How to rework a CVA (Jukar) Flintlock Rifle

[stevenjay1]

I've been a muzzle loader shooter for well over 50 years and built a few but I just picked up an older CVA (Jukar) flintlock rifle for a song and dance. I can neither sing nor dance so it was really cheap! The rifle is ugly and I can't stand the brass spacer between the two stock parts. I have a vision to first replace that brass spacer with matching wood or some other type of design and trim down the stock. Has anyone reworked the stock so it has a slimmer more graceful design? If so, do you have pictures or can you point me in the right direction. The bore is ok but I would like to replace it with a 32 caliber barrel or reline the current barrel to 32. Any thoughts on this project? Thanks, Steve

 

[necchi]

Here's one I did (geez, 5yrs ago already); http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/269225/post/1145359/hl//fromsearch/1/
Took a lot of wood off with rasps to start with, swapped out some parts for Germain Silver to dress it up and to help take the eye away from what it really is.

The split,, I made the holes for the pins in the stock pieces a bit bigger and deeper to accept larger pins then epoxied the two haves together. After shaping I removed some wood to accept and poured pewter to cover the split.
I cut a few inches off the barrel and weighted the butt behind the plate to give it better balance.
If you dis-assemble the lock and polish all the parts you'll have a hard time finding a factory one that works much better, there is an upgrade frizzen available that has better temper then the factory, check with Deer Creek Products.

I'd keep that 45 barrel, they always where great shooters,, it's an odd metric size so you won't find a 32 barrel that will drop in, besides it's too much money to throw at the rest of the cheap Spanish parts.

 

[eggwelder]

That's a nice job Necchi. I have an Ardessa that may see a similar treatment now that I`ve seen yours.
I have a new small Spanish made flint lock. I`m wondering if that could be cleaned up and polished to work better. it`s a flint basher so I`ve avoided playing with it.

 

[stevenjay1]

Thank you necchi, That is about the same thought I had but I was going to inlet a brass star over the joint of the stock. The pewter is a great idea but I don't think I can get it in Brass :wink: I am going to polish the lock as I did to a percussion lock many years ago...what a difference. I'll also use pins to secure the barrel to the stock once I join the two parts of the stock. A little work, but it will be a fun project. One question, How much wood did you take off the stock.

Thanks, Steve

 

[necchi]

A LOT. I bet I took off at least an 1/8" on each side of the fore-stock from the lock forward.
I guess I didn't take before and after measurements,

 

[davidmc62]

Yes they can be slimmed up a lot. Doing one now for a friend. I took the fore stock from lock panels to first RR pipe down to about 1/8" on each side of the barrel channel. Took the remaining fore stock from first RR pipe to muzzle down to about 1/16" on each side of the barrel channel. Removed the brass spacer and glued the stock together. Had to do a lot of filling and drilling new holes but it is looking pretty good.

 

[stevenjay1]

Thanks David, can you post some pictures of the work in progress?

 

[davidmc62]

here are a few of just the stock under stain and faux striping

 

[coloradoclyde]

What kind of tarp is under that stock?

 

[davidmc62]

ashamed to say a shower curtain. A photographer I aint.
Here are some pics of the rifle under 3 coats of true oil and assembled. I still need to finish the barrel and brass furniture. Will put a few more coats of true oil on to and I'm thinking of using some bone black to accent the stock even further.

 

[stevenjay1]

Very Nice David, I can not see the joint where the stock joint is. Also, How did you do the faux striping?

 

[davidmc62]

Laurel Mountain Forge Nut Brown Stain for the base color,let that dry. The stripes were painted on with a medium sized artists brush with Feibings Medium Brown leather dye. I did not worry too much about placement or trying to make them "regularly spaced" or "even thickness" which I think gave it a more believable look to it( as seen in the pics of just the stock ).
I was more concerned with the stripes connecting on the top and bottom and in the RR channel of the stock than trying to make both sides "match".
After the stock dried, I tried to rub back in a few places on the forearm and wrist to lighten the color. I did not like the look plus it brought out the seam between the fore stock and butt stock again. So I ended up adding more LMF dye and repainting many of the stripes. This unfortunately made the stock even darker and hid the stripes more. I figured I better leave well enough alone so I started the oil with Birchwood Casey Tru oil seen in the assembled rifle pictures. I like the results so far and have learned a few things for the next one.

 

[stevenjay1]

Thanks David, Very interesting. I think I'm going to have to play with it. Many Years ago I tried a process that was in the Dixie Gun Works catalog. I can't remember the chemical I used but I soaked a string in the solution and wrapped it around the stock. It came out looking like a dyed string wrapped around the stock. The stain looked good but that was it. I'll have to give this some more thought. Steve

 

[buffcreekforge]

Similar to the string trick you tried on the stock, I have taken barrels down to bare metal and then wrapped them with yarn. Then, I soaked the yarn with Naval Jelly and left it for about an hour. Unwrap the yarn and the finish give the appearance of a damascus barrel. I don't have pictures, but it dressed up a cheap rifle nicely!
Others may disagree, just my experience.

I remain your humble servant,

Just Dave :grin:

 

[zimmerstutzen]

For some one wanting to learn some finishing and working on black powder guns, reworking an old CVA kit gun is about as good and inexpensive as it gets. I have a few of the Kentucky pistol kit guns, that I picked up over the years. I want to install a good lock and a single set trigger and then turn the barrel to round to shave off some of that front heaviness they suffer with.

 

[stevenjay1]

All I had prior to this weekend were some bad pictures. But now I have the rifle...well it is what it is and it's on the back burner until next winter. The wife and I are getting ready to move back East (from California to New Hampshire) to be near the kids and Grandkids. We are in the mist of getting rid of a lot of stuff and packing. However, I did take it apart and there seems to be some modification already made to the gun. Although, I’m not at all knowledgeable concerning these Jukar Flintlock rifles.

1. The two parts of the stock are already glued together.
2. The barrel is held in the stock with pins, I thought the forearm was held in place with screws into the barrel. So I would guess this is a modification done by a previous owner.
3. I also suspect the ramrod pipes are a replacement and screwed in from the top and the screws are ground down on the inside of the pipe
4. The lock is stamped Spain on the inside and seems to be in good working order except the frizzen spring seems light and the face of the frizzen is worn.
5. There is an adjustment screw on the tumbler which I would guess is adjusting the weight of the trigger pull.
6. It also looks like the breech plug has been replaced, As a matter of fact I would say it has been replaced as there are marks on the barrel and breech plug that show it has been at least removed and replaced.

Very Interesting, any thoughts? Thanks, Steve

 

[coloradoclyde]

If it is a Jukar or CVA rifle and someone has messed with the breech plug I would not shoot it unless your life insurance is paid....

their breech plugs are not removable and marks on the barrel are the signs of someone who didn't know what they were doing.

I suggest you have a competent and knowledgeable gunsmith with CVA experience look at it.

 

[coloradoclyde]

2. The barrel is held in the stock with pins, I thought the forearm was held in place with screws into the barrel. So I would guess this is a modification done by a previous owner.

The barrel is supposed to be pinned to the stock....

 

[coloradoclyde]

3. I also suspect the ramrod pipes are a replacement and screwed in from the top and the screws are ground down on the inside of the pipe

This also sounds normal, but pictures would help.

 

[coloradoclyde]

1. The two parts of the stock are already glued together.

Normally the stock is joined together with a brass spacer and two longitudinal pins that are not visible...

Pictures would really help
sounds like a kit gun