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- Feb 5, 2012
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BOY, I MISSED THESE SOMEHOW.
CAN SOMEONE SHARE THE RECIPIES WITH ME.
MANY THANKS!
CAN SOMEONE SHARE THE RECIPIES WITH ME.
MANY THANKS!
-
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Juice & Moose Snot Recipies
- Thread starter Rokon
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Look at these:
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water or a double boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups. Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
D. Taylor Sapergia’s Bullet Lube
I like shooting the smooth bored PA fowler. I use the heavier charge (85 grs. FFg) because it shoots where I want at all ranges out to 109 yds. (our farthest target on the trail). You are good to go with the .595 and .600 balls, and I like your choice of patch material. I usually use saliva - lots of it - in the summer, but in the winter, I switch too a lube with methyl hydrate to keep it from freezing.
I use precut patches ~1 1/8" soaked with the following mixture: I fill an Appleton's rum bottle, having consumed the great rum, with winter strength windshield washer antifreeze, to within a couple inches of the top. I then add a couple ounces of Murphy Oil soap, and a couple ounces of Neatsfoot Oil. Olive or Canola oil is just as good. This stuff does not blend into a combined liquid, and requires shaking just before you use it. I fill a Sucrets tin with the precut patches I'm going to shoot that day, shake the bottle, and pour it over the patches. When they have absorbed as much as they will, pour the extra back into the bottle, and then squeeze out the patches in the tin a little to remove the overflow as well. But I leave them very wet. With these soaked patches, you should be able to shoot all day and never have to wipe the bore. And loading is not hard with a wooden rod.
Jeff Brown’s Patch Lube
10 grams of lanolin and melt it in the microwave. Add 50ml of isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Rubbing alcohol might suffice though it is 70/30 alcohol/water from memory.* Stir well and then reheat for about 20-30 seconds just until it boils. This stabilizes the mixture. Spray onto patches and let it dry. Shoot. You essentially end up with a very thin coverage of the lanolin as the alcohol evaporates.
*Use 20% more alcohol if the rubbing alcohol is 70%.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water or a double boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups. Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
D. Taylor Sapergia’s Bullet Lube
I like shooting the smooth bored PA fowler. I use the heavier charge (85 grs. FFg) because it shoots where I want at all ranges out to 109 yds. (our farthest target on the trail). You are good to go with the .595 and .600 balls, and I like your choice of patch material. I usually use saliva - lots of it - in the summer, but in the winter, I switch too a lube with methyl hydrate to keep it from freezing.
I use precut patches ~1 1/8" soaked with the following mixture: I fill an Appleton's rum bottle, having consumed the great rum, with winter strength windshield washer antifreeze, to within a couple inches of the top. I then add a couple ounces of Murphy Oil soap, and a couple ounces of Neatsfoot Oil. Olive or Canola oil is just as good. This stuff does not blend into a combined liquid, and requires shaking just before you use it. I fill a Sucrets tin with the precut patches I'm going to shoot that day, shake the bottle, and pour it over the patches. When they have absorbed as much as they will, pour the extra back into the bottle, and then squeeze out the patches in the tin a little to remove the overflow as well. But I leave them very wet. With these soaked patches, you should be able to shoot all day and never have to wipe the bore. And loading is not hard with a wooden rod.
Jeff Brown’s Patch Lube
10 grams of lanolin and melt it in the microwave. Add 50ml of isopropyl alcohol (IPA). Rubbing alcohol might suffice though it is 70/30 alcohol/water from memory.* Stir well and then reheat for about 20-30 seconds just until it boils. This stabilizes the mixture. Spray onto patches and let it dry. Shoot. You essentially end up with a very thin coverage of the lanolin as the alcohol evaporates.
*Use 20% more alcohol if the rubbing alcohol is 70%.
Spit.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2012
- Messages
- 326
- Reaction score
- 36
Maven--Thank you!
Here's a link to the recipes for my concoctions.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/
Last edited by a moderator:
jtmattison
70 Cal.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2004
- Messages
- 4,686
- Reaction score
- 8
I can tell you Stumpy's recipe's are top notch! Both work awesome. The Moose Juice is an awesome lube/solvent for all day shooting. The Moose Snot is great for hunting/shooting too.
:thumbsup:
HD
:thumbsup:
HD
It might get sloppy but it shouldn't go liquid. Can't really say, though. 110°F would likely kill all life forms hereabouts as we'd have 100% humidity along with it and drown.
I've loaded and reloaded at -15°F and it is smearable and not overly stiff at that temp.
Never again. :shocked2:
I've loaded and reloaded at -15°F and it is smearable and not overly stiff at that temp.
Never again. :shocked2:
I suppose the Snot could. If that seemed like something you were likely to do.
