go undersized so you don't mess up the threads.
Larry

 

[JeffG]

Do they make Easy Outs that small?

Easy out

 

[64Springer]

Soak with WD-40.

Drill hole bigger.

Insert easy out.

Remove nipple.

And remember Newton's Third Law. Every repair you make will have an impact on several other areas of that rifle. Each time you think about doing something, think hard about what that something will do to other somethings.

 

[Kansas Jake]

You might pick up a set of the left hand drill bits from Harbor Freight. Often the offending broken/stuck bolt will screw out while drilling. Just go easy so you don’t break the bit.

 

[64Springer]

You might pick up a set of the left hand drill bits from Harbor Freight. Often the offending broken/stuck bolt will screw out while drilling. Just go easy so you don’t break the bit.

And if he breaks the bit off in the hole, he's toast.

Buy a set of easy outs, read the instructions and do the job correctly.

 

[Kansas Jake]

Either way the nipple will likely need to be drilled. Breaking an easy out is just as bad or worse than a bit. Been there and done it.

 

[holzwurm]

BTW: if you decide to go the easy-out way, start drilling with a 1/16' bit through the hole then step your drill bits up in small diameters till you can get the easy-out in. prep the snail with some heat and penetrating fluid. 'Course yuo take the barrel out of the stock and park it in a heavy vise prior to heat.

 

[azmntman]

Wood work....I might try to move the barrel back VS any filler. Is that doable?

 

[holzwurm]

Don't know what the rest of the gun looks like but I'd not begin a "filler application" till I have the snale fixed. Then matching the pieces (slivers) of wood might work. Making the blemish fade in to the rest of the stock patina is a skill. Good luck

BTW, if you "move the barrel back" you will throw everything out of alignment.

 

[user 34300]

Check and make certain it is unloaded, then check again.

When a hardened faster breaks off in a rusty thing I normally have to get aggressive. If the nipple wrench broke it off it is pretty well seized. A screw slot is not going to get it. It will be impossible to drill if the nipple was any good.

There is a solution. I use an oxy-acetlene torch with a 00 tip. That is very small. IT will heat the nipple red hot and not bother the snail. That heat will break the rust loose. IT will also soften the nipple to permit drilling later. After you get the nipple shank read hot leave the breech end in a can of penetrant. ATF is fine. Come back the next day. Drill it out for the EZ-out. IT should come out , easy . A screw slot may work too. I use dental carbide burrs for that.

The breech is probably mild or even leaded steel it will not be damaged by the little heat it gets.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

And if he breaks the bit off in the hole, he's toast.

Buy a set of easy outs, read the instructions and do the job correctly.

Ya still have to drill for the easy out. Right?
When a hole is drilled underside of the threads, you can fold the metal inward with a steel pick. Easy out is good no doubt about that, but there are other ways to skin a cat.
Larry

 

[French Colonial]

I have had very good luck with the left hand drill bits, never tried it on a percussion nipple (mostly a flint guy) but it has worked well in other applications.

 

[tom in nc]

I was actually asking about fixing the gaps between the stock & barrel but thanks.

I bought the set of LH bits from Harbor Freight today.
I smiled when buying the bits, remembering an uncle, Dad's brother that I loved. Years ago I had bought Dad a similar set of LH bits and happened into Dad's shop when Uncle Shorty was there alone. He was trying to use one of the new bits, not knowing they were LH. He commented that the new bits weren't worth a crap. Then I had a hard time convincing him they were LH. He obviously had never heard of such a thing.

 

[longcruise]

Wood work....I might try to move the barrel back VS any filler. Is that doable?

First check the alignment of the hammer. Moving it back might change that alignment. If alignment is good where the barrel sits now then filling would be the way to go.

 

[morehops52]

All good advice above. I would only stress to make sure you get the penetrating oil down in the barrel as well as the top side. Heat it up a little and let the oil do its work.

 

[Rebel bull]

And if he breaks the bit off in the hole, he's toast.

Buy a set of easy outs, read the instructions and do the job correctly.

no sir as a retired machinist/maintenance mechanic about 90% of the time you need to drill before using a easy out and I always try to use a left hand drill

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

You might pick up a set of the left hand drill bits from Harbor Freight. Often the offending broken/stuck bolt will screw out while drilling. Just go easy so you don’t break the bit.

Kansas Jake has my vote. Semper Fi.

 

[tom in nc]

I used my new bits. Trying to be careful not to drill too big at first, the first bit did not "catch" and turn the broken piece out, just cut it like a hot knife thru butter. Stepping up twice more did the same. The final bit I used was a RH one the proper size for use with a 1/4-28 tap. I opened a brand new tap but it is a tapered tap and I need a bottoming tap evidently. The replacement nipple I have is 1/4-28 but I believe the old one was 6mm. My local muzzleloader shop assures me that a 6mm hole can safely be redrilled and tapped to 1/4-28.
Guess I'll be looking for another tap.
On the excessive gap(s), I don't believe moving the barrel/breech back is an option so I'll be looking at filling gap(s) with wood.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I seem to be the king of filling inletting gaps; I get way too many. For your gaps at the back of the breech just glue in a couple of flat shims, make them a little thicker than you need and chisel off the excess a little at a time until your tang screw hole is perfectly aligned.

Is your gun and older CVA? It looks like it has been abused from what I can see in the pictures.