Kibler Colonial Builders?

[user 58311]

Anyone else building a Colonial notice the tang bolt geometry is pulling the barrel forward when it is tightened. After inletting the barrel and the trigger plate I installed and tightened the tang bolt and noticed the barrel moved forward creating a gap at the end of the tang and barrel. Loosened the screw and tapped the barrel back, but when the screw is retightened it creates a gap again. Best I can measure the tang screw angle is 83 degrees from the barrel. Being 7 degrees off of 90 would pull towards the front. I don't know if the lock bolt going through the tang is a tight enough fit to keep this from happening. If not, I guess I could make a new trigger plate and drill the hole further back to get closer to 90 degrees. Any input from Colonial builders would be great. Thanks,

 

[Dwight Rutherford]

I didn’t have that issue when I assembled my Kibler Colonial. I’d give Jim a call and ask what he suggests.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

I didn’t have that issue when I assembled my Kibler Colonial. I’d give Jim a call and ask what he suggests.

Roger that. Before you do anything, call Jim. Semper Fi.

 

[sleepingbulldog]

Mine did not do that. Maybe the inlet for the tang is sloped somewhat? I agree with the above posters, call Mr. Kibler, he’ll get you squared away.

 

[TDM]

Agree with the others to call Kibler. I’m fighting the same issue on the trade gun I’m building, but have no one to blame but myself!

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

WOW, I just opened my Woodsrunner Kit I received last week. This is not a 'Quick Ship Kit'. I waited 6 months for this kit. I was working on other guns, so it took me time to get to it. Well, it has a 3/4" chip of wood out of the lock panel above the frizzen Spring and drill runout at the triggerguard. This is the 6th kit I've bought from Jim. First time I've had an issue. Semper Fi.

 

[dave_person]

Anyone else building a Colonial notice the tang bolt geometry is pulling the barrel forward when it is tightened. After inletting the barrel and the trigger plate I installed and tightened the tang bolt and noticed the barrel moved forward creating a gap at the end of the tang and barrel. Loosened the screw and tapped the barrel back, but when the screw is retightened it creates a gap again. Best I can measure the tang screw angle is 83 degrees from the barrel. Being 7 degrees off of 90 would pull towards the front. I don't know if the lock bolt going through the tang is a tight enough fit to keep this from happening. If not, I guess I could make a new trigger plate and drill the hole further back to get closer to 90 degrees. Any input from Colonial builders would be great. Thanks,

Hi,
The angle of the bolt is correct relative to the barrel. However, it should be perpendicular to the surface of the tang, which should be bent down a little to conform with the stock. The problem likely is the front of the head of the bolt is hitting the front of the countersunk or counter bored hole, pushing the barrel forward when tightened. Try simply turning the diameter of the bolt head a little smaller so it does not contact the front of the counter sunk hole.

dave

 

[user 58311]

That indeed appears to be the issue. Thanks Dave. I'm sure if the threaded hole in the trigger plate was a half a hole back toward the butt plate it would peachy.

 

[user 58311]

You dah man Dave! I chucked the screw in a drill and took off .015'' total diameter and I think that will take care of it.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Hi,
The angle of the bolt is correct relative to the barrel. However, it should be perpendicular to the surface of the tang, which should be bent down a little to conform with the stock. The problem likely is the front of the head of the bolt is hitting the front of the countersunk or counter bored hole, pushing the barrel forward when tightened. Try simply turning the diameter of the bolt head a little smaller so it does not contact the front of the counter sunk hole.

dave

Nice!! Good suggestion Dave. Semper Fi.

 

[James Kibler]

WOW, I just opened my Woodsrunner Kit I received last week. This is not a 'Quick Ship Kit'. I waited 6 months for this kit. I was working on other guns, so it took me time to get to it. Well, it has a 3/4" chip of wood out of the lock panel above the frizzen Spring and drill runout at the triggerguard. This is the 6th kit I've bought from Jim. First time I've had an issue. Semper Fi.

Call Bree at 330-551-5844. Chipped wood is a problem. If the ramrod hole broke into the guard extension inlet, this isn’t a problem unless it is extremely severe.

 

[gemmer]

Anyone else building a Colonial notice the tang bolt geometry is pulling the barrel forward when it is tightened. After inletting the barrel and the trigger plate I installed and tightened the tang bolt and noticed the barrel moved forward creating a gap at the end of the tang and barrel. Loosened the screw and tapped the barrel back, but when the screw is retightened it creates a gap again. Best I can measure the tang screw angle is 83 degrees from the barrel. Being 7 degrees off of 90 would pull towards the front. I don't know if the lock bolt going through the tang is a tight enough fit to keep this from happening. If not, I guess I could make a new trigger plate and drill the hole further back to get closer to 90 degrees. Any input from Colonial builders would be great. Thanks,

 

[gemmer]

I had the same problem. Not a big deal. I filled the hole in the plate with a cut off spare tang bolt with Loctite Black Max in the threads. Then, I redrilled the bolt hole and tapped it with the barrel in place. No impact on the countersink in the tang.

 

[geb324]

I found it was the Lock bolt going thru the breech plug opened up the hole in the breech plug problem solved.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Guys,
I am not sure what Jim Kibler would advise but based on my experience, I don't want the fit of the lock bolt through the breech plug bolster to be too precise. I'd rather have a little slop in the hole because the bolt could be hammered backward by the recoil of the barrel if the fit is tight. I am not suggesting large movement but enough owing to compression of the wood at the breech during recoil to crack the stock at the bolt or more typically, at the rear corner of the barrel channel. I learned this the hard way and now make sure that bolt has a loose fit through the bolster.

dave

 

[James Kibler]

Yes, the hole through the breech plug is set-up to be clearance. There can be a couple causes of potential interference. First, the barrel might not be fully back and fully down in the inlet. Second, I've seen people cut material out of the breech and cause the barrel to move. Sometimes, those who start cutting at the breech are not quite sure of what they are doing and just sort of start removing wood. Finally, sometimes there is variations in machining and there could be a small misalignment of the holes. In this case, the easy fix is to just drill the hole out a bit more.

I'll say, any misalignment is only applicable on our SMR or Colonial kits. We've changed manufacturing processes on our Woodsrunner and alignment on just about everything is near perfect.

Jim

 

[Reds]

Will you be changing manufacturing processes on the SMR kits anytime soon. Would like to get an idea on timeline before ordering my Dream Rifle .45 SMR!!!

 

[James Kibler]

The Colonial and SMR will stay being made on the same equipment for the foreseeable future. Though not perfect by our standards, it still makes a great product. Additionally we are coming along well with the fowler project, so that is pretty exciting. These English guns are just fantastic in terms of style, design etc. All new kits will be made on the more advanced machinery.