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inletting my tang with pics(help)

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alaskasmoker

40 Cal.
Joined
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So as you can tell by the pics, my tang is not getting down into my stock.

The bottom of the barrel is not contacting the bottom channel. See pic of where the inletting black is hitting the sides.

Also if you notice the breech of the barrel is not quite flush with the stock but just about.

And in my inlet pic you can see where some of the tang is making contact. But there appears to be a warp in the tang. Is that normal?

So what needs to happen here? Do I bend my tang more? Try to get the barrel lower? Im running real thin on the wood!
Thanks!
tang.jpg

tanginlet.jpg

barrelchannel.jpg
 
I've only done a couple like this, but any place the wood gets darkened (especially this dark), must be taken down. SLOWLY! Check, check, and re-check all the time (how deep, angle of metal, etc taken into account). When it's close, I used small hobby files to go very slow. In the end, the tang can be filed flush with the wood.

Hopefully, someone with more experience can help. Good luck.
 
Let me ask, do you have the barrel inlet fully in the stock, without the plug installed? If you are trying to inlet the barrel and tang at once, good luck. The way I have done it is to get the barrel fully inlet, once satisfied with that I will put the plug in and inlet the plug, tang. I will allso bend the tang to the stock profile.To complicate things, be aware of where the touch hole will be, seems to me the whole gun revolves around this tiny spot, lock location, barrel location, from there ram rod hole, and on and on. flinch
 
Well I thought I had the barrel fully inlet with out the breech plug but, since no black is on the bottom of the barrel channel I guess not.

So do I need to take breech plug back out and continue carving away wood until the bottom of the barrel hits the stock?
 
By the looks of your last picture, you need to go down with the barrel, looks like you have good contact with the side flats, I would not take any off the side flats. If it were me I would take the plug out and inlet the barrel to the proper depth, and allso see where the touch hole , (drum) location is in relation to the lock.I assume this is a precarved stock? flich
 
The touch hole is in the right place. I know that I have the barrel back far enough to put the hole and liner just ahead of the plug.

If I dont remove any of the sides how does the barrel get farther down. I cant get black to show anywhere on the bottom.
 
I lightly sanded the sides of the channel on my York. I draw filed the sides and bottom of the barrel. Then I sooted the barrel and sanded the chanel several times removing very small amounts of wood until the bottom showed black and the barrel sat where it should.
 
With the forestock braced in a vise, and out at the forend, use the barrel itself as a scraper to fit the barrel this last amount. The square edges of the flats of the barrel will scrap off thin layers of high spots until you have the barrel down on that bottom flat. Its actually easier to do it with the barrel, then with other tools. The best part is that the do all five flats at one time. Lift the front end of the barrel while working the wood down, and when you think you are at the bottom, THEN slide the barrel in the mortise from front to breech to remove the last high spots, which will almost always be only on the bottom flat at that point. Just blow the dust out frequently from the back of the mortise, so that the barrel butts up against solidly against the stock.
 
Just a few of my thoughts:

The following assumes that the barrel without the breech plug will sit down into the channel and the top of it is flush with or slightly below the stock in that area.
tanginlet.jpg

The tang is hitting at the rear.
Remove a little wood where the black appears but do not remove any wood that isn't blackened.
Also, do not remove any wood from the sides of the tang inlet.
barrelchannel.jpg

This picture shows that the barrel is bottoming on the 45 degree angled flats. The few little black marks on the side flat can be fixed by using a block of wood with some sandpaper on it.
That will knock off the little high points without increasing the channel width. Without those little bumps your barrel will fit much easier into the stock.
After the side flats show more of a black smear than pronounced black spots you can work on the two 45 degree flats to get the barrel down a bit further.

tang.jpg

The tang and barrel sticking up is to be expected before the tang fits down fully into the stock.
At this point, the barrel should be riding up out of the stock about the same amount as the rear of the tang is protruding. That indicates that just slightly bending the tang down at the rear might be in order. This will raise the barrel up a little. Go easy here. A little can do a lot and you don't need a lot to make things come together.

As for the mis-match between the curve of the tang and the curve of the stock, after the rear of the tang is down about flush with the wood, plan on filing the "hump" of the tang down so that it matches the curve of the wood.
 
Well guys, took the breech plug back out and am trying reinletting to get it lower. I cant for the life of me see any black on the top 45 flats or the bottom. I sanded the sides of the channel (the vertical ones) and that made the barrel easier to get in and out, but a gap is starting to form.

