how to restore dry leather.

[nwtradegun]

found a pair of my old moccs. need to know how to restore them. cost to much to throw away.

 

[Artificer]

I have used Lexol Leather conditioner since the 60's and have been very happy with it. I DO recommend buying it in the spray bottle so you don't soak the leather too much in any one application. (That's bad experience talking.) Use it with light coats and buff afterwards for best results.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lexol-Leather-Conditioner/16529108

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

Good advice from Gus, Lexol is a water based conditioner and needs to be renewed fairly frequently but it does a great job. Just remember, whatever you decide to use, check the contents carefully and avoid anything that contains any amount of petroleum.

 

[Blackbruin]

I use a bear grease bees wax mix, 70/30.

 

[Ringel05]

I've always used saddle soap first on old leather, it starts the softening process as well as cleans the article then use pure neatsfoot oil (not a neatsfoot compound). Been doing that for decades and all my leather looks and wears as it did when I first bought it.

 

[lapierre1]

I've used Pecard and been satisfied with it.

 

[crockett]

I use neatsfoot oil but too much can sort of "oversoften" the leather. You can mix up a 50/50 neatsfoot oil carnauba wax dressing that works well.

 

[Mad Irish Jack]

You can check with leather craft places like tandy and some others. they have an assortment of products and techniques to rejuvinate old, hard leather.

 

[FishDFly]

Do not use Neat's foot oil which is petroleum based.

 

[LaBonte]

Do not use Neat's foot oil which is petroleum based.

That's only true of Neat's foot compound and really it's the silicone in it that can cause major problems - not all petroleum based products are bad on leather - Ballistol for instance has a highly refined mineral oil base.
Pure Neatsfoot oil today mostly has a base of heavily refined hog lard that meet the US Gov't Standards for that type oil - this info is per the manufacturer's of the Lexol products including their Non-greasy Neatsfoot oil (their Lexol Conditioner is an analog of whale oil using a proprietary mix most likely based on Jojoba Oil).
IIRC the only cow fat/oil from the lower legs and hooves of cows based Neat's Foot oil made today is that sold by Fiebings. Check out any manufacturers MSDS to see the ingredients.

 

[thecapgunkid]

You have some good advice here, but you gotta start with what you have. If the leather is so dry as to be brittle and maybe crack a little on the surface, then anything you do will only last for a short while.

I've always hated the stink of Ballistol, but a lot of guys swear by it. I use a lot of beeswax, but not as a leather lube or preservative because it will not last.

When working with cowhide, such as a gunbelt or a cartridge box, Neatsfoot is OK if only lightly used. Yeah...silicon is the leatherworkers bad guy, so be careful during selection. In fact, ANYTHING you put on your leather should be put on lightly. That's only because the length of time you use your stuff will probably be short enough that long term wear will be a minimal problem.

when making shoes for peoples' footsies, I got away from everything off the shelf and began to rely on what another Cordwainer taught me;

Go down to the healthfood store and buy a small bottle of liquid lanolin. If you can stand mutton, although beef will work also, cut a bunch of fat off the raw meat and render it down using a very low heat...no sizzling if you can help it.

Mix them both, started with equal parts, until you get a jelly-like consistency and maybe add a tablespoon of pine oil for a better aroma.

This is referred to as Dubbin ( dubn, dubbn, dubben) by shoemakers, and was a universal ingredient in pre-industrial era.

It'll keep for a long time if sealed, but I am told that the best way to manage it is to avoid making too large a batch.

You might also consider this....off the shelf stuff is not meant to have any "authentic" look or patina. Most leatherwork today, especially factory items, is made to appeal with shine and a gloss or matte finish that is distinctive in appeal to the 21st century eye.

Good luck and post a few pics when yu're done, please.

 

[Alden]

I used Neatsfoot Oil on leather decades ago, but switched to Franklin Baseball Glove Conditioner that contains Neatsfoot and other oils (their Dr. Glove is Mineral Oil based) when I needed to salvage Bicentennial-era items -- worked well. Have used Lexol and somebody's Mink Oil as well...

 

[Billnpatti]

I have had success in restoring old leather by first cleaning it with saddle soap and then applying a product made by a leading shoe polish manufacturer called "Mink Oil". I don't know if it contains any real mink oil or if that is just the name. I apply several coats rubbing each coat in well, rubbing off the excess and then letting it sit in a warm place (a warm room) for a day or so between coats. Depending on how dry the leather is, it may take several coats before you get it as soft as it is going to get. Be careful not to be too vigorous with the rubbing or you could damage very old and dry leather. The oldest piece of leather that I managed to restore was a piece of leather equipment (leggings) that belonged to my grandfather when he was in the Army horse mounted cavalry in 1916 through 1921. They came out pretty well. I also restored an old football that belonged to my dad back in the mid 1930s. It, too, came out pretty well. I tried to restore a bayonet scabbard from the civil war but it was so fragile that I stopped before I did any irreparable damage. You win some and you loose some.

 

[nwtradegun]

ok got the pure neat foots and used it. it turned a dried out moldy pair of mocs like new. thanks for the help.

 

[coloradoclyde]

check this guy out.
http://youtu.be/aFEUGyc9ah0

 

[shawn_c992001]

Elephant Wax

 

[Arrowhead]

Most of you will think I'm nuts but this is what I used for many years on really dried out, heat hardened leather. I spent a lot of years making my living as a welder and welding is rough on leather protective equipment and gloves especially. The heat just accelerates the drying and aging process of leather from years to weeks. I used either buckskin or elkskin gloves as they out lasted cowhide by a wide margin but eventually they would get unusable because they became so hard and stiff. WD-40 was the magic elixer. Spray the the heck out of them and let 'em set overnight, then spray them again and let them set for a couple of more days. Works best on buckskin with elkskin a close second. It helps cowhide but not nearly as much as the other two. I just didn't buy cowhide welding gloves. I have no idea how much money I saved over the years with this trick but it was a bunch. It would double the life of the buckskin gloves.

 

[Carl Fowler III]

After reading your post I was reminded of an incident that took place while working a hollywood movie here in Pittsburgh called Foxcatcher. While on location at one of the wealthiest families in america, I had the opportunity to visit the coach house and see their line of coaches dating back to the mid 1800 era. The earliest coach had a very plush leather pleated interior covering the entire inside. When I opened the coach door the aroma of fresh leather caught my attention and I asked the caretaker if the leather had been recently installed, his answer floored me....it was the original leather and was attended to properly! Wish now I had quizzed him on what he used to keep it in this new condition!

 

[druid]

Either Neatsfoot oil or Tandy's "Dr. Jackson's hide rejuvenator":
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/dr-jacksons-hide-rejuvenator-21978-00.aspx

I use the hide rejuvenator on all my leatherwork, including the purses I made for my ladies [4 of them]

 

[Rifleman1776]

ok got the pure neat foots and used it. it turned a dried out moldy pair of mocs like new. thanks for the help.

Lot of varying advice and opinions so far. Here is mine:
Anyway, first consideration, if leather is too far gone, nothing will restore it. But, leather can be kept in good condition for decades with care. I have leather items well over 50 years old that are still in great shape.
My secret? :hmm: Don't have one. I just retreat occasionally with whatever is at hand. I have used Neatsfoot oil, pure and with silicone with no discernable difference in results. It is my most common leather treatment. I've used mineral oil, mink, bear, whale with peanut oil mix, and more. Secret is to just do it. I do use Neatsfoot until item is soaked then let hang for several days to allow excess to drip out. Glad you could renovate yer mocs.