Jeff Tanner moulds

[Rifleman1776]

I ordered a set of .590" moulds from Jeff Tanner ten days ago. They arrived today. For coming across the pond and custom made, that is extraordinary service. Jeff was a true gentleman to do business with. Like an old friend. Only downside, the small Lyman handles I had on the shelf won't fit. Will have to get a set of large handles. Moulds look great. I have the lead and am anxious to cast up a batch for the fowler. BTW, my Jackie Brown .62 cal./20 ga barrel measure .608" on the id. Figures since the 36" barrel only measures 31" long.

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[Eric Krewson]

I bought a set of .700 for my fowler, very nice mould.

 

[hanshi]

I second your post; he is a great guy to do business with. I ordered a .590" mold from him a couple years ago. Brass molds cast nice ball and I just happened to have the correct Lyman handles for it. My smoothbore is tight and I like to shoot WW ball. Ball from my Lee cast .606" with WW and can't be patched. They are excellent, however, in bare ball loads.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I just happened to have the correct Lyman handles for it.

I thought I did. But, unfortunately mine are too small and mould won't close properly. So, not I'm searching for a pair of large handles. Will probably go with Lee because of price.

 

[John May]

I had the same problem with a set of my handles but I just re-drilled them closer to the end and they work fine. Just a thought...

 

[Steve Rosen]

+1 on Jeff's moulds, I have a 0.362" he made for me to match the bore of my FWB History No. 1 underhammer pistol.

 

[longcruise]

How close do his molds cast compared to the requested size? Thinking of having a .50 bored out to .52 or .53 and he might be "da man" for the mold.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I believe my .700 casts a.702 ball, mighty close.

 

[Steve Rosen]

The balls that I have cast from the mould I got from Jeff measure 0.362" using my (admittedly inexpensive) digital micrometer.

 

[longcruise]

That's very close! Most of my lee molds are off more than that.

 

[John May]

If you check out his web-site he makes a really simple but highly effective powder measure that saves so much time loading for competition.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I had the same problem with a set of my handles but I just re-drilled them closer to the end and they work fine. Just a thought...

:hmm: One of those simple ideas that makes me embarrased I didn't think of it. :redface:
Will do. Can't hurt anything. Thanks. Great suggestion. :thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

I had the same problem with a set of my handles but I just re-drilled them closer to the end and they work fine. Just a thought...

Unfortunately, it did not work for me. Still would not close properly. I just received a set of large Lee handles and all is now well. :grin:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Well, just tried the mould. All is not well. Balls stick inside something fierce. I have to pry out with an awl. Not good. I did spray with a mould release. But, will let it cool and use a different release and try again. Did learn quickly that, with the mould being cylindrical, if you let lead round down the sides that kinda grips the ball inside. Be careful with the pour and make only a tiny puddle on top. Just got four made in time it would usually be about 40. Update will be posted when/if I get this issue figgered out.

 

[tozzybum]

we use mould release and it just burns off after 3/4 mouldings at work.have you tried aluminium fishing moulds,ive got a 15mm x 7 slot mould bored out using a ball end mill to .62thou by a kind man in our machine shop.so i can do about 70 balls an hour and the lead doesnt stick.doing 7 balls in 1 go is good news.at £14 for the mould and £10 for the mill =bargin.also as the lead is melted in a steel ladle no heat reaction problems .325 balls moulded so far and 17 duffs .i dont use handles thou ,2 big spring clamps help seal the mould atb

 

[agill]

Try lubing the mold hinges with paraffin wax.

 

[Zonie]

Well, just tried the mould. All is not well. Balls stick inside something fierce. I have to pry out with an awl. Not good. I did spray with a mould release. But, will let it cool and use a different release and try again.

If you have one laying around, you might try lighting a candle and holding the exposed cavity's down in the flame.

This will "smoke" the mold but (IMO) more importantly, because you used a candle, the smoke will contain some unburned paraffin wax.

The wax on the surface should guarantee the hardened lead will not stick to the surface.
It works for me. :grin:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Well, just tried the mould. All is not well. Balls stick inside something fierce. I have to pry out with an awl. Not good. I did spray with a mould release. But, will let it cool and use a different release and try again.

If you have one laying around, you might try lighting a candle and holding the exposed cavity's down in the flame.

This will "smoke" the mold but (IMO) more importantly, because you used a candle, the smoke will contain some unburned paraffin wax.

The wax on the surface should guarantee the hardened lead will not stick to the surface.
It works for me. :grin:

Yep. In the past I have done the candle thing and will try. However, the sprue is quite long. I may drill the 'puddle' a bit deeper to shorten it. Haven't done that yet. I need to think about that move more before I screw up the mould entirely.

 

[BrownBear]

..."smoke" the mold....

That's always worked a treat for me with Tanner molds.

As for oversize sprues, I just use either one-sided sidecutters or gate cutters. Either lets me cut right up flush with the ball. Excess lead goes right back into the pot.

All pretty standard stuff for lead casting. I cast 100's of pounds of fishing weights up to 32 oz each year along with balls and bullets, so it's standard stuff close at hand for me.

 

[mooman76]

If you have to pry the RBs out, it sounds like it may be cut off center. I've had sticky moulds before but never one I had to pry the bullets out and a RB should even be easier.