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Lead hollow point or AeroTip?

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Bowhunter57

32 Cal.
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
39
Reaction score
49
Location
N.W. Ohio
Which bullet tip type is best for deer sized game animals? Power Belt bullets offer a pure lead series with a hollow point. Also, a copper jacketed series with an Aerotip.

I'm familar with Ballistic Tip and V-Max bullets for varmint caliber rifles. This is what makes me curious about the Aerotiped bullets. However, I've heard from other hunters about disturbing tales of the Aerotips not opening up, due to not enough ballistic speed.

Otherwise, I'm sold on the standard hollow point bullets for opening up and doing the shock and damage necessary to get a clean kill. Obviously, shot placement is everything.

Your opinions and experiences are appreciated.
Thank you, Bowhunter57
 
Bowhunter57 said:
"...Your opinions and experiences are appreciated..."

I prefer a round nose: "patched lead round ball" :wink: and shoot them just like a broadhead.

100% pure soft lead round ball info per caliber:

.45cal/.440" = 128grns
.50cal/.490" = 180grns
.54cal/.530" = 230grns
.58cal/.570" = 279grns
.62cal/.600" = 325grns
 
I've used Precision Rifle's Ultimate 1's in .50 cal, both hollow points and their ballistic tips. Saw no real difference between the two on game. However I've discovered all you really need is the good ole roundball. :v
 
I love the powerbelt hollowpoints. I shoot them out of my cap rifles. Never used the aerotips. The hollow points have left wonderful blood trails for me.
 
Conicals tend to blow through a deer dumping their energy on the ground behind. I don't know any hollow point that reliably opens up on a deer size animal.

I believe that you are going at this all wrong. The best projectile for killing deer is the pure lead Round Ball. Within 100 yards, which is the furthest distance most shooters can accurately shoot open sights, The PRB is by far the best choice. It expands at low velocity, and is the more accurate of prjectiles. You also don't usually have to deal with the heavy recoil that conicals produce.

If you will read the posts on this site, you will find little enthusiasm for what you are talking about. But then, there are some archers who think they can't kill a deer without one of those bows with wheels, and ropes, and overdraws, and scope sights, and carbon fiber shafts, and expanding broadheads, etc., too. Makes you wonder how Byron Ferguson has ever been able to make a living!
 
Hornady 240 gr xtphp, i have shot a bunch of deer with them and the bullet usually stays in the deer, in the hide on the other side. the bullet is wicked and does expand, as a matter of fact it usually starts as soon as it hits. i have also shot some with a poly tip but they seem to just punch holes. we shot a deer in the neck, first time, last week with the xtp and it didn't come out, shattered the neck inside.
 
roundball said:
Bowhunter57 said:
"...Your opinions and experiences are appreciated..."

I prefer a round nose: "patched lead round ball" :wink: and shoot them just like a broadhead.

100% pure soft lead round ball info per caliber:

.45cal/.440" = 128grns
.50cal/.490" = 180grns
.54cal/.530" = 230grns
.58cal/.570" = 279grns
.62cal/.600" = 325grns

:grin:
I was also trying to offer the subtle point that we try to keep our discussions on the subjects of traditionally oriented muzzleloading, not modern bullets, etc.
:grin:
 
no need to make a guy feel like he is not hunting because he is using not using a round ball. i have shot both and i think the sabot, let me correct that, i know a hollow point sabot does more damage to a deer than a roundball. i have shot them with both in the boiler room and the sabot does a quicker job. the man's question was about modern bullets, not round balls.
 
i must have missed that 1865 thing, i guess my flintlock is not as traditional as i thought because it throws sabots.
 
I've shot 3 deer this year with my .50 GPR percussion. The first was with a 385 grain Hornady HPHB conical and 90grains ffg in my fast twist barrel. My rifle really likes these and shoots very tight groups with them. The second two were with PRBs and the original slow twist barrel. All three were shot broadside and had through and through penetration. The first was shot at slightly over 100 yards and the other two were inside 75 yards. The first deer went the farthest after being hit (about 75 yards) but that could be attributed to his size and or the distance. In my opinion the larger mass of the conical may carry out better for longer distances but you pay for that with a more "enthusiastic" recoil and the roundball will certainly shoot as far as my old eyes can.
 
Scott, if you came here to talk about modern plastic wrapped projectiles and such, or if you just came here to poke a stick at the traditional folks, this is not the best place for that. And no, a flintlock loaded with a plastic sabot is not traditional in any way in my way of thinking.
This is a real honest to goodness traditional place where guys that make stunning reproduction guns take the time to help the guys starting their first mass produced kit. There isn't much talk about sabots here.
 
