leather coverd wood case

[fleener]

I am wanting to build a leather wrapped wooden take down case this winter for a English Sporting rifle.

Does anyone have experience in doing this? I have the leather working book #3 that shows how to wrap a case.

I have a couple old English shotgun cases, but not a rifle one. Were there differences between rifle and shotgun cases? The lids on the 2 I have fit up differently then the lids on perhaps a higher end case?

Thanks

Fleener

 

[BrownBear]

I've built similar stuff, but not gun cases. Can't say for sure my experience will help you, but it's sure something to think about.

I'd spend a whole lot of time looking online and in books for photos, especially those showing any construction details. Then I'd figure on making two of them- The first for figuring out the things you wished you had known beforehand, and the second for getting it right. Call the first your "field" case and the second your display case. Might even consider making a smaller pistol case first, just to speed the learning curve.

Most of what you're looking for right now is "style stuff," but translating that into construction details can be a leap. I'm in the throes of building classic fleece-lined rigid leather cases for fly reels. Case #3 finally pulled it altogether for me. The other two work, but they're nothing I'll put on display....

 

[Shooey]

Tandy Leather sells three books about making leather cases. They contain all the details like how to make hinges, hasps, D-rings, etc. Good luck with your project!

 

[BrownBear]

I'll add this book to the list of must-haves if you don't already own it. Those square corners will make you goofy without it.

 

[Shooey]

As a matter of fact, I've got that one ordered! Thanks! :thumbsup:

 

[fleener]

I have noticed that some of the cases have exposed wood, like oak at the top of the case when open. I have started to use a high grade of plywood, and was simply going to wrap the top edge with the leather. But now I am thinking that I should just use oak and leave the top exposed like on some cases.

I got the oak so that is not a problem. Perhaps my plywood case will be my first and the oak one the second. I got more one of these rifles, so I don't have to buy another rifle for an extra case

Fleener

 

[flattail]

I got more one of these rifles, so I don't have to buy another rifle for an extra case

Now that's just too bad. Might take an extra case or two to get it right, so you don't need to use that excuse! :stir:
Ed

 

[GunnyGene]

Fleener: For the wooden part of the case, what's important is grain direction (if solid wood, not ply)- wood expands and contracts across the grain so unless you are using quarter sawn lumber be careful how you position and attach it. Joinery. Corner joinery should be finger joints or dovetails for strength and durability. I'd only use the ply for the bottom, rabbited into the sides but not glued in or screwed/nailed except for a couple fasteners to keep it from rattling.

If you're not up on joinery methods you might want to get a copy of Gary Rogowski's book - http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Ill...d=1417620838&sr=8-1&keywords=joinery+rogowski

 

[fleener]

Gunny

thanks for the wood advice. I am planning on using box joints. I have a fairly complete woodworking shop.

I just need to find some time now to get to the work. Got a English Sporting rifle to finish, and some work on a Oliver tractor to get to.....

thanks

fleener