Leather choice for bag

[phoenix511]

I recently completed two hunting bags using 4-5oz veg tanned leather. After wetting it to be turned inside-out, the leather became very stiff after drying. After dying with Fiebings, it is even stiffer. Plus, the dye color seems uneven after drying, even with two coats, using the dauber supplied with the dye.

Is the stiffness typical? Is there a way to now make the leather more supple? Is there a better choice of leather and/or dye? I've never handled an original so I don't know if they were soft or not.

 

[John Wasmuth]

Did you oil it after you finished it? 4-5oz veg tan leather is pretty stout leather isnt very supple to begin with and is typical of veg tanned leather to be a little stiff so it will hold its shape, as in saddle skirting, holsters and the like. It aint buckskin by any means and wont be near as soft, which for a heavy duty bag is fine. Heat up some Lexol to about 120 dgrees and work it into the leather. That might make it a bit softer but remember, veg tan leather, such as Oak Tan isnt real soft to begin with, which is why it makes good bags so it holds its shape. Redie it with the leather dye using rubber gloves and a warm damp cloth to help even out the color. The dauber is way to small.

 

[BrownBear]

The stiffness is pretty typical, but you can get past it by beating up on the bag. Call it "antiquing," but flex and bounce it around pretty good.

I've found with Fiebings, it's a lot easier to get uniform results if you thin it with the Fiebings reducer, at least 1:1 and I like it 3:1. I also use as wide a brush as possible for any job. Best service for me are the cheap foam "paint brushes" from the harware store.

I know lots of folks recommend 4-5 oz leather for bags, but man. I just don't like them that thick. I've settled on 2.5-3 oz. It gets stiff too, but softens easier. Just feels better to my hand, too.

 

[ladysmithtrading]

throw the bag into your dryer with NO HEAT and a couple clean tennis shoes and let it rip, will soften the leather up pretty nice, the best way to apply dye to veg tan is to spray it on, try a cheap air brush from harbor freight, works great!

 

[halem5]

When I make shooting bags or ladies hand bags from veg tan, I completely saturate the leather with neatsfoot oil...keep re-appling the oil until the leather will not absorb anymore...then, let it sit for at least 24 hours before you do anything with it, maybe on an old shop cloth so it doesn't leave residue...then, after the oil sets for 24 hours, I use oil based dyes...after you get your desired color (I find that if you apply the dye in circles, you get less streaking), seal the leather with either a commercial leather dressing (I like pecards), beeswax, or I've even used bear fat. It will never be as soft as buckskin, but I find that the oil helps make it alot softer, and helps with water resisting as well.

Just my $0.02

 

[dlpowell]

I beat mine against a tree and throw it in the dirt and stomp on it. Works great for me.

 

[MSW]

TrailChief- thanks for the tip... i'll give that a try.

 

[David W.]

Like trailcheif, I use neetsfoot oil. Use 100% oil, not the compound. I use tack sponges for applying dye.

 

[omarick1948]

That's the main reason I don't care to use untreated Veg Tan leather. Makes good hand bags, saddles and tooled items, but also tears easily and is pretty soft fibered. My favorite leather for shooting bags is oil tan or chap leathers. This is the same leather, that use to be known as blacksmith leather. Tough stuff and comes in many colors both solid and antiqued and other earth tones. But that's just me! JMHO

Rick

 

[BrownBear]

That oil tanned is hard to beat, isn't it. Don't know about historical accuracy and don't care.

My only beef is that it's a little thick for smaller bags. But for anything bigger than about 6x6 with a gusset, and mine are oil tanned.

On the thin veg tanned, welts really strengthen seams and eliminate tearing. I got three large sides for $1.50 a foot. Call it inspiration for experiments, but I'm happier and happier as I get acquainted with it.

BTW- Speaking of tough leather, I'm just starting to experiment with old welders capes and aprons. It's "suede" I guess, but so thick and tough it's got to be useful, HC or not. The "spirit" of reusing old stuff is HC enough for me. Mine are pretty well scorched and blackened, so the leather actually looks pretty good, rough-out or not.

 

[freeloader]

If you don't have arthritis like I do, but I do it anyways I roll it,kneed it, wrinkle it, crunch it and then do it some more. it will soften the leather real nice and will ad an older appearance to it also. then you can rub some oil or wax to it if you want to.

 

[BrownBear]

I know all about the rhumatiz, and it aint fun. Got it in both joints of both thumbs, so maybe that's why I'm having so much fun with 3 oz leather. Lots easier to work, and doesn't take all the beatin and foldin and whackin to soften it up.

We're dealing with serious airborne water here, and leather needs serious treating. I've been experimenting with the newer soft version of SnoSeal as a regular treatment, and it works better than anything I've ever tried- both for softening the leather and actual waterproofing. And it darkens the dark brown Tandy Stoned Oil Cowhide just right for my taste. If you build with a whelt, the seams are virtually waterproof, too.