Runner,

nobody is poking at anyone, if you want to shoot a roundball, a sabot, or throw rocks at them, it wouldn't matter to me. there was a question about a sabot in a forum marked muzzleloading hunting. here in PA was can use sabots in our traditional flintlock season and they are very popular. i would think the more you have on the site promoting our sport, no matter what they shoot, would be our goal.
 
Hi Bowhunter57, I've used both RB and Conicals on deer sized game and Conicals on larger game such as buffalo. My kills on deer with both types have been the double lung shots. In all cases the deer have run 50 yards or longer with through and through holes.

As you may or may not know there are several theories on what is better for a "cleaner kill". A hole on both sides to allow for good blood loss or high energy dump for knock down. Its an individual preference.

By the way, welcome to the forum.
 
scott024 said:
i would think the more you have on the site promoting our sport, no matter what they shoot, would be our goal.

I see at least three attempts were made to gently bring to your attention the focus of this site...and it seems you might be jumping a little hard for having just shown up at a well established web site with a focus on traditional muzzleloading.

Just as some additional information there are a number of sites about muzzleloading available on the Internet:

Some are wide open anything goes;
Some cater to modern high technology stuff only;
Some cater to traditional muzzleloading only like this site.

And everything that this site is about is dedicated towards promoting the sport of muzzleloading...traditional muzzleloading...as it commonly existed back in the early American muzzleloading era.

The interests of this site are not in all the new 'muzzleloading' focus as its being represented by all the recent high technology...the scope sighted, long range rifles which produce modern centerfire rifle ballistics...using everything imaginable from weather proof sealed ignitions, modern high performance bullets, plastic sabots, substitute powders, modern smokeless powder, electronic ignition, etc, etc.

And we're willing to openly share any information we can to help anyone who joins with an interest in learning about the traditional muzzleloading equipment, methods, etc...

So that's our focus and what we're about...welcome!
:thumbsup:
 
Roundball,

First of all, I was not the original poster and i myself picked up on your and pauls responses, and took offense to both. what i failed to comprehend until it was pointed out to me, is that you are not welcome on this site if everything you do is not before 1865. once again i apologize for the oversite.

Scott
 
You are very welcome here. You just have to play with the appropriate toys when you are here. A great many here shoot modern stuff in addition to traditional gear. This is where they discuss the traditional part. They go elsewhere to discuss the modern side of the hobby. Heck, they give me crud for using Pyrodex. Some folks don't even read anything that mentions conicals here. Plastic discussions get no answers usually. If someone tries to explain why, people take offense and jump all over them. This simply is not the right place for those discussions.
If you insist that is unfriendly, then I am just an old grouch sometimes. You have a beautiful day and please read the three words under the title at the top of the page.
 
Don't mind the inflamed urinary tracts. There are plenty of folks here who use other than RB.

Being more experimental minded than PC I've stuffed about anything you could down the bore of a ML. I'm going to come at this from a bit different angle.

I'd dump the Powerpoints simply because they stink. Lots and lots of accounts of accuracy problems and failures on game. I tried every one they make in 50 and 54 cal and experienced failures to drop their skirts in all of them. Every once in a while the skirts fail to drop off, and when that happens you're lucky if the bullet hits withing a foot of the remainder of your group.

I haven't shot game with them, but have been on hand for several. Some come apart on game, some pass right on through without expanding. Powerbelt was getting so many complaints that they finally had to come out with their new platinum series. Too new to say, but most of the users I know have since switched to sabots and especially to all-lead conicals such as others have mentioned.

From what I have seen, the all-lead versions work as well or better than sabot rigs in terms of accuracy and better on game. Just lots more lead and larger diameter whacking the animal.

The only advantage for pointed bullets and sabots comes in at very long range, and to realize that you have to add a scope. For me that's like putting a jet engine on a crop duster, so I can't buy in. In fact many states forbid scopes durng the special ML seasons, so any advantage of modern projectiles is lost.

Best of all, when you cast your own lead conicals, you can shoot hundreds of the things for the cost of a small handful of powerbelts or sabots. Recycle the lead, and shooting gets really cheap.

Your question is a good one, but the best answer takes you out of the realm of Powerbelts and sabots.
 
