I was asked how do I make my leather canteens. I start with 12 to 14 ounce leather ( usually a 1/2 side of cow leather), then cut out two exact pieces that match and have been designed to hold about 500 to 750 ML of water when done. I then use rubber cement on the edges to glue the two pieces together then make sewing holes a little less than 1/4 inch a part. Using artifical sinew, I sew by hand with a running stitch. When sewed, soak it in water for 4 to 6 hours, some of the vegetable tanning will leach out. Then I pack it as hard as I can with sand, whick forms the canteen. Let it completely dry, then dump the sand out and I use marbles to loosen any that sticks inside. I use bees wax that I have melted in a crock pot and soak the whole canteen in it till saturated. Then leave about a cup in and let it cool a little, swish it around to get a good covering inside and you have a waterproof leather canteen.
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
leather canteens
- Thread starter traderlee
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
rafterob
62 Cal.
I have recently done some reading on leather forming. Your method is the tired and true primitive method (minus the rubber cement). Commercially, they were made in two halves in a form (male and female) stretched and dried to the form and then sewed together. I can see this having the benefit of being able to waterproof the interior before it is assembled. I imagine one could get a thinner, smoother waterproofing this way. I am currently producing a mold for a shot pouch. Will let you all know if I ever get there!
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2003
- Messages
- 6,504
- Reaction score
- 1,440
You both might want to consider the time frame for Jackware. As nice as it is, it's popularity petered out around the turn of the 18th c., and pretty much disappears by 1720 or so. To be made right, they need a heat treat. Traderlee is getting this with the hot wax, but at the temp that beeswax melts is the absolute limit before you get structural damage to the leather.
rafterob
62 Cal.
In my case, I am going to attempt a version of the more contemporary sporting shot pouch common in the mid to late 1800s. Usually embossed with a design. I don't think I will be able to figure out the embossing part so I will probably do some stamping on it.
Similar threads
- Locked
