I need Help: I need an Idiots Guide

[pvt_McCracken]

I have to admit, the more I read on this forum, the more I am getting confused about how to do certain thing with my brown Bess.

When I first got my Bess, I went out an older gentleman(more mature). We tested my Bess with different loads. According to him during my test firing this is what we came up with.

I have a 1742 Long Land Brown Bess

We used 80-90 grains of FFFg (this is what I had on hand and I was told this would be okay)

For the Patch we used a piece of cloth cut to the bore size, with Bore Butter on it.

The ball was a .715 cal


I did alright at his house firing, however, when I took my Bess to a local firing range, I have to say I couldn

 

[Stumpkiller]

The load looks OK, but I'd recommend FFg instead of FFFg.

Make Fully, Completely and Totally sure the patch you are using is 100% cotton. Hold a match or lighter to a dry piece and if it melts find 100% cotton. Pillow tic is standard.

Bore Butter is good stuff and fine for your lube (and not bad as a rust preventative after cleaning).

Firing sequence:
Wipe frizzen with spare patch.
Wipe flint (carefully - should be sharp. If not sharp, dress or replace)
Wipe pan.
Close frizzen (Alternative Q: place quill of small feather in vent).
Measure charge.
Pour charge in barrel.
Lube patch (if prelubed, go to next step).
Set patch over barrel.
Press ball into patch until ball is flush with muzzle.
Cut patch (if using strip - if precut you're already done)
Ram ball onto powder.
Open frizzen (or remove quill if using Alternative Q).
Prime with small amount of powder in pan (should be below vent level).
Close frizzen.
Concentrate on target (the lug IS NOT a front sight).
Pull trigger.
Curse.
Repeat until target moves out of range.

Your cleaning drill looks good. Plugging the vent will make things less messy & damp when you fill the barrel. I used a wet bore mop or a wad of tow on a tow worm instead of patch - same difference.

Once you have this down you should investigate the fabrication and use of paper cartridges. They're faster and easier, but possibly less accurate.

The Bess is pointed just like a rubber-band or a shotgun. You look at the target while keeping your finger (barrel) in your field of vision and sighting down it. Your brain has to develop the reference base to program itself for the shot. It takes time and practice.

Start at 15 yards and aim at a tiny, quarter sized target on a 8-1/2" X 11" background. Move back as you start getting recognizable groups. The Bess is capable of 4" at 50 yards in an expert's hands. Getting all the shots on paper at that range should make you happy at this stage of your learning curve, Weedhopper.

 

[musketman]

Is this the book you're looking for??? :crackup:

There are (as you have found out) many ways to load a Brown Bess...

I use FFg in my bess, I found that FFFg burns holes in my patches no matter what they are lubed with, course I like stout loads as well...

So, let's go with 100 grains of FFg as the main charge...

To load, hold the bess with the muzzle upright (make sure it is empty and free of oil first) and measure a charge in a separate measuring devise and pour it into the barrel...

I like to give the barrel a couple of soft "thumps" with the palm of my hand to make sure the powder is in the breech section...

Place a pre-lubed, precut .020 pillow tick patch over the muzzle and place a .715 round ball in the center of the patch with the spure (flat spot) up...

To determine the size of patch needed to seal the bore, I start a ball in the middle of a sheet of patching material (or denim) about an 1.2 inch down the muzzle, then draw completely around the material with a magic marker and then (using the cloth) I pull the ball...

Unfold the cloth and look at the diameter of the marker's mark on the patch, this will let you know what size patches you'll need to make/buy... I cut mine 2 inches in diameter...

With a short starter, push the patched round ball down the muzzle a few inches...

Take the ramrod and push the patched roundball down on top of the charge and remove the ramrod...

Now all that is left to be done is to prime and your ready to go...

I use boiling hot water and a mild bar soap (shaved into small strips so it mixes quickly in the water) to clean my bess, I also have the barrel pointing at a downwards angle to drain excess water as I'm cleaning...

Once done, I run dry patches through her until she's squeeky clean, then a light machine or gun oil, inside and out...

I found out that an old tooth brush is ideal for cleaning the various parts of the lock... :winking:

 

[Redleg130th]

Where did you get this Bess and who made it?

 

[Rat]

My Bess also likes 100 grains of 2fg. It is most accurate, or seems to be most accurate with a tight fitting ball and patch. I shoot a .735" ball, although I think a .730" would be perfect for my gun.

My gun is more accurate with the sprue of the ball DOWN. This is the opposite of rifles...but works.

A wonder-wad under the ball works wonders in my Bess. Eliminates blown patches.

I put long-rifle sights on my Bess. They look "right". Take the sights off a rifle, and try shooting it with a bayonet lug for a sight...and the rifle probably would not hit that bull in the arse either. Rifle sights give my musket about a 75 yard range for big game, and sometimes a 3" group at 50 on a perfect day.

I do NOT clean my black powder guns with water...EVER. Never have. Not putting anyone down who does, but please consider there are other options to pouring soap and water down the bore of a firearm. I use Hoppe's #9+, then regular #9, then oil and Kroil. You don't HAVE to use water...it's just the common or accepted method. Just letting you know there are other good methods.

Good luck.

Rat