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leather on the flint?

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Just for fun, here is a slow motion video of a large Siler firing up-side-down. It may be faster this way than right-side up. The prime has time to fall maybe 1-2 mm. The frame rate is 5000fps.

Up-side-down Siler

Regards,
Pletch
 
Tie a weight on the end of a string, and swing it in a circle. You will feel it become easier to accelerate as it comes over the top arc and begins its downward "drop". That is the affect of gravity on the weight at the end of the string.

That is the same principal that affects MOVING objects, traveling over an arc, towards a source of gravity. That is why, for instance, the Earth's orbit is NOT ROUND, but elliptical, as the Earth is pulled closer to the sun in part of its orbit. We don't yet know exactly why that happens- only that it does.

Gravity does pull on everything equally, sorta.

But all that tells us in this context is that gravity will pull on a short, small **** the same as it pulls on a large **** as both come over their arc, and begin to fall towards the frizzen. In small locks, its difficult to notice( or improve upon as Lock speed), because there is Not much distance to cover between the top of the arc, and the face of the frizzen. In large, musket sized locks, Every little bit of tuning helps to speed ignition, and we can see the difference with time lapse photographs.

Going back to my weight on a string analogy: If you length the string, so that the weight is further from the center, you can feel the affect of gravity easier, than if you shorten the string to only a couple of inches long. On a flintlock, these changes in speed are not readily observed by the human eye, or ear. With better measuring equipment, we know that these change are measured in milliseconds. Once change in a lock is not going to make much of a difference in how that locks " Shoots". However, several changes in the lock can improve the performance by accumulation of a bit of time here, a bit of time, there.

Polish the burrs off all moving parts, and you save some lock time.

Reduce bearing surfaces of moving parts against the lock plate, and you save lock time( increase speed.)

Reduce spring tension on the Frizzen, and polish the bearing surfaces on the upper arm of the spring, and the Cam, and you speed up getting that frizzen out of the way, so that the **** throws sparks down into the pan. You speed ignition.

Adjust the height of the flint so that your Point of Impact is 2/3 up from the heel of the frizzen, at a 60 degree downward angle, and you improve ignition, by speeding the creation of sparks.

Reduce the tension on the mainspring so you don't smash the flint, any you save flints, and stop rattling the action and your rear sight, giving you greater accuracy. It also reduces wear on the tumbler's full ****, the sear nose, and on the mainspring itself.

Change the shape of the end of the mainspring ( V-spring) so that it has a "wrist", and you increase the speed that the **** and tumbler turn after the **** comes over the top of the arc. Yes, an underhammer flintlock would see gravity slow the movement of the **** as it rise up, against the pull of gravity. But, in such a lock, gravity will help speed the lock as it " climbs" the arc, at the beginning of its movement when the tumbler is released by the sear, so that the actual, total, travel time will not be different enough to worry about. :thumbsup:
 
You said "Use whatever works for you". Well I'm going to commit the ultimate sacrilege here. I don't use leather, or lead. I've never been able to reliably keep the flint in the **** with either. Long before I ever got on the forums to see the discussions of which is better, I discovered something that seems to work, all the time, every time. At least it does for me.

I've always been one of those people that try all kinds of different ways doing things. I hear all the time from people, I've never seen anyone do it that way, but it sure seems to work for you!
I know the traditionalists are gonna howl bloody murder, and there are gonna be OMG's all over the place.

I use a doubled up layer of emery cloth. Wrap it around the flint. Put it in the clamp, tighten it up, and forget about it. I've NEVER had one come loose again, and never had to retighten it.

So,, let the howls and OMG's begin..I have a thick skin... :blah: :rotf:
 
lakota said:
I have a really dumb question-when putting leather on the flint it it best to put the smooth side or the rough side against the flint?


Its just padding to give a better grip on the flint.
I have used braintan scraps or modern tan. I use modern tan with the grain toward the jaws, Don't know why?

Dan
 
It still doesn’t matter to me what you use. The fact of the matter is, that flat flints with parallel surfaces work best. Mine don't come loose with leather either and I bet you would see the same thing.
 
it might be because you were using an extruded lead sheet... the lead work hardens, its better to find a piece of extremely soft sheet, eventually, after some shots, the soft lead will adjust to the placement of the flint.
 
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