I just put the first 2 coats of browning solution on my barrel and I’ve got a copper streak where I overlapped the application. What can I do to get rid of this streak? I did a search and someone said to just recoat and press on. Will that work? Thanks…
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Laurel Mountain Browning
- Thread starter Gvilleddie
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Had the same thing happen. Card it a little and more coats will take care of the problem. If you can get through the first few coats without losing faith, you should be very pleased with the outcome. One tip, don't get distracted and forget about the barrel for 24 hours. It would then need more aggressive carding to remove the overgrowth of rust.. Don't ask.....
Also, I found the rusting action can/will tend to continue even after being neutralized. Takes a week or two to calm down. Good luck.
Also, I found the rusting action can/will tend to continue even after being neutralized. Takes a week or two to calm down. Good luck.
Apply in one direction don't go back and forth that is what caused your issue.
Thanks…
In earlier posted threads asking the same question, people who saw copper freaked out and asked what to do, some of the guys here sand to sand off the barrel and start over.
YIKES! If I did that every time I hit a place twice with my LMF by accident and got copper I would never finish a browning job.
No big deal, the copper goes away with coat #2 or 3.
YIKES! If I did that every time I hit a place twice with my LMF by accident and got copper I would never finish a browning job.
No big deal, the copper goes away with coat #2 or 3.
Card with steel wool and even it out before your next application. With multiple applications and carding the irregularities even out.
Here is what happens if you don't go back and sand off the copper, actually, nothing. This is my second rifle, it was the queen of copper spots, lots of them. And for the critics, that ring around the lock bolt head is actually lithium grease that I put on after I browned the lock plate, it is not a place that didn't brown because I greased the bolt threads.
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Yes
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Boy oh boy !!! You said it right !! Ive had some bad experiences with that browning ....once you get it to start browning its a b!+#@ to get it to stop !! I'll never use it again .More power to the rest of ya though ....
Thanks all..full steam ahead…
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I've used it on six, maybe seven, guns. Never had a problem and my guns look better than most factory browns. Follow the directions with care. Best I have ever used. Dale
On my Woodsrunner I followed the instructions and everything went just great with a really beautiful outcome. The SMR was the one where the process wouldn't stop. I blamed that on me since I left it "cooking" for an extended period of time. I live so close to the beach the air is really salty, so rusting happens fast. Several baking soda scrubs and all was good in the end.
ronaldrothb49
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Your rubbing it too much. Hang the barrel, get the cloth wet and run down the barrel one flat at a time in one long motion down the barrel. wear gloves do not touch the barrel with your hands while it is wet.
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Yeah , I let them cook a long time to get the rust and texture I want on the barrel ....then they won't quit cooking ! , or at least it takes a LONG time !!! Its hard to tell a customer " yeah , its all done and has been for a week but I'd like to let it set here for 3 to 4 more weeks and keep an eye on it for rusting ...." It doesnt work. Ive told a couple to watch them and keep them oiled esp. if the barrel starts looking dry but ...thats a lot to expect from a customer that believes its done so , never again . If someone is using LM for their own build , not really a problem just keep an eye on it . I used baking soda , the cleaning liquid they suggest ( forget what its called ) and soaked them in my oil tank for days ....still starts rusting again !! I'll never use it again . D@mn shame ...oh well , live and learn ....the hard way
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TexiKan
40 Cal.
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When I first used it, I expected an even browning process and when I did not see that, I panicked a bit and called a friend who told me to just keep adding and carding and it would go away. Yes, it did and I have been pleased with the outcome. It remains durable and has lasted for years. Yes, it did seem to cook a bit more after I thought I stopped the process but it was more an annoyance than anything else. I prefer it and the color over the hot browning treatment. Like others have said, keep moving forward.
Try not to over lap. Hang the plugged barrel and try to apply in one stroke from one end to the other.
flatcreek
40 Cal
I like a smooth plum or chocolate brown, so I use Mark Lee. You use a little heat and its a bit faster, but still need to card and use several coats for it to even out. Just be patient as with everything building a gun.
You can actually control the color and texture by how you card off rust between coats. For a classic "English" type brown where steel is shiny but brown use a carding wheel and buff all rust scale off the parts but for a more rustic "old" look use denim or burlap to just knock down surface rust and let the part sit longer between coats and it will develop an egg shell type texture. Just depends on what you like. The copper color comes from having the cotton swab with solution to wet, just squeeze excess out, you want swab damp but not dripping wet. As others have said the finish will level itself out.
I believe Mr kibler recommends dabbing it on instead of whipping. I used several of my wife's makeup removal pads to apply it. Hung the barrel from a coat hanger hook and slobbered it on.
