L&r lock on tc

[Jason holgate]

Thoughts on a l&r lock on a tc do I have to blur the lock???? Better ignition I'm sure worth $250 over the stock factory??? Thoughts .......tia

 

[APG]

I put a L&R rpl lock on a Traditions kentucky rifle and I'm really happy with it. I didn't really have any problems with the Traditions lock but the L&R lock does seem to be faster and it is more reliable.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Every time this topic comes up, I caution people considering one of these locks that they are not a drop-in by a long shot, how good are your gun building skills? All TCs aren't the same, some people have some minor fitting to install one of these locks but most have to make some serious adjustments to get one in.

I had to move the barrel back to position the touch hole correctly, plug and drill a new lock bolt hole, grind off the back of the hooked breech for the new lock bolt position to clear, cut off soem of the underrib to move the barrel back, do a lot of inletting for the L&R to go in the TC mortise and shim the back of the lock mortise because there was a gap.

It came out OK, I grayed the lock instead of bluing it. The lock is a sparker and much better than TC lock.

 

[Splitear]

Thoughts on a l&r lock on a tc do I have to blur the lock???? Better ignition I'm sure worth $250 over the stock factory??? Thoughts .......tia

I dropped an L&R replacement percussion lock in my TC Hawken when the fly wore out on the old one. I had to do a little bit of fitting, but it wasn't much. Good learning experience. I don't notice a lot of difference between the stock and replacement lock, outside of the stock wasn't working when I replaced it

 

[Jason holgate]

Excellent onfo that is exactly what I was looking to know .....maybe have the tc lock tuned blueprinted is a better option

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

I just inlet a L&R into my Kentucky rifle from traditions. There was alot of wood removal, make sure to clear adequate space behind the sear, other wise the lock will not lock into full. Either the sear will have to be ground back or wood removed or a little of both. I removed wood, she now works as she is supposed to. Had to glue in shims to fill gaps, but after trimming and sanding, you can't see the repair. All in all, I am glad that I installed the lock, just don't anticipate a plug and play.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Because the lock bolt on the L&R threads into a blind socket on the lock's bridal I could have possibly spared myself a lot of grief if I had initially screwed the TC lock bolt into this bridal socket to see how the lock fit in terms with the TC inlet and worked from there. I inletted the lock plate first and then found out the lockbolt wasn't even close to being in the right place to thread into the socket on the bridal. Drilling a new lock bolt hole opened a whole new can of worms.

 

[TrophyGuy]

Because the lock bolt on the L&R threads into a blind socket on the lock's bridal I could have possibly spared myself a lot of grief if I had initially screwed the TC lock bolt into this bridal socket to see how the lock fit in terms with the TC inlet and worked from there. I inletted the lock plate first and then found out the lockbolt wasn't even close to being in the right place to thread into the socket on the bridal. Drilling a new lock bolt hole opened a whole new can of worms.

After all the fore and aft adjustments, are you happy with the vertical position of the touch hole, i.e. is it in a good "sunset" position adjacent to the pan? The other question I have is trigger pull. I have a dead stock T/C FL Hawken that I have worked over a lot to improve the non-set trigger pull, to the point that I am probably cutting through surface hardening on sear faces. I've worn out a frizzen dry firing while working trigger issues. Does the L&R lock have a good non-set trigger pull?

I'm trying to decide if it's worth $250 and bit of fiddling to improve my pot metal collection of parts.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

After all the fore and aft adjustments, are you happy with the vertical position of the touch hole, i.e. is it in a good "sunset" position adjacent to the pan? The other question I have is trigger pull. I have a dead stock T/C FL Hawken that I have worked over a lot to improve the non-set trigger pull, to the point that I am probably cutting through surface hardening on sear faces. I've worn out a frizzen dry firing while working trigger issues. Does the L&R lock have a good non-set trigger pull?

I'm trying to decide if it's worth $250 and bit of fiddling to improve my pot metal collection of parts.

Personally, I like the L&R, thought there was nothing wrong with the traditions lock. I do like the trigger pull on the L&R, and over all I think that the L&R, is a bit smoother, but again this is all personal preference. The only thing about the L&R, is that you will have to remove alot of wood, I was honestly surprised at how much I ended up having to remove. For that reason, I may honestly would have just kept the stock lock. The pan on the L&R, it matches or mates perfectly to the touch hole, and is perfectly square to the barrel flat, a perfect fit, but again, you will be removing alot of wood from the lock mortise, so make sure you check often for fit and alignment.

Best

Ryan

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

Like Eric Krewson stated it can be done but it,s lots of work.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Like Eric Krewson stated it can be done but it,s lots of work.

Yup, just take your time, and it will come out nice. Just takes patience and worth the effort.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Excellent onfo that is exactly what I was looking to know .....maybe have the tc lock tuned blueprinted is a better option

Tuned and blueprinted? What the hell is that?

 

[Eric Krewson]

Another thing I ran into; the first L&R RPL lock I bought on line had a huge casting flaw in the nose of the lockplate, I sent this lock back to L&R. They sent me a lock with an improperly installed **** that was just hitting a glancing blow on the **** stop on the top of the lock plate. I sent this lock back, they repaired the seating of the **** on the tumbler grinding a huge burr on the tumbler shaft in the process, they pressed the tumbler back into the lock plate burr and all. When I got the lock back the tumbler wouldn't even rotate.

I gave up on L&R's lack of QC and their inability to correct my lock and fixed it myself, my $180 lock was up to $210 by now with the cost of sending the lock back twice.

This was about 10 years ago, perhaps L&R have picked up their game since.

 

[Flintleather]

I’ve heard of balanced n blueprinted, only on motors though.