I am in the process of restocking a Thompson Center Hawkins with a good grade of curly maple. I wanted to inlay a brass “weeping heart” on the wrist of the stock. What is the best way to inlay brass embellishments to a rifle stock? What tools do you use to install an inlay?
How To Install Inlays?
- Thread starter Stoner
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Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
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Do a practice run to it's completion first.
You will receive a waterfall of knowledge in about 20 seconds. :shocked2:
You will receive a waterfall of knowledge in about 20 seconds. :shocked2:
Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2005
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- 566
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- 78
This is my secret weapon. I did not show it on my first tool "layout".
It is a modified X-Acto blade. It has a long bevel on the tip. It is a single sided bevel just like a chisel.
The sides are tall, and act as scrapers for the inlet walls.
The hallmark of a good inlaying job is not only a snug fit on the perimeter, but a uniform pocket that follows the bottom of the inlay. True, it is hidden forever, but that does not matter.
By turning the bevel down, you can slide this little gem along the bottom, and only raise a transluscent curl. The blade has a tiny amount of flex. This is the secret.
If you try to hog out the bottom with the bevel UP, you will invariably dig out way too much, and it will have a chongered, ugly bottom.
This little Princess (the Queen is the bent chisel) scrapes with total control, and you can feel every fiber of the wood yield to her feminine guile!
If you are not a heavy handed mook, this chisel will serve you well.
Remember, this is just my technique however, and there are plenty of others to achieve the same goal.
If you have followed "Cherry Build" you will note that I display the insides of my inletting, putting "my money where my mouth is".
I practiced with "fancy" dime store cabinet hinges on scrap wood, before I ever touched an expensive stick.
The inlays depicted show the result of the Punch Press operation Zonie discussed. Take heed.
Have a great time, you will be confident of your new found skills before you know it. Don't get frustrated! :thumbsup:
Erzulis boat said:
I've struggled with inlaying and was kind of dreading a couple of small inlays I wanted to put in the rifle I'm building. This tip made all the difference. It's the perfect tool. Thanks a lot. You probably saved me from mistakes I would have regretted everytime I looked at this gun!
Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
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Thanks-
I am glad it worked out!
I am glad it worked out!
Erzulis boat
45 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2005
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I used a very fine "green" silicon carbide 6" wheel on a bench grinder. (I believe it is 120 grit- whatever was the finest listed)
These wheels are designed for sharpening cemented carbide tools, so they grind very "cool", meaning they are very quick wearing to take the heat generated with the particulate matter of the wheel.
They run about $20.00 or so.
To grind the X-Acto, I just don't let it dwell for more than about 5 seconds. It will barely get hot.
It will grind very clean, so that only a light de-burring with a stone (hand) will square it up.
These wheels are designed for sharpening cemented carbide tools, so they grind very "cool", meaning they are very quick wearing to take the heat generated with the particulate matter of the wheel.
They run about $20.00 or so.
To grind the X-Acto, I just don't let it dwell for more than about 5 seconds. It will barely get hot.
It will grind very clean, so that only a light de-burring with a stone (hand) will square it up.
This process works great for me, let me start by saying that I like the tool that Erzulis posted earlier, it looks good. I would guess that you are talking about the stamped inlays here correct?
I normally hold or 1/2 drop of CA glue it onto the stock, then exacto knife around it carefully.
Next I pop it off carefully and make the knife cuts deeper. remove all material needed, plus i go 1/16" deeper ( for the epoxy that i use to retaine it. DO NOT TRY TO CUT THE OUTSIDE TO HAVE THE INLAY FIT INTO IT.
Now for the easy part. After you are sure that I have the trench deep enough, I lay the inlay on top of the spot, cut a small piece of FLAT wood to sit ontop of it (the inlay) then use a C-Clamp to press it into the void.
What will happen is the extra depth that you have cut will allow space for the shavings from the outside being cut to go to.
Keep in mind that the stamped inlay will have a sharp edge on the bottom from the stamping operation, this is what makes the final cut to exact size.
Craig
I normally hold or 1/2 drop of CA glue it onto the stock, then exacto knife around it carefully.
Next I pop it off carefully and make the knife cuts deeper. remove all material needed, plus i go 1/16" deeper ( for the epoxy that i use to retaine it. DO NOT TRY TO CUT THE OUTSIDE TO HAVE THE INLAY FIT INTO IT.
Now for the easy part. After you are sure that I have the trench deep enough, I lay the inlay on top of the spot, cut a small piece of FLAT wood to sit ontop of it (the inlay) then use a C-Clamp to press it into the void.
What will happen is the extra depth that you have cut will allow space for the shavings from the outside being cut to go to.
Keep in mind that the stamped inlay will have a sharp edge on the bottom from the stamping operation, this is what makes the final cut to exact size.
Craig
