L&R Queen Anne Lock problem with short sear???

[Brad Foust]

I really like the quality of this lock, but has anyone had a problem with the sear being short.?
Meaning that it causes the trigger to be located so far forward that it is difficult to get a good angle on the tang bolt??
There is plenty of room to the rear of the lock plate, maybe another 3/8", for a longer sear and allowing the trigger to be moved farther back.
This is the reason I have had trouble locating the tang bolt as I wrote a couple weeks back on this forum.
Thanks all.

 

[galamb]

What trigger are you using?

There are some high bar triggers that would alleviate the issue (if using a single trigger)

The high bar would contact the sear relatively close to the trigger pivot point, which would make the pull fairly light - but would work otherwise.

 

[Brad Foust]

Hi, thanks for you're response.
I had a TOW trigger #TR-Penn-TP. I really dont like the type but its what I had. And this being my first project in many years and being long out of practice thought it best not to spend a bunch $$ and just try and use what I have.
My trigger pull is fine, actually very good. Problem was I just could not get the tang bolt at an acceptable angle cause the trigger has to be so far forward.
After much thought and really looking at everything I think the cause of the problem is that the lock sear should be farther back towards the end of the lock plate.
This would allow me to then position the trigger farther rear, and then lessen the severe bolt angle.
I really dont see how any diffferent trigger would change that.
If you have a TOW catalog or can see the locks internals on-line look at the L&R Queen Anne and you will note that the sear could be longer.
Then look at the inside of the TOW Round Faced Virginia Fowler or others and notice that the sear reaches sallot farther to the rear??
Thanks again

 

[galamb]

I do see that it does have a short sear arm relative to other locks.

Perhaps it was your perception of "what part of the trigger bar" should interact with the sear that caused you to move the trigger too far forward.

If the trigger bar contacts the sear closer to the triggers pivot pin that should allow you to move the trigger back somewhat.

Below are two "acceptable" placements of the trigger in relation to the lock (the lock is backwards so that the guts are showing). Those are the two extreme placements with any point in between available.

Having the sear closer to the pivot point will lighten the (perceived) pull and may lengthen the pull before it fires, but works just fine.

 

[Zonie]

I like to locate the trigger pivot pin about 5/16" ahead of the sear arm.

Yes, that does leave a lot of the trigger blade unused but the way I think of those triggers is they are just the raw material used to build the trigger.

Extra stock is left on them so the builder can do whatever is needed.

In the guns I've built, a lot of that blade gets cut off leaving just the working length and height needed to do the job.

 

[Vaino]

The trigger aassembly you've chosen has the pivot integral w/ the triggerplate...if a simple trigger that's pinned in the wood had been used, it could have been located further back.

Or....most of steel to the rear of the pivot holes could have been eliminated.... 1/16" or slightly more wall surrounding the pivot holes is plenty.

Formerly made the trigger assemblies w/ the pivot on the TP, but the metal surrounding the pivot hole was minimal so it didn't interfere w/ the sear bar as yours did. Also, the pivot hole was higher for better geometry. Presently use only triggers that are pinned in the wood...a lot less trouble.......Fred

 

[Brad Foust]

Thanks guys for all the input!
I located the trigger pretty much as shown in the top photo, with the trigger as far rearward as possible.
One thing I dont understand is you're saying that by using a simple trigger pinned in the wood that the bolt can then be better alligned. I do see that there is no part of the plate to hit, but the bolt still cannot pass thru the trigger blade?
Finally, I have been in contact with L&R hoping they might have a sear with a longer arm? No luck.
But in conversing with them they stated that my lock bolt should not be located any more than about 1 1/2" from the back of the barrel.
Thats where part of my problem is. I am at just about 1 3/4", which when combined with the short sear is causing my trouble.
I suppose I could have shortened my breech plug tang? I may fill and relocate the bolt hole in the tang, or just use a large wood screw in stead of the bolt, but I'd rather not.
I have just ordered a different trigger which in its self will not make much differance. But I will start again and see how it turns out.
I really think they should make that sear arm about 1/4" to 3/8" longer.
I might cut mine and add a small saection??
Thanks again