Leather garment stitching

[ADK Ephraim]

Anyone care to share/relate proper stitching technique (book, article, web site, etc.)for use on leather clothing? I'm looking to do an alteration on a pair of leather pants and want a durable stitch using artificial sinew. Thanks, in advance!

 

[Twisted_1in66]

Hi MJWayne,

Instead of using artificial sinew, which always looks artificial, use waxed linen thread. You can order large spools of it, or you can get small amounts from Tandy Leather. You can also use real sinew though you usually have to process it a bit yourself to get the smaller pieces to sew with out of the larger patch of sinew.

Tandy also has a great book available called "Handsewing Leather" by Al Stohlman (same guy who makes the really spendy leather working tools). If you don't already have all the tools get their basic kit that comes with the book and some decent tools as well as the waxed linen thread.

For sewing leather garments a welted seam is the most durable. This involves sewing a piece of leather (a welt) in between the two pieces of leather you are joining. Then you trim the welt close and turn the seam inside out. Looks very neat and trim, is historically accurate and super durable. It's the same method used with much thicker leather to make knife sheaths so the knife blade doesn't cut the stitching.

For more info on various methods of sewing leather garments look at the last few chapters in Deerskins to Buckskins 2nd edition by Matt Richards. Lots of great info there. The book is about brain tanning leather and then has a section on how to make garments out of your braintanned hides.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

 

[John Wasmuth]

If you are going to use artificial sinew pull it apart and use one single strand with a small glovers needle, do not use it as it comes off the roll, way to thick and it will look like artificial sinew. light weight saddle linen thread waxed will work as well. The use of the tri-bladed glovers needle will allow the needle to slide thru the leather rather than having to punch holes or use pliers to pull it thru. Whip stitching is prolly the best way to go with it rather than a running stitch but either one will work. Good luck with it.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I use a running stitch, but about every inch or so, I do a lock stitch, so that the running stitch doesn't pinch the fabric. This works better when sewing clothes. Use a welt when sewing shoes, or other gear, where you need a reinforced seam. :thumbsup:

 

[chipper]

I'm going to be teaching a class on stitching leather at the Squirrel Rifle shoot here in Colorado this weekend. I'll also be teaching blacksmithing with a leather bag, a piece of copper pipe and a rock. Sound interesting? Jump on your horse. See you there. "Classes are all free"

Regards
Loyd Shindlbower
Loveland Colorado