Use a depth gauge to determine how wide that new spring is, as it invades the space of the current lock mortise. The depth gauge will tell you how deep the current mortise is a various locations. The difference is the amount of wood that has to be removed with tools. Usually drill bits, and chisels are all that are required to remove the extra wood. DON'T remove any more wood than is absolutely necessary for the parts to work( Move). Do NUT CRUNCH the lock plate screws down- as that collapses the wood cells in the stock, and usually results in parts being bound up by touching the wood in the mortise. If the Lock plate screws fit properly, they should NOT extend outside the surface of the lock plate, when screwed in firmly. If you don't have witness marks as guides on these bolts, then put them on the screwdriver slot bottom, and on the bolster in the stock next to the mark on the slot when the lock is in place.
The forward screw on any flintlock is needed to make sure that the lock plate and flash pan are snug against the barrel. Otherwise, flash powder can work down between the flash pan and the barrel, and damage your gun and lockplate if it catches on fire, and explodes. When you look down the side of your rifle, and over the lockplate, the plate should be flat, and even in relation to the flats of the barrel. If one side of the lockplate is deeper than the rest, something is wrong. :shocked2: Back those bolts out.
I like to strengthen the lock mortise- when its finished, by putting a thin coat of epoxy on the entire surface. It both seals the wood, so that oils, and water won't soften or rot the wood, and provides some added strength to the wood where its the thinnest in the stock. I use a small brush to wipe on the epoxy and then use some rags, or paper towel to soak up any extra, before it sets up. That way, the epoxy doesn't cause its own parts clearance problems. :shocked2: :surrender: :hmm: :thumbsup:
