Issues with new Pietta.

[David Dalton]

I have a brand new Colt Navy Pietta with an issue I can't diagnose. If the hammer is eased down from full **** on a nipple it will catch on something as it is being cocked. The hammer barely moves before it catches. If the hammer is lowered again from where it catches it will lock normally. If the hammer is lowered with more authority it does not catch. Not sure if it is something with the hammer or hand maybe. Ideas? Thanks for any input.

 

[David Dalton]

I have a brand new Colt Navy Pietta with an issue I can't diagnose. If the hammer is eased down from full **** on a nipple it will catch on something as it is being cocked. The hammer barely moves before it catches. If the hammer is lowered again from where it catches it will lock normally. If the hammer is lowered with more authority it does not catch. Not sure if it is something with the hammer or hand maybe. Ideas? Thanks for any input.

I just wanted to add that I have disassembled and checked for burrs.

 

[45D]

I have a brand new Colt Navy Pietta with an issue I can't diagnose. If the hammer is eased down from full **** on a nipple it will catch on something as it is being cocked. The hammer barely moves before it catches. If the hammer is lowered again from where it catches it will lock normally. If the hammer is lowered with more authority it does not catch. Not sure if it is something with the hammer or hand maybe. Ideas? Thanks for any input.

I'm guessing you mean it catches on something when it's being "lowered" ( instead of "cocked"). If that's the case, it's the left bolt arm hitting a "too proud" cam. The reset angle cut to allow the cam to push the arm aside is probably insufficient. Those are the kind of things that heavy mainsprings cover up.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

I have a brand new Colt Navy Pietta with an issue I can't diagnose. If the hammer is eased down from full **** on a nipple it will catch on something as it is being cocked. The hammer barely moves before it catches. If the hammer is lowered again from where it catches it will lock normally. If the hammer is lowered with more authority it does not catch. Not sure if it is something with the hammer or hand maybe. Ideas? Thanks for any input.

I'd check the chimney (hand mortise in frame) hand or ratchet star for any burrs or nicks that are catching also.

 

[russellshaffer]

I think the cnc machining is what leaves sharp edges in all of the cuts. I smoothed everything with a small diamond file including the hammer slot. It's noticeably smoother now. Mine is a 2023 model. I didn't really remove any metal to speak of. Just took off the sharp edges. Take the barrel and cylinder off and it's easier to feel and see whats happening.

 

[David Dalton]

I am thinking that 45D is correct. When I slowly lower the hammer, I can feel it rub about where it feels like the bolt ears would engage the cam. What would be the fix? I appreciate the responses.

 

[45D]

I am thinking that 45D is correct. When I slowly lower the hammer, I can feel it rub about where it feels like the bolt ears would engage the cam. What would be the fix? I appreciate the responses.

Blend the bottom of the cam flush with the hammer. That will remove the lip that the bolt arm is catching on.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Blend the bottom of the cam flush with the hammer. That will remove the lip that the bolt arm is catching on.
View attachment 315143

Mike

This is a new one made and installed last year with the taper flushed out to the body. It's made of 0-1 tool steel red loc-tited into a well fitting hole purchase.

 

[David Dalton]

I blended the cam in a tiny amount and problem solved. I truly appreciate the help.

 

[Smokerr]

That is fantastic to hear

 

[Tenring]

That’s great.

 

[David Dalton]

Well, it looks like I didn't fix it after all. It still works fine until capped and then acts as before. It won't **** when capped but when I play with the front screw (bolt.screw?) And tighten and loosen it, I can hear something click inside and it works normally. I replaced.the slixshot nipples with OEM and the problem persists. Frustrating. Any help is appreciated

 

[wiscoaster]

.... Frustrating. Any help is appreciated

Send it to Mike @45D

 

[David Dalton]

Send it to Mike @45D

Seriously considering doing that.

 

[localfiend]

Well, it looks like I didn't fix it after all. It still works fine until capped and then acts as before. It won't **** when capped but when I play with the front screw (bolt.screw?) And tighten and loosen it, I can hear something click inside and it works normally. I replaced.the slixshot nipples with OEM and the problem persists. Frustrating. Any help is appreciated

The bolt is dropping late in the cycle. When you have a cap installed, the hammer can't travel far enough forward for the bolt leg to drop off the cam.
That thing that's clicking is the bolt leg dropping off the cam when you futz with the screw.

I have had 3 Piettas do this to me this year, one was bad enough that the bolt wouldn't even drop without caps installed if you slowly lowered the hammer.

You will have to remove material from the red mark on the top bolt leg in this first picture. Go slow, you don't want to weaken the bolt leg more than you have to.

The bolt is hardened, so you'll need to use something other than a file. I got by with some small stones of varying grit. I used a sharpie to cover the whole bolt leg, then cycled the action several times. You can then slowly remove material where the drag marks on the leg show up.

Continue adding sharpie, cycling, then removing material until you can hear the bolt drop off the cam when the hammer face is flush with the recoil shield as pictured.

 

[localfiend]

Watch this video. The author goes into detail about this problem. Was quite helpful when I was trying to fix the first of these that were giving me trouble.

 

[45D]

Well, it looks like I didn't fix it after all. It still works fine until capped and then acts as before. It won't **** when capped but when I play with the front screw (bolt.screw?) And tighten and loosen it, I can hear something click inside and it works normally. I replaced.the slixshot nipples with OEM and the problem persists. Frustrating. Any help is appreciated

David, what is happening is you don't have "reset" with a cap installed but you DO have "reset" with no cap. That is fairly common with reproductions. What you need to do is remove material in the left bolt arm where the hammer cam resides. It's the simi- circular cut at the lower side of the rear of the bolt arm. Here's a pic -

The bolt arm (shaded) needs to "reset" on top of the hammer cam. If that doesn't happen, the cylinder will stay locked and you won't be able to cycle the action.

Mike

 

[45D]

The bolt is dropping late in the cycle. When you have a cap installed, the hammer can't travel far enough forward for the bolt leg to drop off the cam.
That thing that's clicking is the bolt leg dropping off the cam when you futz with the screw.

I have had 3 Piettas do this to me this year, one was bad enough that the bolt wouldn't even drop without caps installed if you slowly lowered the hammer.

You will have to remove material from the red mark on the top bolt leg in this first picture. Go slow, you don't want to weaken the bolt leg more than you have to.


View attachment 350882

The bolt is hardened, so you'll need to use something other than a file. I got by with some small stones of varying grit. I used a sharpie to cover the whole bolt leg, then cycled the action several times. You can then slowly remove material where the drag marks on the leg show up.

Continue adding sharpie, cycling, then removing material until you can hear the bolt drop off the cam when the hammer face is flush with the recoil shield as pictured.

View attachment 350883

Local fiend, your description of "what" is happening is wrong but you're correct in the picture of what needs to be addressed.

The bolt arm "drops off" of the cam when the hammer is near full **** (bolt drop). As the hammer falls, the hammer cam pushes the bolt arm to the side as it passes by. The bolt arm then snaps back over the cam so that the cam can pick up the arm to unlock the cylinder and do it all over again. This part of the cycle seems to be the most "mystical" aspect of "what goes on" in a Colts action cycle.

Mike

 

[localfiend]

Local fiend, your description of "what" is happening is wrong but you're correct in the picture of what needs to be addressed.

The bolt arm "drops off" of the cam when the hammer is near full **** (bolt drop). As the hammer falls, the hammer cam pushes the bolt arm to the side as it passes by. The bolt arm then snaps back over the cam so that the cam can pick up the arm to unlock the cylinder and do it all over again. This part of the cycle seems to be the most "mystical" aspect of "what goes on" in a Colts action cycle.

Mike

Pretty sure we're saying the exact same thing, just with different terminology. The bolt arm/leg or whatever is dropping off the cam too late in the cycle.

My terminology may not be correct, I'm new to these things. Fixed a lot of problems on them so far though. Would be nice if they shipped in better condition.


David, if you want to verify things, open up the gun, and remove the trigger but leave the bolt installed. That makes it really easy to see what's going on.

Here's a picture of the bolt arm/leg just before it drops, you can see how it's bent up and just barely resting on the cam pin thing.

Here's a pic of the bolt arm/leg after it's dropped off the edge. You want it to drop off at or just before the hammer face is even with the recoil shield in the picture I showed in my previous post.

I found it helpful to just leave the trigger off the receiver when checking for timing. Made it easy to see, and you don't need to lot of parts in the gun while this is happening. You will want to install the trigger/bolt spring though to make sure the timing is accurate when doing your checks. If it's off, or you're using finger pressure on the bolt, things will be inconsistent.

 

[45D]

Pretty sure we're saying the exact same thing, just with different terminology. The bolt arm/leg or whatever is dropping off the cam too late in the cycle.

My terminology may not be correct, I'm new to these things. Fixed a lot of problems on them so far though. Would be nice if they shipped in better condition.


David, if you want to verify things, open up the gun, and remove the trigger but leave the bolt installed. That makes it really easy to see what's going on.

Here's a picture of the bolt arm/leg just before it drops, you can see how it's bent up and just barely resting on the cam pin thing.

View attachment 350930


Here's a pic of the bolt arm/leg after it's dropped off the edge. You want it to drop off at or just before the hammer face is even with the recoil shield in the picture I showed in my previous post.

View attachment 350931

I found it helpful to just leave the trigger off the receiver when checking for timing. Made it easy to see, and you don't need to lot of parts in the gun while this is happening. You will want to install the trigger/bolt spring though to make sure the timing is accurate when doing your checks. If it's off, or you're using finger pressure on the bolt, things will be inconsistent.

Actually, you're saying it backwards.
As the hammer is drawn back, the bolt arm is ON the hammer cam and it stays on the cam until it literally falls off. That would be "bolt drop" and shortly after that will be "full ****". When the trigger is pulled, the hammer will move forward and as it falls, the cam will push the bolt arm to the side which will allow the hammer to continue. As the hammer nears the end of its travel, the hand will select the next ratchet tooth (1st click) and then the bolt arm will snap back (2nd click) on top of the cam (reset). That is the "click sequence" of the returning hammer.

Mike