L & R lock question, picture

[Mule333]

Question is, is this close enough or should I take it on down completely flat?

Seems as though I’m taking off a lot of metal. Not sure if the tolerance levels should be that precise.

My first build… FYI…see pictures please.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Don't worry too much about the outside. It is it inside that matters. As long as you can get the inside area flat where the tumbler and sear fit that should be enough. It is always almost impossible to flatten behind the main spring because there usually is a deep depression around the L&R stamp. Looking at your photo, I would say just polish it up from there.

dave

 

[Mule333]

Hi,
Don't worry too much about the outside. It is it inside that matters. As long as you can get the inside area flat where the tumbler and sear fit that should be enough. It is always almost impossible to flatten behind the main spring because there usually is a deep depression around the L&R stamp. Looking at your photo, I would say just polish it up from there.

dave

Thanks Dave,
I really, really appreciate your advice.

 

[Mule333]

It is always almost impossible to flatten behind the main spring because there usually is a deep depression around the L&R stamp

YES…. I was most concerned about that.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
You can see the same issue on this L&R lock that I worked over.

Just hang in there. They can be turned into good locks but it takes a frightful amount of work.

dave

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

With the cost of locks thats lots of work. Who produces the best lock with the least amount of refitting? Excluding of course Kibler.....

 

[Mule333]

Others have mentioned Chambers.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
The single best lock made commercially today is the early Germanic lock by Chris Laubach. Kibler's are close and then Jim Chambers' locks. The rest are distant cousins.

dave

 

[BadDaditood]

Hi,
Don't worry too much about the outside. It is it inside that matters. As long as you can get the inside area flat where the tumbler and sear fit that should be enough. It is always almost impossible to flatten behind the main spring because there usually is a deep depression around the L&R stamp. Looking at your photo, I would say just polish it up from there.

dave

I hope it’s my eye and/or camera angle but is the tumbler hole dished out?
How would you go about fixing that?
(I know what I would do but it’s probably wrong!! ;-) )

 

[Mule333]

I hope it’s my eye and/or camera angle but is the tumbler hole dished out?
How would you go about fixing that?
(I know what I would do but it’s probably wrong!! ;-) )

Yeah… it’s not quite right… I plan on hitting it a couple more licks. On the inside, that is…

At the moment I’m drilling the touch hole.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Mule333,
I urge you not to drill the touch hole until the end. You can mark its position on the barrel but I would inlet all the components first and then drill that hole.

dave

 

[SDSmlf]

Hi Mule333,
I urge you not to drill the touch hole until the end. You can mark its position on the barrel but I would inlet all the components first and then drill that hole.

dave

Agree 100%. Touch hole or liner hole drilling is the last thing before final finish work and/or test firing.

 

[user 34300]

"With the cost of locks thats lots of work. Who produces the best lock with the least amount of refitting? Excluding of course Kibler....."

Why not Kibler?

I recently got a Kibler SMR lock with a kit. It is the newer CNC type. IT is a magnificent lock. Every part is perfectly fitted with no slop what so ever. All working parts are nicely finished. The sear pivots on a tube that is part of the bridle. There is no detectable wobble. The bridle has an alignment pin. The tumbler does not wobble in the hole. The plate is dead flat. The frizzen fits the pan dead tight. The springs are machined, not cast.

The plate was bead blasted. Polishing only required #320 then blending with scotchbrite. The cock and frizzen did require more work to polish due to being cast then machined on critical surfaces.

The difference between it and the common cast wonders is so vast that no comparison is fair. They would be a bargain at twice the asking price.