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Jim Chambers Flintlock Pistol

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regansm

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A gunsmith friend of mine is assembling a Chambers pistol for me and he said that based on the style, and where he had to pin the trigger, it would take a 800 pound Gorilla to pull it. He said some info on the internet indicated that this is not uncommon with this kit. Does anyone have any experience with this Chambers kit and if so, did you have the same problem and how did you solve it. This is the only thing hanging up the completion of my pistol and I sure am itchin' to get 'er done.

Shawnee
 
Why don't you go right to the sourse,

Jim Chambers Flintlocks, Ltd.
116 Sam's Branch Road
Candler, North Carolina 28715
ph. 828/667-8361 (Monday - Friday 9AM - 5PM)
fax 828/665-0852 (anytime)
email: [email protected]
 
I have a fine pistol made from a Jim Chambers kit (as far as I know he only offers one pistol - a late 18th c style with a long barrel). I have never measured the pull weight but it is fairly light - acceptable for target work and way below an 18 lb monkey, much less an 800 lb gorilla. As mentioned earlier, Jim or Barb may have some good advise. PM me if you want any details on mine.
 
Swampy, The person working on my pistol, who by the way has built 5 different Chambers kits, emailed Jim for help but got no response. I was going to contact Jim myself but Marvin asked me to hold off as he had a few ideas to try.

The problem as he explained today is that because of the considerable grip curve, and how soon the curve begins at the back of the lock panel, there is no room to adjust where you pin the trigger and where it would have to be would give no leverage on the sear bar. He says he needs to get the pivot point within 1/8" to 1/4" from where the trigger bar would contact the sear bar and it can't be done, or even close.

He said that upon further review of the picture on Chamber's site, it looks like where they inlet the barrel and inlet the lock on my stock appears to be farther back than on the picture which would account for the lack of adjustment available. There also doesn't seem to be as much curve as on mine either. I don't really know how to really confirm it though.

Coot, I may take you up on your PM offer if we can't come up with something.

Anyway, thanks for your responses. Shawnee
 
1/8" to 1/4" is too close to the pin. This will give the trigger a lot of creep ie long pull.
Should be about 3/8" and pinned high, as high as the sear screw is ideal.
 
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