L&R RPL locks for T/C

[user 28522]

I think It's time for a new lock for my T/C Hawken and I see that L&R makes a replacement. Has anybody installed them and is is a drop in replacement part or is there a moderate amount of fitting needed?

Thanks, Longone

 

[Rifleman1776]

Why do you believe you need to replace the original?
I ask because mine is 45 years old and has been in constant use for competition all that time. As far as I can tell it is as good as new. Same with the TC lock in my wife's Seneca.
Not answering the question, I know. Sorry. :redface: But, FWIW, L&R locks are excellent and the RPL series are well liked.

 

[Zonie]

As you know, the TC lock uses a coil mainspring.

The L&R lock uses the traditional folded leaf design for a mainspring so, the springs width will interfere with the bottom of the lock mortise unless a little wood is removed in that area.

I probably could have just said, no, it is not a drop in, but I figured I'd mention why it isn't and what will need to be done if you want to install it.

Removing the little bit of wood won't weaken the stock and the TC lock will still drop in as usual.

 

[badpenny]

Installed one in a flintlock renegade. Pain to install due to rheumatoid arthritis.That said very pleased with the lock.Beats the snot out of the TC lock.Am in the process of putting cap lock in another renegade. A little work involved but well worth the effort particularly a flintlock.

 

[user 28522]

Rifleman, There are marks on the plate just behind the hammer where the hammer is dragging on it. This rifle has given me problems since it was new. Now that I am getting into black powder shooting more it goes to the range more often.
It has a lot of fail to set the pan charge off problems, when I loosened the screw that holds the hammer to the bridal? it worked almost 100% the rest of the day.
My belief is that the hammer is just dropping too slow and does not have the force to create a good shower of sparks.

Longone

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have an old Gustomsky trade gun that did the same thing. The hammer froze against the lock plate if the screw was tightened and wouldn't rotate.

I filed the lock plate down under the hammer about 1/32", no more binding with the hammer screw tightened all the way. First I tried filing the back of the hammer to give it more clearance but that didn't have any effect. The tumbler didn't go far enough through the lock plate so I gave it more room.

I would say, tighten your screw down all the way, move the hammer back and forth to mark the plate and start filing.

 

[Zonie]

If you plan on hanging onto the rifle, you have the money and a small, sharp chisel, go for it.

Not only the L&R lock spark better but there is a lot of satisfaction to be gained by making an improvement to a gun with your own hands.

If you are doing the lock replacement to increase the value of the gun for resale, don't bother.

Other people, especially those not knowledgeable about flintlocks, won't be willing to pay you back the extra money you've put into your rifle.

 

[curator]

Zonie is soooo right about this. You won't increase the value of your gun for resale but you will increase the "shootability" of your flintlock with the L&R lock installed. Keep in mind that you will need to spend some time inletting the new lock and making sure it doesn't bind. Are you capable of drilling and tapping the lock screw holes? Once correctly installed you will get faster lock time and better flint life as well as many less failures to fire. Go for it!!!

 

[user 28522]

First off thanks Eric for helping me with the correct terminology. Secondly, this is one rifle that will be buried with me so I'm not doing this for someone else, I'm a shooter and get a lot of satisfaction from poking holes in paper.
The lock plate is flat as you know so the only way to make this work that I see is to relieve the plate under the hammer boss so It doesn't drag. That seems kinda butch, I would rather replace the lock as long as they (L&R RPL) do indeed fit with some minor fitting as stated.
I'm looking to keep the rifle looking good and performing the best it can.

Longone

 

[user 28522]

Are you capable of drilling and tapping the lock screw holes? Go for it!!!

Good point, I didn't even think about that, being a drop in and all. Yes I can drill and tap a hole so that won't be a problem, thanks for all your thoughts.

Longone

 

[EC121]

Buy the RPL lock and install it. Then work on the TC lock for practice. Save it for another project. You might run into a deal on a piece of wood and want to try your hand at building a rifle. I'm building a .40 cal. rifle right now that I have no use for, but I ran into a deal on some parts. Been 20yrs. since my last build but I couldn't stand it. Had to give it a try. I'll probably test fire it and put it in the collection.

 

[Tom Compton]

Easier and less noticeable to take some off the inside of the ****. Also check to see it the drag is on the lock screw.

I had problems w my TC flintlock (1973 vintage). When I put a .54 together a few years ago I had a Renegade stock and triggers so got a GM drop in and an RPL. Lock was already drilled and tapped so just a little wood removal for the RPL. Sparks and shoots great. Next is a 20 ga barrel for it.
TC

 

[bpd303]

Definitely check for the lock screw protruding too far through the lock. I've had two that needed the lock screw shortened.

 

[user 28522]

bpd,

On the new lock or the old lock?

After disassembling the lock yesterday and seeing some uneven wear and general sloppy fitting parts I ordered a L&R RPL from The Gun Works. They shipped it yesterday as well, great folks to deal with in my opinion.

So I look forward to having a T/C Hawken that not only shoots real good but will function good.

Longone

 

[bpd303]

On any lock, when the lock screw is overtightened the wood in the mortise compresses allowing the screw tip to extend past the outer lock plate face binding the hammer (****).

 

[Rifleman1776]

Rifleman, There are marks on the plate just behind the hammer where the hammer is dragging on it. This rifle has given me problems since it was new. Now that I am getting into black powder shooting more it goes to the range more often.
It has a lot of fail to set the pan charge off problems, when I loosened the screw that holds the hammer to the bridal? it worked almost 100% the rest of the day.
My belief is that the hammer is just dropping too slow and does not have the force to create a good shower of sparks.

Longone

That could be repairable with some filing and stoning. But, don't let me talk you out of the L&R. It will be an upgrade.

 

[Maddog Avraham]

Easier and less noticeable to take some off the inside of the ****. Also check to see it the drag is on the lock screw.

I had problems w my TC flintlock (1973 vintage). When I put a .54 together a few years ago I had a Renegade stock and triggers so got a GM drop in and an RPL. Lock was already drilled and tapped so just a little wood removal for the RPL. Sparks and shoots great. Next is a 20 ga barrel for it.
TC

Where can I find a 20 gauge barrel for mine?

 

[2 shots]

Where can I find a 20 gauge barrel for mine?

find a roached out .54 barrel and send it to bobby hoyt

 

[Winterhawk]

find a roached out .54 barrel and send it to bobby hoyt

Or a .50, it should have enough meat on it.

 

[2 shots]

yes you are right. all renegades are 1 inch acf .50 or .54 will work.