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How to repair the copper sheen on a barrel caused by not following directions?

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GAHUNTER60

40 Cal
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Yeah, I learned the hard way that rubbing LMF browning formula too vigorously during application causes a copper sheen to form on the barrel surface that will not accept browning no matter how many coats you put on.

The thing is, it's only affected two one-foot sections on two flats. The rest of the barrel browned up perfectly. My question is, can I sand and re-appy the browning solution on just those sections of the barrel without doing the whole thing? Will the new browning blend in with the old? I would take a picture and post it, but the barrel is going through its 24 hour motor oil soaking at the moment.

Right now, I'm planning to go ahead and reassemble the gun so I can get it to the range and begin finding a load. I can live with a few flaws for a while. Lord knows, my wife has learned to live with my flaws for nigh on 40 years!
 
Scota's right. Ya gotta start from scratch,, no other band-aid or fix for that besides learning the lesson. It's OK,, the stuff comes off alright, an it don't cause no harm if ya use it,, but ya gotta sand down the whole thing and re-do it (not just those spots or flats) the whole thing. :doh: whoops!
 
I have some copper r/r thimbles that might look pretty funky with a palomino copper and brown barrel. (Please forgive me , I 'm old and plagued by a sick sense of humor.)..............Seriously.....i'm with Necchi............oldwood
 
I am not happy right now! It took three days of application, waiting, scaling, reapplication, etc, etc etc., just to do it all over again.
 
That's why it helps to follow the directions. I hate to be cruel but it is all your fault. When you re-do it, like I did until I figured it out, put just a little bit of solution on what ever your applicator is and wrap it up in a baggie for awhile to let the solution disperse evenly. The LMF does a very good job but you have to remember to put as little on as possible. If it looks really wet it's too much. I don't know for sure but I think you may be able to just do the botched parts if you re-polish. The only way to find out is to try it or maybe someone here has tried it and can tell us. Good luck on your second try.
 
Been there done that. Strip it with scotchbrite and start over it will look like a patch job if you don't.
 
On the normally 46" long bbls I work w/, for application I use a small piece of flannel doubled up and after wetting w/ LMF, slightly blot the flannel on paper toweling. When starting at one end and never going back over , I usually have to re-wet again and blot the flannel to reach the the other end.....that's because the flannel isn't that wet. The re-wet location on the bbl is varied so it's not noticed.

I card w/ a denim rag and it's rubbed fairly hard. The amount of rust carded off depends on mainly humidity and time between coats. A makeshift "sweat box" is used and hot , wet towels are placed on the bottom. Time for another coat depends on when the preceding coat becomes red rusted. I sometimes get by w/ 3 coats but normally 4 are req'd.

After the 4th coat is rusted, ammonia is used to stop the rusting. ....I tried a baking soda slurry but get better results w/ ammonia. If a crust has formed because of too many coats or letting excess rust form. the LMF is difficult to neutralize. The small parts are submerged in ammonia and the bbl is given many very wet applications of ammonia.

After neutralizing, all the browned flats are lightly rubbed w/ 0000 steel wool dipped in motor oil. A wipe off and it's done. Sometime later. a coat of wax is applied.

A useful, simple stand as shown is used when applying the LMF....makes holding the bbl and its rotation easier. Also used when neutralizing and finishing the bbl. The muzzle end has an oversized dowel forced into the bore.

As was said....use a coarse Scotchbrite pad to remove the copper coating and start over.....Fred

P1010005.JPG
 
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