How to make a simple folding knife

[M Kuhn]

Does anyone know where I can find instructions on forging a simple folding knife? They are usually just a forged blade with a tail that folds into a piece of antler and the tail becomes part of the handle when the blade is open.
I know it shouldn't be too hard to figure out but I would like to see some examples or find some good instructions to take out the whole trial and error aspect of it.
I have seen them somewhere but I can't for the life of me remember where now.

 

[LRB]

Booklet, Antler and Iron by Gene Chapman.

 

[M Kuhn]

Thanks for the Chapman info but those are even more complex than the knives I am thinking of.
The ones I saw were two piece, a blade and a handle. The blade just folded open and the little tang laid on the back of the handle to keep it open while your hand was around it. They were pretty simple.

 

[Extranero]

In the last year or two there was an issue of the Museum of the Fur Trade Quarterly that had an article on French folding knife patterns. The were several patterns pictured in the article, all very simple. Most were what would be called friction folders with no provision to lock the blade open. In some the butt of the blade came to rest on a pin driven through the handle, in others not. Handles were generally horn, not antler. Another type is the common English penny knife with a turned wooden handle reinforced at the attachment with an iron or brass ferrule but no lock of any type. The only locking blade folders I've seen reference to are the ones with the external spring on the back of the handle like the one pictured in the Fur Trade Cutlery Sketchbook. As for the blades with long tail that folds back over the top of the handle, my impression is that these are a modern reenactor thing. Could be wrong there, but I can't recall a period one. They seem not so handy to me anyway since the tail is sticking out of it when folded.

Sean

 

[LRB]

I am pretty sure he shows the simple friction folder also. Basicly you cut a slot in an antler tip for the blade and tang. The tang needs a stop of some sort. Use poster board or thin wood to fit and shape like you want the blade to be. Get it right, then make the acual blade by that pattern. Pin it in using washers for good strength. Here's one of antler, and one of wood. With the antler, I drill for the pin centered. With the wood I drill a bit low of center because this type holds open by a tiny notch in the blade resting against the steel ferrule.

 

[Walks with fire]

I like that top antler knife. Nice work.

 

[M Kuhn]

That top knife is exactly what I am talking about! Very nice work.
I have my forge up and running and am looking for small projects to start with, Turn screws, simple folding knives, hoof picks,spoons etc.
The knife you posted is actually the nicest knife of that type I have seen.
It's inspiring.
Thanks!

 

[M Kuhn]

Wick, How did you split and curl that tang? That has to be difficult on something as narrow as a knife blade!

 

[LRB]

That was a Nicholson file just shy of 3/16" thick. I split it with a hacksaw, the tapered the two tines. I used a tri-corner file to groove the saw cut at the base so it wouldn't look like a saw cut. Here's a shot of it closed. This is my personal bag knife, and main deer working knife.

 

[M Kuhn]

That was a Nicholson file just shy of 3/16" thick. I split it with a hacksaw, the tapered the two tines. I used a tri-corner file to groove the saw cut at the base so it wouldn't look like a saw cut. Here's a shot of it closed. This is my personal bag knife, and main deer working knife.

That is really a nice knife, I really need to practice.
I have dabbled in forging over the years but finally have a forge and anvil set up in my shop.
I can't imagine my first folder will be anything close to that beautiful, You are obviously way beyond my abilities but I have to start somewhere.

 

[LRB]

Just take your time. Patience and foresight are priceless. Make a dummy from wood and aluminum first. That will give you a feel for the real thing. With antler tips, the amount of curve can make you, or break you. A gentle curve works well, but if not enough you may end up with a sheepsfoot blade, want it or not. Too much curve might give you a wider blade than you wanted, or an extreme up curve.

 

[BillinOregon]

Dang, Wick, your stuff is always so beautifully executed. You know, if you ever wanted to make a knife-making DVD, I would buy three.

 

[LRB]

Thanks Bill.

 

[loki04]

Sir,

Very beautiful.

How did you shape the bolster on the second Knife? does it square off at the top, or taper a bit?

Regard,
Loki

 

[LRB]

No taper. It is flat across the front with the edge beveled off. If that is what your asking about.

 

[loki04]

It is indeed.

Another question if I may, you mentioned that the notch on the back of the blade holds it open. Does it do so via a spring or tension from the edge of the bolster, or is the center pivot tightened to give tension?

 

[LRB]

No spring. If the blade gets loose you tap the rivet with a hammer. These are called penny knives. The notch at the rear of the blade stops against the rim of the bolster

 

[loki04]

'Ah, I see' said the blind man

many thanks
Loki

 

[LRB]

'Ah, I see' said the blind man

many thanks
Loki

As he picked up his hammer and saw.

 

[loki04]

What can I say? :grin: