Inletting a Toeplate

[Cowboy]

I'm starting this topic because I would like to add a toeplate on a kit TC Hawken. Fred had started a topic earlier about how he reshaped the stock on his Kit TC Hawken. I had made the comment that I would like to add a toeplate on one of mine. Didn't want to highjack his topic anymore than I had so I'm starting this one.

First off, my wood working skills suck! I do envy you Gun Building guy's. I will admit that I think I did a pretty good job on my TC kit rifle though! I know it's pretty basic stuff.

To my question: I would like to add a toeplate but do not own chisels. I want to add the toeplate without ruining the finish that I already have on the stock. This rifle already has a sling installed as well.

Fred mentioned putting the sling stud through the toeplate earlier on his topic. I would like Fred or someone to maybe expand on this.

I want to inlet the toeplate with the basic tools that I have. My skills in this area are minimal at best!

I would appreciate some detailed guidance.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Cowboy]

Here is the toeplate I want to use. I forgot to mention that I did mount it on the stock before but it wasn't inletted in. Ended up pulling it off when I added the sling.

I would be open to inletting a different style if it would be easier for me?

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Zonie]

If you wanted to install a toeplate like the one in this picture you would need (IMO) a hobby knife and a small chisel to remove the wood at the forward end.



That said, there is nothing written that says the forward end can't be straight across without the fancy curves. In other words, just a rectangular plate.

If this option is chosen, you wouldn't even need a chisel if you have a large flat single or double cut file.

The double cut file which has teeth that cross each other forming diamond patterns removes wood much faster than a single cut file (all the teeth are parallel across the face of the file).

You will need to know the thickness of your toeplate and have something like a pair of calipers or a small combination square to lay out the thickness of the plate on both sides of the stock.
(A combination square has a movable blade and usually a 90° and 45° edge.)

To use it to lay out the depth, rest the toeplate on the 90° surface with the movable blade sticking out just a little.

Adjust the end of the blade so it is exactly the same height as the toeplate is thick and lock the blade in that position.

Resting the 90° surface on the bottom (toe) of the stock with the blade hanging over the edge, you can use the pointed scribe or a good very sharp pencil or a knife blade to mark (scribe) the depth for the length of the plate.
Do this on BOTH sides of the stock.

Remove the butt plate and place the toeplate on the bottom of the stock with the aft end hanging slightly over the butt where the butt plate was.

Then, using the pointed scribe, pencil or knife, scribe a line along the front edge of the plate across the bottom of the stock.

With your layout complete, use the flat file to remove the wood down to the lines.
File "across the grain" for rapid wood removal.
File "with the grain" for slower wood removal and to product the final, really flat surface needed to mate with the flat metal plate.

Be careful not to file anything forward of the length line that represents the front of the toeplate.

Check both sides often to make sure the wood is being evenly removed.
Stop when the filed surface reaches the lines on both sides and the filed area just touches the forward "length" line.

I'm sure you can figure out how to drill and countersink the holes for the coned heads of the screws.

After the plate is screwed in place, you will need to file off the overhanging toeplate at the rear. Do this using your flat file so that the end of the metal exactly matches the butt plate.
There should be a ever so tiny line where they meet.

Now, you will have to file the sides of the plate so they exactly match the sides of the butt.

Normally, I do this long before any stains or finishes are applied but because your stock is already finished you will need to protect the wood.
Using some masking or paint masking tape, cover both sides of the stock in that area.
You should be able to carefully (slowly) file the sides of the metal plate down to match the wood.

 

[bubba.50]

with a simple rectangular toe-plate you could get by with a scribe to mark the thickness & end lines and a file.

 

[Chowmif16]

Cowboy,
What Zonie said is exactly right, but frankly, I think that the chances of marring the finish are reasonably high. Not that Zonie's technique won't work, just that as a new gun builder myself, I often find that things which seem simple in concept often are difficult in execution. If you don't have wood working skills (like me) then your success rate will be lower.

I would weigh benefit of the toe plate with the likelihood of damaging the finish. Plenty of 200+ year old rifles did not have toe plates and have survived reasonably well through a long working life.

If you do decide to do it, I would recommend Zonie's method, and use a rectangular toe plate, without any fancy stuff on the end. Much easier.

Also, one thing to add on to Zonie's directions. Have a look at the flat file you are going to use. Many files also have teeth on the edges. As you are filing near the muzzle-end of the cut (ie the front end, next to the line you drew or scribed), if your file has teeth on the edge, it will not only cut down, but cut towards the muzzle. This may/will extend the cut past your scribed line and leave a gap at the front of your toe plate.
Most folks who build guns will grind off the side teeth on their files, making a "safe edge" that will not do this. I gather that you do not have a grinder, so be careful, or try to find a file that already has a safe edge.

So, while it sounds like I am encouraging you not to do it, secretly, I want you to do it and enjoy it, have success and then start building guns!

Best of Luck!

Chowmi

 

[Cowboy]

Zonie, bubba, and Chowmilf,

I appreciate all of your advice. Zonie, I like the way that your toeplate came out.

I have formed a plan on how I'm going to tackle this project.

1. Going to use a rectangular plate. The length will be just shy of the sling stud. Going to use Zonie's method that he had described.

2. Going to practice on spare wood before I attempt to inlet the toeplate on my stock.

Now I'm going to order a couple new toeplates and start practicing! :grin:

Thanks for the education.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[nhmoose]

Tape the sides of the stock and be careful bring the sides of the plate down.

 

[Cowboy]

Another great tip.

Thank you!

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:

 

[Vaino]

Plenty of good info on the inletting. I make the studs out of round stock and file the smaller dia in a drill press....this smaller dia has addt'l length for riveting......Fred

 

[Cowboy]

Thanks Fred!

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:

 

[Onojutta]

I used a rasp and a file to remove wood from the rectangular portion down to near the thickness of the toe plate, and a small chisel and sharp knife for the rounded front. Then from there, inletting black and a small chisel to achieve the final fit. Leave a little tail sticking out the rear (1/16-1/8 inch) that you will then gradually file down so that it fits flush against the buttplate.

A word of caution when using a rasp or file to remove the wood. It is very easy to over-do it and take off too much wood, especially along the edges, and especially with a rasp. Go slow and keep the rasp/file as flat as you can. When I did my first toe plate I was also intimidated, especially about getting it perfectly flush with no gaps along the edges, but it turned out to be much easier than I worried about.

Also, since it sounds like you haven't done much inletting before, here's a tip if you use screws. Countersink the holes in the brass before you drill the wood for the screws. Then, use a hinge drill bit to drill the holes in the wood. This is what a cabinet maker uses to perfectly center screws in countersunk hinge plate holes. Here is an example:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hinge-drill-bit-set-3-pc-61550.html

If you don't have any inletting chisels, Muzzleloader Builder Supply sells some real nice basic steel chisels that are very affordable.

 

[Cowboy]

Great Info. and advice!

Thank you.

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:

 

[Chowmif16]

Fred,
I like that idea, I'll have to file it away somewhere.

On the subject of inletting toe plates, I have a question for the crowd.

I inlet the toe plate on my Isaac Haines rifle the other day. It has a decorative finial on it, but a fair amount of straight portion prior.
I initially set to filing the straight portion in (after drawing depth lines etc.), and realized I was going to be filing all day across the grain on hard maple with my not so coarse file.
So, instead, I did like you would do when making a dovetail in the barrel. I cross-cut lines with my hack saw close together to almost the depth required. After that, filing was quick and easy.

Does anyone else do it this way? Or is there a better way?

Cheers,
Chowmi

 

[Vaino]

If a straight ended toeplate is used, a 1/2"-5/8" wide flat chisel from a hardware store would suffice. Don't like rough files or rasps because they could tear the wood at the edges and expose the bare wood.

Mark the forward end of the inlet and w/ the straight edge of the vertical chisel on the mark, hit the chisel. Now use the flat of the chisel to remove the wood.... and as the inlet becomes deeper, rechisel the forward boundary. Remove wood until the depth marks are reached . The forward edge of the toeplate inlet can be straightened if a longer toeplate is used.

Screw the toeplate down w/ the forward edge up against the inlet and file the sides at an angle so as to not remove the finish.

The rear end of the toeplate is filed to match the Bplate and it's done....Fred