I inlet my lock too deep... now what?

[Onojutta]

I inlet my lock too deep. Bolster is now sticking too far into the barrel channel. Other than this small oversight, I am very happy with the rest of the inlay. Two solutions I can think of are:

1) Cut and glue a slab of wood to the bottom of the lock mortise and then re-inlet the lock plate to the proper depth. Obviously this would be a big time set back and I'm worried how the inletting will go once I get down close to the glue in some areas.

2) Stop the woodwork and use epoxy to bed the lock plate at the proper depth. I am already planning to epoxy bed the barrel when I am done since my stock is very soft red maple so I have already opted for durability over authenticity as far as the use of epoxy is concerned. My fear with this option is getting the lock plate positioned just right before the epoxy cures. My inletting job is so tight that I have to use a mallet to seat the lock plate so there isn't much maneuverability to adjust it once its in the mortise.

Any thoughts?

 

[Eric Krewson]

I would measure exactly how far the bolster goes into the barrel channel and cut a piece the size of your lock mortise that is just slightly thicker than your measurement, glue it in place. Very little work will be necessary to get your lock positioned correctly.

 

[tallbear]

I would do what Eric has suggested.Fill the space and reinlet.

Mitch Yates

 

[Vaino]

I'd just glue in some wood pieces at the nose, tail and a narrow wood piece at the bottom of the lock plate. After the "innards" of the lock are inlet, won't be many more bearing surfaces for the lock plate to sit on. The bolster will be up against the bbl for the most important bearing surface....Good luck....Fred

 

[rich pierce]

This is all good advice. If you glue in a piece of matching wood just make sure you get both the existing surface and the "inlay" flat and clamp the devil out of it when you glue it, and it will be as strong as original and not pop out when you start chiseling on it.

 

[Bill Hall]

I would do it as Fred described. When all the parts are inletted, only a border of wood around the perimeter holds the lock in place. Nose, tail and bottom is plenty, especially if the outside fit is as tight as you say. Make sure all wood is clean, then glue and clamp in place, one strip at a time. Any wood worker's glue should be fine. Good luck. Bill

 

[jdkerstetter]

All good advice. It appears as though your lock inlet has nice straight sides so after you ensure the field is level, something that might make this easier is to use some paper and do a rubbing of the inlet to make a pattern.

Cut that out and glue it to whatever wood you are going to use or just trace around it. Cut the wood just proud of the line and file to fit. You can then glue it in as is or cut out the center so that just the border remains and glue that in.

Just a thought. Good luck and Enjoy, J.D.

 

another option

drill and insert tiny wood screws to be used as
jack posts to support the lock plate

adjust each screw until you get the lock plate just to the height you want it, while sitting on the screw heads.

then fill with epoxy to the top of the screw heads.

perfect fit can be assured and attained.

bob g

 

[chuck-ia]

Would it be possible to file a bit off the bolster, till it just touches the barrel? How much too deep is it? flinch

 

[chuck-ia]

Or flehto"s advice is very good allso, not a lot of actual contact area once the innards are inlet, seem I have had to adjust final fit by gluing thin pieces at the nose and tail of the lock to get that good fit. flinch

 

[M. De Land]

I like your glass bedding idea and would use the gel with floc added so it doesn't run all over the place. I'd shim to the height you want.You can mold to much tighter tolerance than you spot and scrap plus it will be water and oil proof.MD

 

[TimmyP]

I was thinking the same thing as Flinch, regarding sanding the bolster. However, the screw and epoxy idea is a good one also. Good luck.

 

[MSW]

i've made the same mistake ... i used glass bedding to 'build up' the offending surfaces, and this worked out fine.

no- one knows (until now, of course)

make good smoke!