Lead ID

[Kipawa17]

Found these the other day for a couple of bucks. I have no idea what they are other than I can make a mark on them with my finger nail. My guess is that they were for soldering. I just got a Lee bottom pour (#90009) and a Lee Magnum pot (390949). A long time ago I had a propane pot but when I dragged it out it it no longer worked. But I have a bucket of wheel weights and some other lead. Next is to get some molds to cast RB and conicals for my 44 revolvers. Unsure of these new lead bars as a friend said they might be collectible as Selby has been out of business for a while.

 

[#BPBReloadingFFL]

1/2*1/2 50/50 solder 50 tin 50 lead.
Not collectable
A 1/4# bar is worth around 10$+
Not good for round bar
Your lead WW will be hard lead.
Soft lead works best for round ball.
That's my opinion, your mileage may differ

 

[Kipawa17]

1/2*1/2 50/50 solder 50 tin 50 lead

That's what I was thinking with the 1/2&1/2 part

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

I have used five pounds of pure lead, five pounds of wheel weights, and one bar of 50:50 (like you have) to make pistol bullets (modern). Way too hard for muzzleloaders. You might try trading them off in exchange of soft lead.

ADK Bigfoot

 

[Kipawa17]

I have used five pounds of pure lead, five pounds of wheel weights, and one bar of 50:50 (like you have) to make pistol bullets (modern). Way too hard for muzzleloaders. You might try trading them off in exchange of soft lead.

ADK Bigfoot

I figured it would be way too hard. I'll continue to look , all the tire places use steel weights around here although there is a place that has lead from sailboats.

 

[1950DAVE]

Looks like lead used for auto body work, think lead-sled.

 

[TDM]

We all want to save money and get a good deal. But I think it’s much better to stick with pure lead for muzzleloaders. Pay a little more and eliminate the issues. Just my opinion.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I use #1 lead in the flinter, round ball & paper patch unmentionables. Ive skimmed WW lead down to 4Bhn. It was close enough for PP, but still dont use it for round ball.

If your going to mess with lead. Get a SARCO lead tool. Know what your BHN is.
I use mine all the time to check ones I make.

 

[TreeMan]

Don’t toss it because it’s not pure lead. Will work good mixed with pure lead if you or a friend casts bullets for cartridge guns.

 

[longcruise]

Don’t toss it because it’s not pure lead. Will work good mixed with pure lead if you or a friend casts bullets for cartridge guns.

Indeed.

You could also throw it in the lead pot in an amount that would equal 1:20 or 1:30. It should be suitable for RB. That's a "maybe". Definitely suitable for conicals. Last resort, the BPCR crowd would have use for it.

 

[Kipawa17]

Good info, thanks

 

[springfield art]

1/2*1/2 50/50 solder 50 tin 50 lead.
Not collectable
A 1/4# bar is worth around 10$+
Not good for round bar
Your lead WW will be hard lead.
Soft lead works best for round ball.
That's my opinion, your mileage may differ

Agree. It's marked half-n-half for a reason. Use pure lead.

 

[Kipawa17]

Well I got a bonus today, I was unaware that there is a sailboat wrecking yard about 10 minutes away! He's not smelting right now and I did not want a un cut 2000# keel weight but he did have some sheet lead from an old hospital x-ray room so I got the 90# he had left. Very soft lead and from what I'm told its pretty close to pure. Only going to cast RB and conical for the 44 revolvers (when I get the molds). Until then I'll put on the safety gear, cut up the stuff and make muffin pan ingots. I might save up and get more as he has a lot of divers weights and he is getting ready to retire.

 

[SwampBilly]

I have used wheel weights in a 451 round ball mold for some years with my 1858 New model army. They say it can be hard on the loading lever.

I also learned that I should be using a 454 mold which I have recently acquired. I also recently acquired 5 lb of pure soft lead from roto metals.

Now with that 451 mold.... The round ball never did shave a ring. I don't think I would try those wheel weights with the 454 for the health of my loading lever. I will save my wheel weights for if I ever need them but I doubt I will.

Just go on Amazon and look up pure soft lead. But if you do buy some just make sure and read the description that that's that's exactly what it is.

I have heard that soil stack flashing from the vent pipes on top of roofs is pure soft lead. Has anyone else heard that?


If that is true and you know a roofer who is willing to give you his scrap... There you go.

I paid 25 bucks for my 5 lb of pure lead and yeah that's a little bit pricey but I think it's worth it working with clean lead and not having to bother with scrap

 

[longcruise]

Good find. I've gotten some x-ray room lead and it was good stuff. I cut it into strips and rolled it up to go into the pot. I never made ingots, just used the roll ups as needed.

 

[SwampBilly]

Also another tip. But these 1 lb ingots that I have, have been able to cut them up into small chunks using long handled pruning loppers.

But I don't have a melt pot and I am limited to what my little ladle can hold and a propane torch.

 

[Kipawa17]

Agree. It's marked half-n-half for a reason. Use pure lead.

A friend told me that he noticed some closed auctions were those bars sold for around $20 each. I'm going to see if he wants them in trade.

 

[Kipawa17]

I use #1 lead in the flinter, round ball & paper patch unmentionables. Ive skimmed WW lead down to 4Bhn. It was close enough for PP, but still dont use it for round ball.

If your going to mess with lead. Get a SARCO lead tool. Know what your BHN is.
I use mine all the time to check ones I make.

View attachment 230170

I looked up the SAECO tester, might come in handy as a friend has quite a lot of cast bullets he want me to take. I do know most are hard cast. do you use it on scrap stuff? I would think one would have to cut a small chunk to fit the tester?

 

[centershot]

I have used wheel weights in a 451 round ball mold for some years with my 1858 New model army. They say it can be hard on the loading lever.

I also learned that I should be using a 454 mold which I have recently acquired. I also recently acquired 5 lb of pure soft lead from roto metals.

Now with that 451 mold.... The round ball never did shave a ring. I don't think I would try those wheel weights with the 454 for the health of my loading lever. I will save my wheel weights for if I ever need them but I doubt I will.

Just go on Amazon and look up pure soft lead. But if you do buy some just make sure and read the description that that's that's exactly what it is.

I have heard that soil stack flashing from the vent pipes on top of roofs is pure soft lead. Has anyone else heard that?


If that is true and you know a roofer who is willing to give you his scrap... There you go.

I paid 25 bucks for my 5 lb of pure lead and yeah that's a little bit pricey but I think it's worth it working with clean lead and not having to bother with scrap

Amen to that brother! I've found it much easier to work with clean, pure lead rather than trying to use range scrap or wheelweights. I usually buy from Rochester Lead Works in Rochester, NY. It's a 3 hour drive from my home but it's a nice ride. Picking it up is a little more $ than if they shipped it but I don't mind! Rotometals is also a good lace to get lead, last I knew they offered free shipping on orders over 100 pounds......or is it dollars? I can't remember........terminal CRS!

 

[BillyC]

Also another tip. But these 1 lb ingots that I have, have been able to cut them up into small chunks using long handled pruning loppers.

But I don't have a melt pot and I am limited to what my little ladle can hold and a propane torch.

I bought a small cast iron pot from Amazon for $8 to melt lead in. It probably holds 6-8 pounds of melted lead, more than enough for the ingots I pour.