So now what? should I round out the angle of where the vertical sides meat the 45's?
 
I think what Zonie was talking about is the black marks where the verticle meets the angled flat on the right side of the channel. I circled it (poorly) here:

barrelchannel-1.jpg


It doesn't seem that you need to widen the channel but you need to deepen it and if there is no black showing up on the bottom of the barrel channel then it is being stopped up above. I suspect the areas circled are at least part of the issue.
 
I would NEVER sand the vertical sides. You are BOUND to get gaps. As shown above, you are getting bottoming at the corners of the 45's in the inlets where they meet the vertical sides. Sometimes you'll just have a little high spot and it will prevent the whole barrel from bottoming down. You really need an experienced builder to spend half an hour with you. The online stuff can only do so much. Nobody can see the whole, real situation.
 
I would look real close as capt fred says. What I have used, (right or wrong) is just a plain old 1/4" chisel for doing a barrel channel, actually pulling or scraping instead of pushing and taking off too much wood. I must have missed what tool you are using.This may not be the correct way, but is how I do it. Just don't get in a hurry. flinch
 
The circle is too wide in my photo but what I'm trying to show you is the 3 dark black marks right where the barrel channel turns from vertical to the first flat.

The idea of using the chisel as a scraper is a good one. If you hold the chisel by the steel blade so that the chisel is vertical to the surface you wish to work, you can pull it toward you and it will scrape off a very small amount of material. Try it on a scrap to get the hang of it.
 
Before you go a draggin all of that wood out, let me ask ya this... OK ?

Now, you should have the center of the vent hole punched on the barrel, so now you KNOW the vent liner is in front of the breechplug face & in the Center of the barrel flat.

That being said, put the barrel in without the breechplug, put the lock in. IS the top edge of the flashpan (looking straight across it) even with the Center of the barrel flat ? The centerpunch dot should be just barely above & barely forward of the center of the pan.
If not the barrel has to go to where the mark is in the correct place.
If the centerpunch mark is way above the pan, the rear of the barrel needs to go down. If it is centered with the top edge of the flashpan, the lock preinlet was done wrong & you need to send the stock back, cause by the time you get the barrel down to where you need it, you will have the vent hole real high on the flat.

So first Make SURE the barrel is in the correct place, the vent liner dot on the barrel you made is Exactly correct with the flashpan in. Then do the tang.......

Image1.gif


This is a LH barrel, so yours should be just the opposite. See the dot mark in the L of the ? crosshairs lines ? That is the perfect place for your vent hole. You should be able to look flat across the pan & see that dot. Lay the edge of a razorblade across the pan edge & it should be just barely under that dot.

Now if your dot is Way Hight yet to the pan ? The rear of the barrel must go down.

If it is Perfect right now, you have way too much barrel out of the wood & you have a real issue........
 
When I mentioned the use of sandpaper, I was meaning to say that it should be lightly used. Just enough to knock off those little black high points. Not enough to actually widen the channel.

Yes, the three black places where the side flat meets the 45 degree angular flats was what I was speaking of when I said the barrel is stopping on the 45 degree flats.
The inlet black tells the whole story and as others have said, it only takes one little piece of wood to keep the whole barrel from dropping down where it belongs.
 
No worries here guys. I only took off a very small amount from the sides that probably needed to come off anyway. The barrel is still snug, but I no longer half to squeeze it in there. From what I hear I didnt want it that tight anyway.

As soon as Im able tonight, I will post with my progress. Gotta wait for the wife to come home and watch the kid.
 
ruh roh! So even though the barrel is not quite all the way down the centerline of the barrel is well below the top of the pan! So right now if I were to call that good the ventliner would be riding high on that flat, almost breaking over. The black vertical mark is where my breech plug stops. That horizontal line is the center of the barrel. These were taken without the breechplug installed.

center.jpg

height.jpg
 
Looks like the bbl has to come down approx. 1/16"and that locates the bbl centerline well below the top of the pan. Locate the TH liner on bbl centerline and see if a 1/4" White Lightning will work. The threaded plug length seems very short, but can't see exactly because of the shadow from the cock. If the plug really is that short, then the bbl has been set back too far. Haven't read all the posts, but have you read some of the "how to" books?.....Fred
 

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