Linen Thread for sewing leather

[chriskletke]

Where's a good place online to purchase non waxed linen thread to sew leather hunting pouches togethor?? I've the leather and tools to sew them just need to get the linen thread to put it all togethor so any insite as to where I may purchase this would be greatly appreciated.


Chris

 

[bob1961]

wal-mart has hemp jewelery cord that i used to make my first bag with..........bob

 

[Raynor]

Any store that sells beads and crafts should have linen thread. Get mine at Wal-Mart, it's right in the bead and craft section. Usually 25 yard package is $1.50

 

[Wayne Combs]

Chris,
You might want to get you some beeswax to wax that thread especially sewing leather.It needs to be waxed to keep the thread from wearing while you stitch.Just my two pence.Wayne.

 

[Norskie]

Try[url] zackwhite.com[/url] They sell to the general public.

 

[crockett]

Why non-wax? Wax is PC and it strengthens the thread and prevents its abrasion in stitching.

 

[Norskie]

You wax the linen thread after you lock it on to the needles. It's easier that way, and unwaxed is available in larger quantities. Why should I pay for someone to wax my thread when I do a better job myself. Besides which I often use 'black wax' which has pine pitch blended in.
I don't know anybody that sews with unwaxes thread.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

You wax the linen thread after you lock it on to the needles. It's easier that way, and unwaxed is available in larger quantities. Why should I pay for someone to wax my thread when I do a better job myself. Besides which I often use 'black wax' which has pine pitch blended in.

Hi Leathermoose,

So what's the advanatager of using black wax, besides possibly the color? Is there an advantage to the pine pitch blended in with the beeswax? If so where can you get it?

Regarding the cost of waxed vs. unwaxed, although the unwaxed may be cheaper because it's available in larger quantities, $1.76 (or whatever today's price is at Wallyworld) is pretty good deal for the small quantity needed for a couple of simple projects. I've only seen the unwaxed available in the big spools, typically $20-$30 or more. Are smaller quantities available?

Thanks for your help!

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

 

[Norskie]

I make my own black wax. You can melt the pitch and wax together, or just knead them. That's messier, but less chance of burning yourself.
The advantage of black wax is that it holds the stitches very well by being slightly sticky. At the end of a stitch row I go back 2 stitches and have never had any pull out. Some have claimed black wax gives a more waterproof stitch than plain beeswax, but I have no opinion on that.
As for the color, a lump of the stuff is indeed black, but the thread will be only slightly darkened, sort of beige.
I've bought smaller quantities of unwaxed when I first started stitching, but you had to hunt for them. They may not be offered anymore. I didn't see any at Blue Heron Mercantile the last time I visited their website.
Waxed is fine to use for smaller projects, but you should keep a lump of wax around to rewax while you stitch, because it does wear off as you haul the thread through the holes.
Have fun stitching!

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

One thing LeatherMoose forgot to mention in his excellent description above is that if the stitching should wear through and fail at some point the pitch/wax will be less likely to loosen and allow the seam to fail. due to the stickiness of the pitch - it acts as an adhesive holding the thread to itself and the leather - good stuff.

 

[crockett]

Sorry, I made myself misunderstood- I thought the idea was no wax at all. I too wax my thread after starting, in fact if the thread is very long and the stitching tough on the thread- I sometimes re-wax half way through the project.

 

[Marko]

Howdy all.....Marko Warren here. I am the Master leather worker at the Colonial Spanish Qtr. in Saint Augustine,FL.... I use beeswax on my thread for a couple of reasons> It stiffens the thread so as to sidestep knotting when using long pieces of thread. It waterproofs the thread a bit and it helps the thread slide thru your awl holes a bit easier too.
cheers
Marko

 

[CrackStock]

Marko,

How do you wax it? I have dragged my twine across dry and cold beeswax and I have warmed it to get it into the thread, but none seems all that effective. I was thinking of mixing with something to soften such as olive oil.

I am not displeased with the resilts, but am always looking to learn.

CS

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

Just pull it through (over) the ball of wax, that is all that you need to do. Room temperature wax is what is used and do it two or three times, more if you like. You can rewax as you go.

 

[Holley]

Make sure you are using Beezwax. Many balls and bars you get are more a mixture of candle wax than the Beezzzzz. If the mixture is cut more than 30 to 50%, it is flakey and does not adhear to the material waxed. And you do need to warm it up a bit to work. I just did some cold weather beading and had to put my wax under my arm to get it warmed up to work...and I use nearly 100% beez wax. Just a little tip from a beader of 50 years. :applause:

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

And you do need to warm it up a bit to work. I just did some cold weather beading and had to put my wax under my arm to get it warmed up to work...and I use nearly 100% beez wax. Just a little tip from a beader of 50 years.

Beading must be very different from actual sewing so I will not disagree with your thoughts, however, unless the wax is frozen solid, it heats up as the thread is drawn over it and the pure beeswax coats the thread very nicely. You are correct that wax of body temperature does work more easily but even cold wax will do the job quite well if worked properly.

 

[Holley]

There is very little difference between beadwork and sewing anything together. When it is cold outside, it takes a while to get the thread coated with wax as you must draw the wax across the thread several times to get it to warm up. The thread is cold, the wax is cold, my hands are cold and the material to get worked on is cold. So I move inside my warm tipi. :blah:

 

[Norskie]

You don't need a lot of wax on the cord. Here's how you know when you have enough. Unwaxed linen cord is fairly limp. When you draw it over your block of beeswax, it will stiffen up. If you can hold a few inches of it horizontally without it drooping, that's enough.
Also, as you stitch and wear the wax off, just rewax.

 

[CrackStock]

Thanks guys. My current leather and wax do not seem to get a good combination, so I was thinking of ways to get more wax. This linen is already fairly stiff, so that was not the goal. I was doing cartridge boxes, so I was thinking that more wax might give some greater protection, but maybe I should just continue to wax the seams after.

CS

 

[Norskie]

The stiffness of the thread is not a goal, but rather an indicator of when you have enough wax for stitching purposes. Go ahead and wax your stitch line after. If I want a real water resistant seam I will sometimes melt beeswax into the stitch line.