Lin-Speed Gunstock Finish

[mountain-man740]

Getting close to the staining & finishing of 1st build. Will most likely use Aquaforts & wanted info on Lin-Speed. How resistant is it to moisture? I hunt in damp snowy weather.

 

[rafterob]

You will need to wax it after the Lin-speed. The speed part indicates it has drying agents to quicken the drying time between coats. Use any furniture grade paste wax.

 

[hoochiepapa]

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but did you see Jerry Huddleston's posts and pics under "aquafortis?". I been useing aquafortis on my builds, but you ought to take a look at Jerry's results. Unless you want to be PC.... :idunno:

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I have used Alcohol based leather dyes and stains and they are great for creating a certain color by mixing.

Jim Kibler has done some testing and has found them all to fade out some though.

Nothing brings out the wood like the nitric.

I personally find the leather dyes like Fiebings to be better than some of the marketed gunstock stains.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I don't think any Oil finish is water PROOF, including Linspeed. I stopped using that finish in favor of Birchwood/Casey Gunstock oil finish. Its thinner, rubs into the wood pores easier, and has a longer working time, IMHO.

If you want any stock to be somewhat water proof, put finish on ALL end grain, and in all mortises you cut for ANYTHING.[Buttplate, capbox, tang, barrel, muzzle cap, hangers, thimbles, entry pipe, trigger guard and lock. ] Then give the finished stock a few coats of a good furniture or "antique" wax, before going out in the " Wet". The same wax on the metal parts will help stop rust from occurring in the field. :thumbsup:

 

[Supercracker]

The same wax on the metal parts will help stop rust from occurring in the field. :thumbsup:

We used to Turtle Wax our M16s and we took them into the surf. They came out fine. So that tip works!