Since someone seems to think that hollow points eeom to work on deer, let me amplify my comments. I have seen hollow point bullets that have expanded in deer. I have also seen hollow points bullet that were plugged with hair and hide that did not expand. Hollow point design for a wide range of diameter of bullets, and slugs, have been something I have explored over many years with a friend who designed his own bullets for better performance. He had been at it for 20 years before we met, so i had the benefit of not only seeing the slugs we recovered from deer, but also his collection of slugs. I have read similar comments in the literature from other writers over the years about this phenomena. That is why I said, Hollow point do not always reliably expand in deer.

Just as a reminder of a famous shooting involving hollow points, President Reagan was shot with a .22 hollow point with an explosive charge in the hollow point intended to make the nose of the bullet explode inside his chest. The bullet glanced off his rib, closing the nose of the hollow point, so that the explosive did not go off. It saved the President's life.

The current nylon tipped bullets that Hornady and others are making is a good idea, for insuring that the rounds feel properly through actions, and particularly that they won't set off another primer of a case in front of them in a tubular magazine when the gun recoils. But, No one expects them to expand the bullet 100% of the time on impact. Wish it were true. I believe that the engineers at Hornady have come closer to insuring expansion on impact than other have, because there is a empty hole below the tip for it to drive down into, but that almost surely depends on a square to the target hit, and may not work if a glancing shot off a leg or shoulder or neck bone is made that bends the nose enough to prevent such movement.

Hell, we use to put steel BBs in the hollow points of .38 bullets to help them expand, and even made some that had a grain or two with black powder under that BB to make them explode on impact. Most of the time, they worked. But not always. We did succeed in making semi-wadcutters for .38 and .357 revolvers that would penetrate windshields and car doors reliably by putting a BB in the bottom of the bullet mold before pouring the lead in. A small notch in the mold to center the BB allowed the BB to be surrounded with lead, with only the barest copper showing in the center of the bullet. But, when it hit steel, or tempered glass, it would go right through. Cheap armor piercing ammo, of course.

There are other websites where all the modern zip guns and their accoutrements can be discussed. This sight is about Traditional BP arms. I agree with Roundball and Runner on that point. We aren't nasty to folks who bring up matters on these zip guns, but we are also not the best place to get information.

I help friends who own those guns figure out why they aren't firing when they get in trouble, but other than that, and keeping an eye on the magaizine articles, I don't have any direct contact with zip guns. If I want to clean plastic out of a barrel, I will stick to my modern trap shotgun. My reason for choosing not to be involved with this stuff, is because at the heart of all of it, is the belief that you can invent a new wheel. We CAN make better Traditional guns, with better sights, and we can learn to be better shooters. But, all the science relating to the BP guns has been long worked out, and worked over ad nauseum.

What I do witness from the sidelines is people who don't practice shooting enough, and don't know their guns or equipment, buying cheap zip guns, with all the toys that go with them, trying to take advantage of certain State's Muzzle Loading seasons to take more deer. The guns they choose are large bore, and the loads they use produce heavy recoil they have not trained themselves to handle. They are not good shooters, and think they can compensate for the lack of talent, and practice by using a scope on these guns. They also think they can take good shots at running deer, and that a bad hit with a huge bullet compensates for poor shot placement.

They wound and maim a lot of deer, which is okay by the state game departments, because their primary concern is to reduce the number of deer/auto accidents in their state. The limit on the season, and the number of permits sold each year guarantees that there will be deer someplace in the state the next year. It may take 10 years for deer to work back into an area that is overhunted, but, again, the State doesn't care about that. They don't want the insurance industry screaming at the legislatures, and they don't want bambi dying of starvation on some bunny huggers front lawn. Everything in between is okay.

Just because the state allows something to be used to take game doesn't make it the right thing to do. The members of this forum have simply chosen to take a stand on the issue. Sorry if that elbows you a little .
 
scott024 said:
... what i failed to comprehend until it was pointed out to me, is that you are not welcome on this site if everything you do is not before 1865.
Scott

Not welcome is not true. Everyone has the right to do their own thing when hunting, with any legal tools they choose to use and while being as HC as they choose to do it. Where you openly discuss it is another matter. I doubt few members here don't also hunt something with modern CF/RF rifles, shotguns and pistols too, but they are not discussed here.

All that was being politely pointed out is what is normally discussed on this forum - traditional hunting as it was done in days of yore with traditional tools.

If that offends you then maybe this place isn't for you. As suggested there are other boards that may be more to your liking that are wide open where anything goes.

But if you want to hang around for the "traditional" aspect of these forums, I think you'll find they are the best offered along that path with some of the most knowledgeable and helpful people on the Internet.
 
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