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I think I need a new lock.

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You just aren't going to find a lock for it, I don't see any production lock fitting it. You will probably have to have your lock reworked by somebody. I know there is a member here who works on the Indian made gun locks, but don't remember who it is. If you do some searching you should be able to find him, or maybe he will see this thread.
 
I did do that. I’m thinking that if it did that once it will do it again.
If your spring is maintaining return flex, then it should not need heat treatment. If it is too hard it can break when flexed. Without anymore than I know now, I would be checking to see if the frizzen spring is too stout. I say this reply in conjunction to getting the flint the correct length as said by others.
Larry
 
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I finally got a chance to put a longer flint in and smoothed the spring and the frizzen where they contact. Correct me if I’m wrong but now I’m thinking I might need to heat and bend the **** so that the flint will hit farther down the frizzen. First pic is where the flint makes first contact the second is where it stops when fired.
 

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I finally got a chance to put a longer flint in and smoothed the spring and the frizzen where they contact. Correct me if I’m wrong but now I’m thinking I might need to heat and bend the **** so that the flint will hit farther down the frizzen. First pic is where the flint makes first contact the second is where it stops when fired.
Doesn't appear to be fully fired, frizzen is hardly moved back off the touch hole!
Is the frizzen spring to heavy and not letting it open all the way?
 
@Shiloh, before I would buy a new lock, I would consider sending your lock off to be tuned by someone like Brad Emig of Cabin Creek. I would also try using a small wooden match stick under the rear of the flint to lower the leading edge. The frizzen spring may be too strong and preventing the hammer fall from fully opening the frizzen.

It takes a skilled locksmith to balance the working parts of the lock to get the lock to reliably perform.
 
I finally got a chance to put a longer flint in and smoothed the spring and the frizzen where they contact. Correct me if I’m wrong but now I’m thinking I might need to heat and bend the **** so that the flint will hit farther down the frizzen. First pic is where the flint makes first contact the second is where it stops when fired.
First, try a longer piece of flint leather and double the leather at the rear of the bottom. This will form a wedge and the edge of the flint will tilt down making lower contact with the frizzen. Play around with angles to see if it helps your problem.
 
I'd say the geometry of the lock is just all wrong. I think having someone good with locks work it over is the best option. I believe a member here, ColonialRifleSmith, works over Indian made muskets.
 
I finally got a chance to put a longer flint in and smoothed the spring and the frizzen where they contact. Correct me if I’m wrong but now I’m thinking I might need to heat and bend the **** so that the flint will hit farther down the frizzen. First pic is where the flint makes first contact the second is where it stops when fired.
I'd say the geometry of the lock is just all wrong. I think having someone good with locks work it over is the best option. I believe a member here, ColonialRifleSmith, works over Indian made muskets.

Yes that particular flint is striking at pretty much a 90 degree angle, and that is part of the problem.

You want a little more angle on the edge of that flint.

BAD FLINT ANGLE.JPG


You may need to polish the Frizzen cam more, or change it's shape a tiny bit, but prior to that, you may want to try this....

Take a standard wooden match. Place it under the edge of the flint, at the very back, to cause the front edge to angle a bit more downwards. See if that gives you any change at all.

FLINTLOCK MATCHSTICK.jpg


LD
 
Theres a bunch there ... Dont get a new lock you dont need one , and for some reason folks think they can buy drop in parts for hand made firearms ....not going to happen ....the geometry is off a bit but messing with the flint each and every time you change one is a sure step to getting frustrated with the gun and hanging it on the wall forever or getting rid of it . The **** should be heated up and bent down ever so slightly but even good locks that I own sometimes hit half way down the frizzen ...not optimal but ...they fire ! The spring is your big problem ... With it fixed you'll probably be fine but ...one problem at a time .... Best of luck . Find a gun builder / lock smith to fix it and send it to them
 
I finally got a chance to put a longer flint in and smoothed the spring and the frizzen where they contact. Correct me if I’m wrong but now I’m thinking I might need to heat and bend the **** so that the flint will hit farther down the frizzen. First pic is where the flint makes first contact the second is where it stops when fired.
You are exactly right: the hammer needs to be bent downward. You will likely need to shorten the jaw screw a bit to do it, but it is exactly what is needed for good ignition. All my locks are set up in this fashion and all give excellent ignition. Not only will it help with opening the frizzen you will not need to rely so much on gravity to introduce sparks to the powder. Your flints will likely last longer as well.

If you don't want to bend the hammer I suggest sending it to someone who can properly do the work. I have used the Log Cabin shop in Lodi OH for many years and can recommend them. There are others who can do it but I only have experience with them.
 

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