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How's my drill here?

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Wolfbane

40 Cal.
Joined
Aug 29, 2005
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Hi guys, in addition to a .45 cal ML rifle, I am getting a single barrel 12 gauge percussion ML shotgun. Now I am a rank beginner to B-P and ML shooting, and I want to know a couple of things.

* First, apart from the equipment used in ML rifles, what equipment is needed to start of with in ML shotguns?

* Second, I have worked out a drill for loading the shotgun, and I would like some comments thereupon: the drill is as follows ....

1. Half-cock
2. add powder
3. add wad
4. add shot
5. add disc to cover shot
6. Prime
7. Full-cock
8. Fire

Thanks in advance for any replies! :hatsoff:
 
Hey, if it that's what you're into then just practice practice practice until you can do it in 10 seconds, blindfolded during a windstorm :grin:
 
Wolfbane said:
* Second, I have worked out a drill for loading the shotgun, and I would like some comments thereupon: the drill is as follows ....

1. Half-cock
2. add powder
3. add wad
4. add shot
5. add disc to cover shot
6. Prime
7. Full-cock
8. Fire

Thanks in advance for any replies! :hatsoff:

It could be like that, ot there is other ways as well, nothing is written in stone for M/L shotguns...

Here is #2 thru #5 of your drill that I use...
LOADINGSEQUENCE1.jpg


Tip: When adding the over-shot card, it is good to nick the edge with your thumbnail, this will allow a route for the air to escape while ramming it down in place...
 
For both guns, you need to add a cleaning sequence to the drill. Before the first shot, you should be firing a couple of caps to clear the oils and congealed grease from the breech of your gun, and the channel from the nipple or touchhole to the chamber. If the gun has been sitting for any length of time, use alcohol on cleaning clothes to get the grease out.

Between shots the cleaning procedure will vary from none, to a thorough cleaning using several cleaning patches, depending on the gun, what you are firing, ( both powder choice, and ball or bullet) how you load components( tighter over powder cards will increase the efficiency of the burn, removing more of the residue, and using FFFg powder will often leave less crud in the barrel, with the right load.) Target shooters clean between every shot, and mostly use tight fitting balls, thin patches, and lots of powder so that they get the ball to the target before winds have a change to deflect the shot. The guns tend to be built stronger for this kind of work. What to use for cleaning varies from spit, or bore butter, to all kind of favored cleaning solutions and lubes made with olive oil, soap and beeswax. Pure water has its fans, too. There are columns here that discuss these things ad nauseum. Your choice.

What works for you will often depend on the relative humidity where you live, more than anything else. Air temperature can also affect your decision as to what to use. I can get by with spit lubed patches on the range here in the midwest during most of the year, but in the winter, when it is dry and cold, , I have to use artificial lubes, because spilt will freeze. In Florida, my brother has to use a good bore butter on his patches and in his barrel because the humidy, and salt air attacks everything. His prime will become a puddle within 15 minutes, so he doesn't prime until the last minute, and has to plug his touch hold with a toothpick when he is hunting. Eliminates quick shots from the hip, but he still gets it done. There is no ONE cleaning process that works for everyone in every corner of the country.
 
Thanks for the feedback everyone; now loading and firing into a windstorm :blah: Thanks for the reminders about capping off and cleaning. I am a aware of the issues, but I was more focussed on the how tos of loading and firing. That diagram is brilliant Musketman, I am going to print it out and have it laminated! :hatsoff:
 
I put my cushion wads in moose milk, let them soak, and then squeeze them out, and put them in a ziplock bag until I use them. They are soft, lubricate the barrel well, and keep my barrels one shot clean all day.

Moose milk I make uses water soluable oil, liquid detergent, hydrogen pyroxide, and water. Put the hydrogen pyroxide in just before use, as it is unstable, and will evaporate. If left in a bottle of moosemilk, it can explode the bottle!
 

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