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Installing new hardware

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Kabo1313

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I am building a Hawken from a preshaped stock that I have had just sitting in a corner for several years.

I am trying to find parts for it to make a custom build.

So, here is the question....how do you measure the size of the part, for example...a buttplate?
Do you use the "original", before carved to fit, size of the stock? Or, do you use the carved size after you have carved it to fit?

My problem is that since I do not remember the maker of the preshaped Hawken stock, all I can do is measure the stock wood itself and I cannot find any size of butt plate to fit it and it is only 2 years old.

Weird. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
Most pre-shaped stocks are left "large" so that you can shape down to where you want to finish up.

(I am assuming here that the butt is just straight cut and hasn't been "inlet" for a particular butt plate - correct??)

It's not like a "kit" where you just bolt or screw the part on, they leave YOU some latitude to personalize it.

The butt plate you choose will ultimately dictate the shape of the butt up as far as the wrist.

Often times there is enough wood there to allow you to impart a bit of cast-off.

The butt plate you choose should be somewhat "narrower" than the width of the butt, but the plate can extend a little longer - it will be cut/filed back later after the toe plate is installed.

For Hawken's there is (broadly) early and late style plates, so depending on whether your are looking for a J&S or just an S Hawken, you have two basic styles to choose from unless you are trying to emulate a specific rifle.

Alternately, if you are just making a Hawken "flavored" rifle, any "plains rifle" butt plate would look more than fine. I have used an early plains plate on a Hawken because the crescent wasn't as severe as seen on Hawken plates and I don't think it detracted from the look at all.
 
Yes, galamb, you are correct on everything you say. The butt is straight and everything is much, much larger than any hardware I have been able to find. I am going to have to sand approx. 1/2" off of every dimension just to get it to match but oh well.

It is going to take a lot of "sizing" or sanding just to get to the size of the largest toeplate or buttplate I have been able to find though.

Oh well, with that much bulk, of the stock, I have a lot of leeway to put just about any kind of hardware I want on it. :(
 
You shouldn't be trying to size the butt plate/toe plate to the stock, you size the stock to fit your furniture.

That's why it's left oversize, so your rifle can take the shape that you want it to.

If you go with a huge butt plate it will look more like an early fouling piece or a musket than a Hawken.

Pick the Hawken plate you like (early or late) and then shape the stock to fit that plate - and yes, that may mean you are removing 1/2" or more wood - that is "normal".

That's the way it was meant to be done. Pre-carves are not fully shaped like an "off the shelf" kit is - there is lots of work to do.

I believe Track/Pecatonica (and others) estimate that it should take you 100 hours of work to finish one of their pre-carves.

On a first build it could well take 20-30 hours to get the butt plate inlet properly and then maybe another 10 to 20 hours to get the rest of the butt shaped (dictated by the shape of the plate) down to the wrist.

You get quicker with practice, but you should go into this thinking/knowing this is not going to be a weekend project.
 
Lordy, Bo, get yourself a rasp or a block plane or even a plain ol' mill bastard file to remove the bulk of that excess wood. Half inch is a lotta sanding. Unless you're talkin a belt sander, and that can get a little dicey.
 
Yes, I agree MeteorMan. And that Walnut is a pretty hard wood. I have been trying to figure out how to slim it down some without knocking the whole shape out of whack.
 
MeteorMan is right- don't use power tools whilst building muzzle loaders (I make an exception for the dremel for polishing)...

one guy's opinion: free and doubtless well worth the price!
 
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