how to prevent stuck RR syndrome?

[thatoneguy82]

Seems like everything I shoot I get the ramrod stuck right at the breech. It doesn't matter if its flint or percussion. I haven't shot anything with a patent breech in a while so everything is direct ignition from either a screwed in bolster or vent liner. Anyone have any insight into how to abate this problem or is a ramrod removal tool the only solution?

 

[coloradoclyde]

Stuck when? loading or cleaning?

 

[necchi]

Yeah, more detail,, you probably have some kind of fouling going on,, for some reason.
What's your loading/shooting regime?

 

[coloradoclyde]

If it is when you are cleaning then oversized, or dry patches and some patch materials will cause it
As will button jags, or oversized jags, and excess fouling.
Could be a rust ring, bolster or vent liner protrusion.

 

[dikman]

Could be a rust ring, bolster or vent liner protrusion.

My first thought too ('cos I had one of those!).

 

[Black Jack]

Are you using a cleaning brush with brass bristles by any chance? If so, try one with plastic bristles if you want to use a brush. The stiff brass bristles don't want to reverse direction on the way out and jam easily.

 

[coloradoclyde]

For me it is usually a cleaning patch that is too big or too dry.
Although I must say over the years I have gotten good at removing a stuck rod.

 

[thatoneguy82]

It is when I'm cleaning that it gets stuck, always with a patch and doesn't matter if its wet or dry. If I'm swiping it up and down with short choppy swipes it is much less likely to stick. Bores are nearly new and rust free, patches do sometimes exhibit some fraying. I typically clean with the same material I patch with so its .012-.015

 

[jamesthomas]

I would stick a bore light down it and see what's happening, my bet is a protruding vent liner or bolster.

 

[necchi]

I'd just slosh some water down first an let it soak a bit before you start using the patches.

Chances are that sometime during the guns shooting life, there was a little oil left as residue down near the breech. When that happens a hard crud is built up when it's fired,, hot BP residue and oil combined with the pressure of shooting makes an almost hard tar like substance that can be a dickens to get cleaned out. Cleaning that stuff out requires an oil cutting agent like brake cleaner and more than a little effort scrubbing an changing patches,,

 

[bpd303]

What type of ramrod & jag are you using? If the jag is a button type the patches are probably jamming against the rod and if you can't grip the end, like with the rod that comes on most rifles & is short, you will have trouble pulling it out.

I would try flannel patches which are not as thick as shooting patches along with a range rod so I can grip the handle.

I like the jag style with a long shank, in this post.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/289929/

 

[coloradoclyde]

Try a thinner patch cut it smaller and make sure your not using a button jag.
.012-.015 is what I use to patch a ball with.
I don't like using the same thickness for cleaning because they tend to stick. your patch/jag combo doesn't have to fit real tight to work.

A good 'ol cheap white t-shirt has always been my favorite cleaning patch material.

 

[Many Klatch]

Stick the brass button in a drill and hold it against a file for little while. It sounds like your brass cleaning jag is a bit too large for your cleaning patches. I like my brass cleaning jags to be small enough to allow me to use green kitchen scrubbing pads, old sweatshirts and old towels to clean the bore.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

I never use a ramrod or a jag to clean, ONLY a patch worm & a Range Rod. Never get a stuck patch that way! I only use cotton cleaning patches to clean with. One on the worm to check for any oil residue at the beginning of the day and two on the worm if I'm scrubbin' the bore with wet patches of Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine.

When I'm done cleaning I spray Barricade into the bore & onto a couple cleaning patches & force oil thru the flash channel & out the nipple. Store gun muzzle-down so any excess drips out the muzzle onto paper toweling. One patch on a worm & a range rod goes all of the way into the breech. Good for the entire day--even if I'm firing 75 shots at a Boy Scout Shooting Station.

As others have said, if you start with a CLEAN gun, you're GTG, and if there's a crud ring you're screwed from the START! Get a Bore Light & take a peek to see what's going on down there & report back to us.

Dave
NRA Distinguished Expert in ML Rifle & Pistol

 

[Billnpatti]

Based upon what you have posted, I suspect that you are not swabbing your bore often enough while you are shooting. This will allow a ring of crud to build up in the breach. When you run your first cleaning patch down, it will encounter this ring of cruc and become trapped. The best way to avoid this problem is to swab your bore after each shot. Doing this will keep your bore exactly the same from shot to shot and keep a ring of crud from building up in the breach area. Let me refer you to a work that I think is an absolute necessity for anyone who aspires to shoot a muzzleloading rifle accurately. www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com Dutch's system consists of a relativly few pages but they are rich with information. His system is worth every penny that you will spend for it. Dutch will explain every fascet of muzzleloading accuracy, one of which is swabbing between shots. I highly recommend his system. I have it and I use it. :thumbsup:

 

[ohio ramrod]

Another recommendation for Dutch's syatem. Also you might consider using a ramrod with the straight end taped for attaching a "t" handle. Then you could place the handle between your feet and use your leg muscles to pull. :idunno: