inlet shaping

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BlackNet

40 Cal.
Joined
Sep 18, 2005
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Hello,

I have taken my lock plate and tried to cut the outline/shape on some scrap wood and for some reason i can not seem to get smooth outline, there's alway ssome gaps where I went to far or not far enough.

so anyone have tips they would like to share on this? I hae tried cutting with a dremel, a 1/4" chisel and a carving set, same results with each tho the carving set seems to do a much better job.

Ed
 
Watch the thread "gunbuilding 101" I'll be inleting a lock today...if all goes as planned. :winking:
 
Ed, read Mikes thread on building 101, and get rid of the dremel. Unless you are very, very, very, very, very good with it, it will give you about 12 aw ***** per minute of operation. Don't ask how I know. Hand tools work best, and good sharp ones are just as fast as power tools, with more control. A tool turning at 30,000 rpm has a mind of it's own. Bill
 
Mike will let you in on the secrets of doing it well and efficiently. Quickly in case you are impatient:
a 1/4" chisel is OK for almost all inletting work but you probably want one narrower and one wider.

Even a master cannot work well with tools that are "kinda sharp"

You must have some "draft" on everything you inlet- must have a few degrees of taper.

I have a trick for lock inletting that works for me to keep it from wandering: I clamp the lock down to the wood and drill thru the holes in the plate with an undersize drill. Then I put in short nails (no heads) that are undersized in the holes- say the sear hole, and the mainspring or frizzen spring hole. Everytime I set the lock in and take it out, it's aligned the same.

When you scribe the line for the first cuts, make sure your scribe is leaning IN. Then use a THIN chisel to cut on that line and don't go too deep at once because compression will move the chisel cut outward.

If you get a good start and stick to it, you'll be fine.
 
Hey Mike,

I have a great idea. I can mail you my stuff and you can use it as the example for class!
 
It never occured to me to put the lock bolts in as soon as you do.
Dixon's book and Shumways book don't install the lock bolts until much later in the building process.
Mike's way is much better and the next rifle/pistol I build I am going to use it..
thanks
 
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