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GAHUNTER60

40 Cal
Joined
Nov 10, 2020
Messages
164
Reaction score
300
Location
Gainesville, GA
Dang they`re Good! I've got about 250-300 shots behind me now without a single failure to ignite the powder in the pan -- and I'm only on my second flint! The only flash in the pan I've had was due to a goop buildup on the plug in a long duration match -- easily remedied with a plug scraper.

The main reason I'm so impressed is I used to watch folks at the range shooting flinters have misfire after misfire, usually with a failure to ignite the pan powder. One guy explained that these failures were just a fact of life with flinters and part of the sport. He also said that he only got 15-20 shots out of a flint before he had to change it. Watching these guys made such an impression on me that I shied away from flintlocks for 50 years!

When I finally broke down and bought my Kibler, I did so knowing that I would have problems with misfires. Happily, I could not have been more wrong. Knowing what I know now, wish I'd gotten into flinters years ago.
 
It's a round-faced, English lock, according to the invoice (I wouldn't know the difference).

When I bought it, I ordered two dozen black English flints off the internet, along with two extra of the French amber flints carried by Kibler. So far, I'm on my second of the amber flints, however, the first one was still sparking good when I took it off. I only replaced it because it was getting a little short and fat after several knappings, and I didn't want to risk having to change it mid string in a match.

At the rate I'm going, I'll have to include the unused English flints in my will, as it seems I have a lifetime-plus supply of them! :thumb:
 
It's a round-faced, English lock, according to the invoice (I wouldn't know the difference).

When I bought it, I ordered two dozen black English flints off the internet, along with two extra of the French amber flints carried by Kibler. So far, I'm on my second of the amber flints, however, the first one was still sparking good when I took it off. I only replaced it because it was getting a little short and fat after several knappings, and I didn't want to risk having to change it mid string in a match.

At the rate I'm going, I'll have to include the unused English flints in my will, as it seems I have a lifetime-plus supply of them! :thumb:
Nice! I think Ill try one of their Kettland locks on my Southern Mountain Rifle build. I have to source the other parts because I want at least a .50 cal for hunting, and they only go up to .45. Im sure the smaller calibers are more common to that style of rifle though.
 
I finally got around to shooting my SMR yesterday. Holy cow! I like it a lot!

One thing I noticed, though, is the lock sits a fair way away from the barrel. Like almost a thirty second of an inch. Shouldn't it be snug against the barrel?

I bought this from an member here who had it assembled by a builder. Nicely done plain SMR in walnut and 40 caliber. I'm smiling, but also wondering if I need to inlet the lock deeper so it fits snug angainst the barrel.
 
One thing I noticed, though, is the lock sits a fair way away from the barrel. Like almost a thirty second of an inch. Shouldn't it be snug against the barrel?

I'm smiling, but also wondering if I need to inlet the lock deeper so it fits snug angainst the barrel.

You should inlet it so it is tight against the barrel, just a little at one time.
 

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You should inlet it so it is tight against the barrel, just a little at one time.
shave the inlet, taking shavings so thin you can see through them! concentrate on the upper 2/3rds of the inlet. transfer media is your friend.

forget the shaving. you can most likely get contact by scraping. 1/32nd is fuzz scraped off .
 
Thanks, guys. I figured that's what I needed to do. The guy that assembled this didn't do anything extra at all. I'm not brave enough to try to add a patch box at this time, but I will be adding a toe plate. The frizzen spring feels too strong, but the lock works so well as it is I won't be messing with it.
 
I've been told that locks have been blown off a rifle by powder getting spilled into the gap mentioned and allowed to build up to the point it ignites. Sounds pretty scary.
have heard the same, and i suppose it could happen, but the real problem is the powder and fouling getting into the lock. being corrosive (the fouling) it can ruin a good lock in the worst situation and just reduce the efficiency in the best.
 
Hi,
This is fun to read. Folks are actually experiencing what a well designed and made flintlock can do. I am convinced that many, maybe most, modern flintlock shooters never experienced a good lock and don't really know what they should expect. The lock below is a Chamber round-faced English lock that fired 671 rounds before a misfire using up 10 flints.

H9rfAIq.jpg


I even posted this lock sparking with a rounded piece of quartz.

QWiM7hA.jpg

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Flintlocks should be snug against the barrel. On a Kibler kit there is no excuse for any gaps except inexperience or ignorance, or both.

dave
 

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