Big Iron
36 Cal.
There are some Jonathon Browning Mountain Rifle Mainsprings avalible on ebay. There a few other parts too. If you have one of these rifles order a spare. I did.
BI
BI
They look good. I think they may be new old stock.My second post (just joined) was going to be about those springs. I have a JBMR on the way, and I will need to take it apart to remediate some rust. I ordered one of those springs, and I see the seller has some other JBMR parts as well.
How is the quality of the spring? Would it be worth taking the original off, putting the repro on for shooting and keeping the original for a "rainy day"? What's the best way to remove/replace the mainspring to not damage the spring?
I really like that rifle. Have two, a .50 and a 54 cal. The .50 was purchased this year, unfired! It's not unfired anymore!They look good. I think they may be new old stock.
BI
IF you uncock the hammer and let it move all the way forward, you can then lift it off.They look good. I think they may be new old stock.
BI
I really like that rifle. Have two, a .50 and a 54 cal. The .50 was purchased this year, unfired! It's not unfired anymore!
BI
The Pyrodex will work, I most often use 2 FG Black or T 7. It probably won't be the best with conicals. It has a slow round ball twist but it won't hurt to try. My .50 is very accurate with 70 grains of Black 2FG. a over powder wad, and a patched .490 RB with a 15 thousandths patch. A .495 and a 10 thousandths patch works too. The over powder wad makes a big difference in accuracy.Mine is a .50, what loading do you shoot? I have some Pyrodex RS but no round balls or patches (I bought a coworker's inline Knights and it came with Pyrodex pellets, RS, and sabots) - so I need some balls and patches. How about conicals?
The rifle has a patent breach so you need to make sure you clean the breach channel too after shooting. I use a .30 cal brush with a patch on it. This is a less than bore diameter channel in the breach.
BI
The bore probably needs some work too by the looks of the nipple and drum. I would give the bore a good cleaning with Ballistol and a brass brush then patches and more Ballistol.View attachment 257750
Picture from the auction, there is rust from lack of cleaning around the nipple and drum. The screw looks like it hasn't been removed before, so I may have to take the nipple out and put some Kroil in there for a little while. I have some Birchwood Casey Plum Brown, so I think it will cover any bare metal that I end up with after cleaning this mess up.
Sad but true. I think the reason you do run across unfired guns is because people don't want to clean them.I always figure, if the previous owner couldn't be bothered to clean the nipple area, such an easy job, he probably didn't do much cleaning of the bore, either.
Don't frustrate yourself trying to use pellets in a side lock. Tried it once on a TC Hawken. Didn't work well. Didn't work on the Scout inline either.Mine is a .50, what loading do you shoot? I have some Pyrodex RS but no round balls or patches (I bought a coworker's inline Knights and it came with Pyrodex pellets, RS, and sabots) - so I need some balls and patches. How about conicals?
I can see that being an issue on a sidelock. The 44 caliber ones work great in my Remington NMW clone because it is a short direct path from the cap to the hollow center of the pellet.Don't frustrate yourself trying to use pellets in a side lock. Tried it once on a TC Hawken. Didn't work well. Didn't work on the Scout inline either.
Definitely not a good idea to dry fire any percussion gun. I once had a ASM Walker clone that had never been shot but obviously "played with" as the nipple was flattened out and the hammer had a ring worn into it.Thanks, I ordered a couple. If you dry fire a JBMR, the spring will break, sometimes.
I don't dry fire...
Yup, I ordered one a while ago for mine and glad to have a good spare. Also bought a bag of 6 sear springs off Ebay.My springs showed up yesterday. They appear to be factory new originals, compared to the ones in my rifles.
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